My Capacitor comparisons: Mundorfs, VCap, Sonicap Platinum, Auricap, etc

oncle_tom · « **Reply #680 on:** 13 Oct 2012, 08:29 am »

How to bypass Caps?
Is there any (mathematical) rule?
In which way to you do it?

Thanks,
Peter

andyr · « **Reply #681 on:** 13 Oct 2012, 11:11 am »

AIUI - for PS caps from DC rail to ground - you use a value which is nominally 1/100th of the original value ... then 1/100th again.

So if you had a 1,000uF electrolytic, you would add 10uF and 100nF film caps.

Regards,

Andy

bardamu · « **Reply #682 on:** 21 Oct 2012, 12:07 pm »

Hello Peter and the rest,
A few days i did receive a parcel with Russian caps. Especially the k75-10 make the typical audiophile caps like entry level components. I did figure out how to use my Russian scope from the cold war days. I mean i did find out how to find the outer foil after making some pairs to use in my crossover. Most of the outer foils were on the side where the wring on the caps begins but with some caps it was on the other side.
Now i am burning them in by applying a 22 volts tension and a 900 milliampere current flowing by means of a big bleeder.
I think that in the crossover they will take long time to break in because they are in seies with the tweeter. I will leave them with this current for a few days. I expect replacing the caps will take some time because they are much bigger than the original ones.. I will report once they are in.
Maybe later i will add a small teflon cap like 40 or 50nf. Sometimes adding different caps will make the sound less coherent.
Sincere greetings, Edward

DaveC113 · « **Reply #683 on:** 27 Oct 2012, 02:36 am »

I just won some new Feastrex Urushi capacitors and am trying them out next to RelCap PCU copper foil caps ($113 ea) as the output caps in my Aikido preamp, which just happens to have 2 outputs... I currently have the Feastrex caps in one and the RelCaps in the other, both are .47 uF.

http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/feastrex/220954-rmaf-2012-free-urushi-caps.html

TrungT · « **Reply #684 on:** 27 Oct 2012, 02:53 am »

Congratulation Dave.

Please keep us posted.

oncle_tom · « **Reply #685 on:** 19 Dec 2012, 07:22 am »

Quote from: TrungT on 27 Oct 2012, 02:53 am

Congratulation Dave.

Please keep us posted.

Please let us know...

Peter

DaveC113 · « **Reply #686 on:** 19 Dec 2012, 03:38 pm »

I have done a more thorough comparison, and it is close. The RelCaps are copper foil and are a touch warmer with a little more harmonic texture. The Urushis are very clear and neutral. I could live with either happily and I believe there are more differences than one being clearly better. In my system I have a slight preference for the RelCaps, but they are also 2x the price and only rated to 400V.

I think these are great coupling caps for the price and I'm sure they will be very popular after more folks get to try them out and word spreads. The .47 uF 1000V caps are about $60 ea.

rpf · « **Reply #687 on:** 12 Jan 2013, 11:04 pm »

Has anyone heard anything about the new Mundorf Evo line?

Especially the Evo Silver/Gold/Oil?

http://www.hificollective.co.uk/components/mcap_evo_sgo.html

They are a bit taller but a lot shorter than many other similarly rated caps. Supposedly the next step down from the Supreme line but significantly less expensive.

bluemike · « **Reply #688 on:** 12 Jan 2013, 11:28 pm »

fwiw I really like the clarity cap MR
They do many things right in my opinion

jsq · « **Reply #689 on:** 26 Jan 2013, 09:00 pm »

Hello
Has anyone used the auricap xo caps. I am thinking about using them in my amp but space is real tight and all the real premium stuff is just too big. The auricap xo is the right size to change out the 1.0 mF 250v wima that's in there now. Cheers!

DaveC113 · « **Reply #690 on:** 27 Jan 2013, 05:30 am »

Quote from: jsq on 26 Jan 2013, 09:00 pm

Hello
Has anyone used the auricap xo caps. I am thinking about using them in my amp but space is real tight and all the real premium stuff is just too big. The auricap xo is the right size to change out the 1.0 mF 250v wima that's in there now. Cheers!

Check out the Clarity ESA series, they have a lower voltage model that's A LOT smaller than most other botique caps and the price is good too. I have not used auricaps but have been really happy with 2 different Clarity Caps I've tried.

WireNut · « **Reply #691 on:** 27 Jan 2013, 08:14 am »

Quote from: jsq on 26 Jan 2013, 09:00 pm

Hello
Has anyone used the auricap xo caps. I am thinking about using them in my amp but space is real tight and all the real premium stuff is just too big. The auricap xo is the right size to change out the 1.0 mF 250v wima that's in there now. Cheers!

The V-cap OIMP's are also small in size which may fit your space.
As well as Sonicap's and AudioCap Theta's.

jsq · « **Reply #692 on:** 28 Jan 2013, 01:26 am »

Thanks Guys for the suggestions. I just might be able to get the V-cap oimp to fit . I'm tired of the overly sterile sound afforded to my amp that some people believe could be the WIMA mkp. It has good detail and extension but no emotion. There has been a mix of review material on the web, but some people swear by them as well and they're a better price than the tftf v-cap.

