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this sec fermentation is it also necessary for the taste? I don t mind if the beer isn't as clear as industrial beer
I love to drink beer while listening to my musics but it sounds like making your own beer for your drinkable tastes is a hard process...!!!
So 5 weeks to make it and 5 hours to drink it?
Hello Kyrill,You may want to check out http://www.brouwland.com/ for supplies. They are in Belgium but have quite an extensive selection of supplies and equipment.yes close by, i am very glad with that addressCleanliness IS the most important part of the brewing process. You must clean AND sanitize. Unfortunately there is no one step process that does both. Cleaning is the mechanical removal of soils. Sanitizing is the chemical removal of bacteria. Usually a high pH detergent is used for soil removal and low pH acid based product for sanitizing. I do not suggest iodine based sanitizers. It is very easy to use too much and the flavor will carry over into the beer.I clean with chlorine in water and then rinse with clean boiled waterBoiling the brewing liquid is a pretty important step. It will sanitize the water, drive off chlorine, and help with hop utilization, if you are using separate additions of hops. Those finished mix that you only have to add water and yeast in order to ferment, do you have to boil them too? It doesn't say so in the instructionsIn brewing from a kit, I would suggest using double the amount of extract suggested in place of using any sugar. Boil the water for 10 minutes before you add the extract. Take the kettle off the heat and slowly add in extract. Return the kettle to heat and boil for about 30 minutes more.Liquid yeast is a good thing but very good beer can be made from dried yeast. The important step is to make a yeast starter a couple of days before actual brew day. That way you will give your yeast a chance to "wake-up" and start eating away at the sugars and increase the cell count. I seeAfter primary fermentation is finished, roughly 7-10 days, it is a very good thing to move the beer off of the spent yeast. As samplesj mentioned, the yeast will start to autolyze and cause quite a few off flavors. Brr dead bodiesYou should carefully siphon the beer off of the settled yeast. A 1/4" diameter food grade plastic hose can be used, after making sure both the hose and secondary fermenter and both cleaned and sanitized. I bought one, an automatic oneA glass carboy is often used of secondary fermentation. After letting the beer age in secondary for another week or two, you can then bottle or keg. Ok so fermentation totals at least 3 weeks..Batch priming is a good way to assure consistent bottle carbonation. "Batch priming"? Boil up some malt extract and water. Add it to another container, your cleaned and sanitized primary fermenter would work well, and transfer you beer into the container, taking great care NOT to splash or otherwise aerate the beer. Once everything is transferred, you can then go about the fun process of filling cleaned and sanitized bottles.Is this batch priming? Fermented beer into bottles with this extra malt and water? are there still alive yeast cells to transform the malt?There are lots of little pieces of gear that can help make brewing easier for the homebrewer. The biggest help to me was getting a 10 gallon kettle to do a full wort boil. A wort chiller was also a big help to rapidly drop the boiling wort down to a temperature where you can add the yeast without killing it.Enjoy the brewing hobby. It won't save you much money over what you can buy pre-made, but you will be able to make beer the way YOU like.haha the beer i like is very expensive. Dutch tax on alcohol is hideous I have been brewing on both home and pro levels for over 25 years. It is a LOT of fun and a great way to create a unique product that reflects your own taste.Cheers, thxWayne Kyrill
Hi WayneA few questionsQuote from: Wayne1 on 14 Feb 2008, 08:24 pmHello Kyrill,Cleanliness IS the most important part of the brewing process. You must clean AND sanitize. Unfortunately there is no one step process that does both. Cleaning is the mechanical removal of soils. Sanitizing is the chemical removal of bacteria. Usually a high pH detergent is used for soil removal and low pH acid based product for sanitizing. I do not suggest iodine based sanitizers. It is very easy to use too much and the flavor will carry over into the beer.I clean with chlorine in water and then rinse with clean boiled waterChlorine does not clean. It does sanitize. Caustic soda is the default cleaning agent in most breweries. It is on the nasty side to use at home. There are non-caustic cleaners on the market today. Better for safety and the environment. Acid sanitizers are nice because you do not have to rinse. There is NO flavor transfer as with chlorine or iodine. No need to rinse will keep the possibility of re-contamination low.Boiling the brewing liquid is a pretty important step. It will sanitize the water, drive off chlorine, and help with hop utilization, if you are using separate additions of hops. Those finished mix that you only have to add water and yeast in order to ferment, do you have to boil them too? It doesn't say so in the instructionsI would suggest boiling the water