Kevin,
Bunch of questions, so I figured I should resurrect this thread!
Nice design by the way. Excellent measurements. I was a little surprised that you didn't go for the BG Neo3 for this design as well.
Or should I wait for your dipole design? 
The Kepler is very appealing at its price range though.
Anand 
Let me answer one by one.
1) When will the Kepler kit be available?
Pretty soon.... I'm still working on documentation and waiting on my inductor order to arrive. There are a couple other little-bits that I need for packaging and such that are holding up progress. I should have them ready to roll before December though.
2) Possible to try Sonic Caps instead of Erse caps? Seems quite inexpensive to try.
Not at this point, I'm going to order some from Danny to give them a try but they are missing a couple values. I may leave it to the customer if they want to tweak around with parts. I just don't have time to try everything.
3) Can you provide the Cardas Patended Binding post (just one per speaker) as an option? Its a great post.
Parts I stock are easy to substitute but I'm not going to make it an option on the web site. I've found that if I give people too many options they become frozen in their tracks. They start emailing me asking which sounds better and it just creates more friction and anxiety for the average guy buying a kit. I'd rather keep it simple and not give people the impression that I'm trying to scalp them on the upgrades and that there is somehow a magic bullet that they can buy to make the loudspeaker better.
4) I'm building the U-frame sub based on the XJ-12 driver, as you know. Do you recommend sealing the port of the Kepler, not building it with the port at all or building it with the port? I can set the active crossover to any frequency I want, its 4th order L-R at 100 Hz for now.
Yikes.... that's a loaded question. I don't recommend either. The best way to get it to match up with something that high is to get measurements. To be honest your just better with a solution that is designed to work together. Crossing over to a sub below 70-80Hz is less of an issue.
5)Or should I wait for your dipole design?
I'd feel more comfortable selling you a completely engineered design. I'm cutting wood on the bass section this week. I don't have an exact date but I'm still hoping to keep the kit around $1000/pr for all the parts, including a completely passive crossover. That is the goal but I don't have any idea what the final crossover is going to cost at this point. I'll know more in about a month.
The dipole will use the BG because making it into a dipole is easy and it works well down to the crossover point. I like domes though, guess I'm old fashion.