Jon L · « **Reply #693 on:** 28 Jan 2013, 08:04 pm »

Quote from: jsq on 28 Jan 2013, 01:26 am

Thanks Guys for the suggestions. I just might be able to get the V-cap oimp to fit . I'm tired of the overly sterile sound afforded to my amp that some people believe could be the WIMA mkp. It has good detail and extension but no emotion. There has been a mix of review material on the web, but some people swear by them as well and they're a better price than the tftf v-cap.

If you don't like the WIMA sound, the Russian military K75-10 paper/mylar in oil cap may be worth tryng as well. It's a unique-sounding cap, very non-sterile yet detailed, and cheap.

jsq · « **Reply #694 on:** 29 Jan 2013, 06:42 am »

thanks again!

jsq · « **Reply #695 on:** 1 Feb 2013, 08:23 pm »

I installed a 0.01 mF cutf v-cap in bypass configuration for each of 2- 3.3 mF mundorf silver/oil and also for 2 Dueland Alexander .47 mF caps. Right off the bat it was an instant increase in resolution and more than that the midrange became so solid and fleshed out that it just makes you melt. It was great before, but it exceeds my expectations even before it is broken in. I know I will have to deal with some growing pains before it finally reaches its potential , but I am enjoying the ride. I am really glad that I began reading this forum. cheers!!

underdawg · « **Reply #696 on:** 1 Feb 2013, 08:27 pm »

caps can make a difference

madisonears · « **Reply #697 on:** 2 Feb 2013, 07:57 pm »

Thanks for the report. To me, bypassing Mundorf SIO and Duelund Alexander seems like gilding the lily. I have never been satisfied with bypassing caps at line level. I know it can be done, but it usually takes a lot of trial and error to get the right combination. Putting two beautiful caps together does not automatically yield twice the beauty. In fact, I have found Mundorf caps in general to be the worst candidates for combining with other caps. The SIO by itself is superb, perhaps the best, at resolving high and mid frequencies with depth and natural tone. Putting any other cap in parallel seemed to disrupt the highs with something like an echo.

I have to be a bit skeptical about the trial instantly providing such spectacular results. Most teflon caps, especially the CuTf V-cap, are notorious for taking forever to break in, and some don't sound very good at all for the first few hours. You don't say what the application is, but I assume it's line level in the preamp you mentioned above. With such a low level signal, I would expect at least hundreds of hours before these caps revealed their true nature and their resplendent qualities.

Besides, putting a .01uF cap, no matter how good, in parallel with 3.3uF is probably not going to yield such spectacular results. It is only one three-hundred-thirtieth of the total capacitance, and I just don't see that making a world of difference.

I appreciate the fact that you just dropped a ton of money on a couple of pretty expensive caps that are very highly regarded. Are you certain your perception is not influeneced by that fact? Please spend a few days or even weeks evaluating the sound, and consider coming back after that to kindly share your impressions with us again. Subjectivity does require at least a modicum of objectivity to be valid.

Peace,
Tom E

jsq · « **Reply #698 on:** 12 Feb 2013, 06:00 pm »

I understand that this might sound like I'm getting ahead of myself. I was fully prepared to wait patiently while the system trudges along the path to stabilization. It sounded veiled and dark for about 45 minutes and something clicked and it began to open up. the silver oils had 250 hrs on them when I put the the v-caps in. It has not stabilized yet. there is occasional roughness on leading edges and slight graininess here and there but there is so much more there than before. It is so lit up compared to even before I had just the sio's. And the sio's and alexanders were a monolithic improvement over stock. My wife sits with me for 2 hours asking me to put on music she likes. My kids remark to me how good it sounds in passing. Something that has never happened before. I am using analysis audio epsilons for speakers with 2 tannoy 10" subs. The speakers use a 36" ribbon tweeter and a planar bass panel. I have actually spent allot more money changing out components with a much smaller improvement. I am just so glad that the break-in has been so easy to live with. I will check back in about a month once things have fully settled in. thanks for all of your insight!

dimkasta · « **Reply #699 on:** 21 Feb 2013, 09:38 am »

What made me write here was post #387 http://www.audiocircle.com/index.php?topic=54218.msg659151#msg659151

Basically I am experimenting with coupling caps and led bypass caps for my DCB1

Currently I am using Mundorf Supremes at 2.2uF (non oil, non silver, just plain black ones) and while I am very happy with them, things some times feel a bit lifeless. I really miss that bitey "center of earth" middle that Jon L described so nicely on the post about KT75s. Plus I really want some more sparkle on the highs. And since my speakers are also more on the clinical side, I decided to give the Russians a try. (amp is 220k input, so 2.2uF is not a prob for lows)
For the led bypass I currently use red 0.1uF WIMAs.

I have ordered some KT75s at 2.2uF and some FT3s at 0.1uF and 0.22uF. I intent on using one KT75 bypassed by a 0.1uF FT3 for coupling and a single 0.1uF FT3 to replace the Wima.

Any thoughts?

Thanks again for an awesome thread