and mix together. bring the water to a boil. Take it off the heat. Add the mix. Bring it back to a boil. Let it boil for about 10 minutes. Then you will have to cool the liquid down before you add the yeast. Cover the pot and stick it in a snow bank. You can also use a water bath. Put the pot in a sink and run cold water into the sink to cool the pot. You may have to do this a few time to drop the temp down. Do not add the yeast until the temp is below 27 C. High temps could kill the yeast. Fermenting between 16 C and 21 C would be fine.In brewing from a kit, I would suggest using double the amount of extract suggested in place of using any sugar. Boil the water for 10 minutes before you add the extract. Take the kettle off the heat and slowly add in extract. Return the kettle to heat and boil for about 30 minutes more.Liquid yeast is a good thing but very good beer can be made from dried yeast. The important step is to make a yeast starter a couple of days before actual brew day. That way you will give your yeast a chance to "wake-up" and start eating away at the sugars and increase the cell count. I seeAfter primary fermentation is finished, roughly 7-10 days, it is a very good thing to move the beer off of the spent yeast. As samplesj mentioned, the yeast will start to autolyze and cause quite a few off flavors. Brr dead bodiesYou should carefully siphon the beer off of the settled yeast. A 1/4" diameter food grade plastic hose can be used, after making sure both the hose and secondary fermenter and both cleaned and sanitized. I bought one, an automatic oneA glass carboy is often used of secondary fermentation. After letting the beer age in secondary for another week or two, you can then bottle or keg. Ok so fermentation totals at least 3 weeks..How long will actually depend on the temperature you ferment at ( colder will take longer) and how much sugar is in the beer for the yeasts to eat. Higher sugar content (higher alcohol) will take longer. You should check the specific gravity every day after two weeks. If you do not see a change after two days, the beer is done.I do suggest you invest in two measuring instruments. A good thermometer and a hydrometer. The hydrometer measures the specific gravity and is very useful in keeping track of original gravity and final gravity. With those two numbers, you can easily determine the alcohol content of your beer. Then you can keep records and determine how much malt you need in your system to get the kind of beer you like.Batch priming is a good way to assure consistent bottle carbonation. "Batch priming"? Boil up some malt extract and water. Add it to another container, your cleaned and sanitized primary fermenter would work well, and transfer you beer into the container, taking great care NOT to splash or otherwise aerate the beer. Once everything is transferred, you can then go about the fun process of filling cleaned and sanitized bottles.Is this batch priming? Fermented beer into bottles with this extra malt and water? are there still alive yeast cells to transform the malt?That is batch priming. If you bottle, the alternative method was to add small amounts of sugar to each bottle. The results would vary greatly. Some bottles would be "gushers". Others would be flat. There is almost always yeast active in most beer. You would have to Pasteurize the bottled beer to kill off the yeast. Sterile filtering down to 0.5 micron will remove most of the yeast. But some do slip through.You can bottle carbonated beer. It is a bit more challenging that filling bottles with still beer and letting it "bottle condition". More advanced home brewers use stainless steel tanks (surplus from the draft soda industry) and CO2 to force carbonate. Brewpubs and larger breweries also use this method. They force CO2 into a tank through a sintered stainless steel "stone" to put the bubbles in. There beer should be chilled down quite a bit to better absorb the CO2.There are lots of little pieces of gear that can help make brewing easier for the homebrewer. The biggest help to me was getting a 10 gallon kettle to do a full wort boil. A wort chiller was also a big help to rapidly drop the boiling wort down to a temperature where you can add the yeast without killing it.Enjoy the brewing hobby. It won't save you much money over what you can buy pre-made, but you will be able to make beer the way YOU like.haha the beer i like is very expensive. Dutch tax on alcohol is hideous I have been brewing on both home and pro levels for over 25 years. It is a LOT of fun and a great way to create a unique product that reflects your own taste.Cheers, thxWayne Kyrill
