[SP Cabmaker]

Well here they are, the first pair of customTimepiece Mini\3.0 stands!!! aa
 

These stands are available directly through me.  They will come in the same hardwoods that the Mini’s are offered in, as well as all black with a copper colored reveal instead of the black that the hardwood models have.  Custom hardwood and or veneers as well as a copper SP Tech logo inlay in the front of column are available at an up charge.  I don’t have final pricing on these yet because I am waiting for pricing from the hardwood vendors.  I have to tell you, wood isn’t cheap!! Especially in small relatively small quantities.  The stands are approximately 29 inches tall (depends on which feet you use), comes with both rubber feet and a nice set of points.  There is also a hole in the top of the column so that you can fill the column with sand for even more stability and dampening.  However, I found this to be totally unnecessary with the mini’s.  These stands are just plain gorgeous with the mini. The stand in the picture has a black lacquer top and base but, the production stands will have the same textured black finish that the “older” model Revelation’s have.  It is a much tougher material and less prone to scratches.  I will be designing stands for the continuum models as well as matching component stands also!!  You guys are in for a treat!!!!   Anyone interested…..wait …. I mean SERIOUSLY interested in buying stands, please email me with quantity and species info.  That way I will know how much and what species of hardwood I need to order. 

Tim

[mgalusha]

Beautiful work!

[Albireo]

Oh, gorgeous! Can you put in WilsonArt black sides on the column to match normally-configured Minis?

And stupid question: what wood is in the Mini pictured?

[zybar]

Very nicely done!!   

George

[Zero]

Fantastic !!   

[Christof]

Oh, gorgeous! Can you put in WilsonArt black sides on the column to match normally-configured Minis?

And stupid question: what wood is in the Mini pictured?

Looks like Black Cherry to me.

Nice work, Tim

[mcullinan]

Sweet! They look so nice, can you stack some Continuums 2.5 on top.
 
Mike

[konut]

Absolutely stunning heirloom grade cabinetry! THIS is gonna COST me!

[SP Cabmaker]

Thank for the compliments fellas. Yes, the mini's pictured are in cherry.  Wait till you see the component rack that will go with these stands.  aa All I can say is you better start saving your "cheddar" now  otherwise you may be singing the blues later. 

[mcullinan]

Really you are an incredible addition to a team Dad son of passionate music lovers. Great work!
Mike

[pbrstreetgang]

Im not able to see anything

[low.pfile]

Im not able to see anything (picture)

PBRS: maybe your current connection/network/browser setting's is blocking images from photobucket.com?
the 2 images are hosted there.


SPCabinetmaker....Very Beautiful stands for the SPs from what I see in the images. Agree that the glossy black bases will get mucked up quickly.

[SP Cabmaker]

Thanks, I agree, that's why I am going with the textured black.  Some people think the textured finish is a pain to clean but, I recommend using Minwax Wood Cleaner with a lintfree microfiber cloth.  As a matter of fact you should use the Minwax Wood Cleaner to clean and dust your speaker cabinets also.  It is what the manufacturer of the finish used on all the SP Tech stuff recommends to clean it.  Besides that, I've done my own test and not only does this stuff not leave any residue or film but, also won't cause problems in the event the finish needs touching up!!  I have been in the woodworking business over 28 years and once I found out about the Minwax Wood Cleaner, it's the only thing I use on finished woodwork in my house.  Feel free to pass on this info.

[Russell Dawkins]

Very nice work, indeed. 

I particularly like the way the bevel on the underside of the top plate aligns with the bevel on the bottom edges of the box. That looks so much better and more custom than the usual approach of making the top plate the same size as the width and depth of the speaker. Good design solution!

Too bad you can't use a single piece for the front baffle or at least for the width of the waveguide mouth, with the rest of the required width made up of equal width pieces, left and right. In other words, have joins between front boards equal distances from the centerline down the front, if you follow.

I think a contrasting piece could also work for the baffle - whether it's cast in marble-like material or darker wood or even painted  in that truck bed liner paint like my Timepieces. I happen to like the look of the front of mine, and they don't show smudges like high gloss finishes do.

[Double Ugly]

Absolutely gorgeous work, Tim.  Well worth the wait. 

I happen to like the look of the front of mine, and they don't show smudges like high gloss finishes do.

Absolutely.  I also agree with your take on the bevel; very nice touch!