Hello Kyrill,Cleanliness IS the most important part of the brewing process. You must clean AND sanitize. Unfortunately there is no one step process that does both. Cleaning is the mechanical removal of soils. Sanitizing is the chemical removal of bacteria. Usually a high pH detergent is used for soil removal and low pH acid based product for sanitizing. I do not suggest iodine based sanitizers. It is very easy to use too much and the flavor will carry over into the beer.I clean with chlorine in water and then rinse with clean boiled waterChlorine does not clean. It does sanitize. Caustic soda is the default cleaning agent in most breweries. It is on the nasty side to use at home. There are non-caustic cleaners on the market today. Better for safety and the environment. Acid sanitizers are nice because you do not have to rinse. There is NO flavor transfer as with chlorine or iodine. No need to rinse will keep the possibility of re-contamination low.Boiling the brewing liquid is a pretty important step. It will sanitize the water, drive off chlorine, and help with hop utilization, if you are using separate additions of hops. Those finished mix that you only have to add water and yeast in order to ferment, do you have to boil them too? It doesn't say so in the instructionsI would suggest boiling the water and mix together. bring the water to a boil. Take it off the heat. Add the mix. Bring it back to a boil. Let it boil for about 10 minutes. Then you will have to cool the liquid down before you add the yeast. Cover the pot and stick it in a snow bank. You can also use a water bath. Put the pot in a sink and run cold water into the sink to cool the pot. You may have to do this a few time to drop the temp down. Do not add the yeast until the temp is below 27 C. High temps could kill the yeast. Fermenting between 16 C and 21 C would be fine.In brewing from a kit, I would suggest using double the amount of extract suggested in place of using any sugar. Boil the water for 10 minutes before you add the extract. Take the kettle off the heat and slowly add in extract. Return the kettle to heat and boil for about 30 minutes more.Liquid yeast is a good thing but very good beer can be made from dried yeast. The important step is to make a yeast starter a couple of days before actual brew day. That way you will give your yeast a chance to "wake-up" and start eating away at the sugars and increase the cell count. I seeAfter primary fermentation is finished, roughly 7-10 days, it is a very good thing to move the beer off of the spent yeast. As samplesj mentioned, the yeast will start to autolyze and cause quite a few off flavors. Brr dead bodiesYou should carefully siphon the beer off of the settled yeast. A 1/4" diameter food grade plastic hose can be used, after making sure both the hose and secondary fermenter and both cleaned and sanitized. I bought one, an automatic oneA glass carboy is often used of secondary fermentation. After letting the beer age in secondary for another week or two, you can then bottle or keg. Ok so fermentation totals at least 3 weeks..How long will actually depend on the temperature you ferment at ( colder will take longer) and how much sugar is in the beer for the yeasts to eat. Higher sugar content (higher alcohol) will take longer. You should check the specific gravity every day after two weeks. If you do not see a change after two days, the beer is done.I do suggest you invest in two measuring instruments. A good thermometer and a hydrometer. The hydrometer measures the specific gravity and is very useful in keeping track of original gravity and final gravity. With those two numbers, you can easily determine the alcohol content of your beer. Then you can keep records and determine how much malt you need in your system to get the kind of beer you like.Batch priming is a good way to assure consistent bottle carbonation. "Batch priming"? Boil up some malt extract and water. Add it to another container, your cleaned and sanitized primary fermenter would work well, and transfer you beer into the container, taking great care NOT to splash or otherwise aerate the beer. Once everything is transferred, you can then go about the fun process of filling cleaned and sanitized bottles.Is this batch priming? Fermented beer into bottles with this extra malt and water? are there still alive yeast cells to transform the malt?That is batch priming. If you bottle, the alternative method was to add small amounts of sugar to each bottle. The results would vary greatly. Some bottles would be "gushers". Others would be flat. There is almost always yeast active in most beer. You would have to Pasteurize the bottled beer to kill off the yeast. Sterile filtering down to 0.5 micron will remove most of the yeast. But some do slip through.You can bottle carbonated beer. It is a bit more challenging that filling bottles with still beer and letting it "bottle condition". More advanced home brewers use stainless steel tanks (surplus from the draft soda industry) and CO2 to force carbonate. Brewpubs and larger breweries also use this method. They force CO2 into a tank through a sintered stainless steel "stone" to put the bubbles in. There beer should be chilled down quite a bit to better absorb the CO2.There are lots of little pieces of gear that can help make brewing easier for the homebrewer. The biggest help to me was getting a 10 gallon kettle to do a full wort boil. A wort chiller was also a big help to rapidly drop the boiling wort down to a temperature where you can add the yeast without killing it.Enjoy the brewing hobby. It won't save you much money over what you can buy pre-made, but you will be able to make beer the way YOU like.haha the beer i like is very expensive. Dutch tax on alcohol is hideous I have been brewing on both home and pro levels for over 25 years. It is a LOT of fun and a great way to create a unique product that reflects your own taste.Cheers, thxWayne Kyrill