To build on another of Russell's comments, I'm interested in your take on the practicality of using a single piece of well-seasoned hardwood for the entire front baffle, Tim.  Personally, I like the idea of having two unmatched front baffles, meaning each would stand on its own merit as beautiful but distinctive pieces of woodworking art.

Assuming it's an option (big assumption, I know), I realize I'd have to find my own wood, and then run it by you for approval prior to purchase.  A professional cabinetmaker once told me it isn't a problem so long as the wood is suited to the task (properly seasoned, a species less prone to expansion/constriction, etc.), but what he said is no longer relevant.  All that matters now is what *you* think.

So what's the poop, Tim - is it doable, or are the associated obstacles too much to overcome?

Thanks. 

[SP Cabmaker]

DU, it can definitely be done, especially in the case of the mini, since the front baffle is only 9.5 inches wide.  There were several reasons why this wasn't done.

1. Cost - Boards wide enough would come at a premium and would be a lot harder to find in quantity, depending on species.

2. Stability - As you probably know, glued up panels are more stable,dimensionally and less likely to be warped. (even though we did have a few, but  they weren't too bad).  Remember, the boards are machined on a CNC and have to be flat.
 
3. The most stable solid board for the baffle would need to be a quartersawn board.  A wasteful way of cutting the tree yielding narrower board.  In "most" woods this type of cut shows less grain "character".

Maybe in the future, if we deside to invest in the equipment needed to mill and surface our own lumber, we would be able to do it at a reasonable cost.  At this point, finding a good and steady supply of suitable wood would be difficult, to say the least.  Of coarse, those who are willing to wait and pay the price, we will be more than happy to build them for them.

[satfrat]

Hi Tim,
Beautiful wood stand, you just don't find them like this anymore,,, damn shame. Would you mind sharing the post dimensions and the top/bottom base dimensions along with the cone thread size & cone diameter size that would comfortably fit(1"-1.5")? Specifically I've been looking for an oak rear center channel speaker stand for my Usher x-616 center speaker and I would be looking for a custom 11" x 20" top base. 28"H stand would work if I could possibly use a 2" Audiopoint with a 1/4-20 thread & 1.25 flange diameter.

The minute I saw this stand I was thinking to myself that this might just be what I've been looking for to replace an oak stool I've settled for. 

Cheers,
Robin

[SP Cabmaker]

Hi Robin,

The dimensions of the stands are as follows.  (All measurements are in inches)

Post - 5.5W x 5.5L x 26H
Base -16W x 20L x 1.2H
Top - 8W x 11L x .75H

The set of audio points that are supplied with the stands are 1.25in. diameter at the base and 1.5in. tall.  They have a 1/4 X 20 threaded post.  The bottom of the base has a hole in each corner, with has a 1/4 X 20 tee nut already embedded in the base.  Is the center channel speaker you want to use the stand for, in a natural oak finish? Is it red or white oak?  I can make the dimensions of the top whatever you need them to be.  Let me know if you have any other questions.

Tim

[satfrat]

Hi Robin,

The dimensions of the stands are as follows.  (All measurements are in inches)

Post - 5.5W x 5.5L x 26H
Base -16W x 20L x 1.2H
Top - 8W x 11L x .75H

The set of audio points that are supplied with the stands are 1.25in. diameter at the base and 1.5in. tall.  They have a 1/4 X 20 threaded post.  The bottom of the base has a hole in each corner, with has a 1/4 X 20 tee nut already embedded in the base.  Is the center channel speaker you want to use the stand for, in a natural oak finish? Is it red or white oak?  I can make the dimensions of the top whatever you need them to be.  Let me know if you have any other questions.

Tim

Wow,,,, sounds close to what I'm looking for except for the top base which would need to be made 20"W x 11"D so to fit an Usher X-616. My whole system is a red oak finish with the birch sided Ushers being the exception. Timbernations made me up an oak center stand for my front X-616 but the back Usher needs to be higher so to match the height of my rear Odyssey Lorelei's. Am I correct in thinking you took the 1.5" audiopoints into account when you say the stands are 28" high? I was hoping a 2" Audiopoint would bring the height to 30". Even at that, I could use 32" stand to bring the tweeter height of the Usher to match that of the Lorelei's that sit on Sistrum Platforrms. Just how flexible are you on the top base and post length? Here's some pictures for ya:




Cheers,
Robin

[SP Cabmaker]

Robin, using the audio points that come with the stand will bring the height to 29.75in.  There are also four rubber "bumper" discs on the top of the stand that the speaker rests on.  They bring the height pretty close to exactly 30in.