[mercman]

PS Audio has been able to undercut the other American manufacturers of power line conditioners by building their stuff in China.  Hey, Apple Computer does the same thing. The PLC business has become very competitive. 

Alan, do you know anything about the Synergistic Research Power Cell?

Also, since a number of us have PS Audio Premiers ( I have 15 things plugged in-not all running at once in 2 of them), is there a way to build the PEV Custom AC to be compatible?  I guess I like the PS Audio Premier.

Thanks,

Steve

[alanmaher]

I understand the concept of the power cell.  Why?

You tell me....unplug the PS Audio gear from the wall and plug the stereo into a cheap power strip.  If you notice little to no difference, minus the cheap power strip, then I will be able to surpass the sound quality of the PPP.  I feel it is better for you to compare rather than asking me to provide a one sided opinion.  I look at it this way, if the PE series radically changed the sound quality of the PPP, then we can probably compete nicely using the PE V Pro Custom and one of our Reference power strips, assuming up pick up the surge unit later in the year.  As I explained to another client earlier, the PE V series allows for upgrades via locking power inlets.  The user will be able to add on upgrades and still use one main power cord and a single wall receptacle for the entire circuit.  The idea is to offer the dedicated circuit users a boost in performance over a single PE install.

[mercman]

You have raised some very good points Alan.  I will try what you sugggest this weekend.

I asked about the Power Cell as the company doesn't really provide a technical explanation of what it is.  I was just curious.

Thanks,

Steve

[jmichael]

Thanks for the explanation Alan!  I wasn't looking for details in how much you make in profits but all the same, I admire you for that.

For the record: At some point, I was thinking about adding a PS Audio Power Plant, just because, but I keep banging my head against the wall asking myself what for. I have heard many types of power conditioning products in my lifetime including the original Power Plant series and have never....I repeat..... never heard any component that has the someone just slapped me in the face effect that the PE series have provided me in my system(s).

[alanmaher]

Test Update:

Recently I purchased the new Benchmark Dac1 pre.  Out of the box the Dac1 pre sounds almost identical to the Dac1 USB.  The analog input is a nice touch and well designed for non-critical listening.  I use the analog input for satellite TV so it serves it's purpose for my application.  I use a Kimber silver plated USB cable for the digital input off the HTPC.  As I was saying, out of the box the Dac1 pre sounds pretty damn good, and it should give a lot of converters at this price range a good run for their money.  The Benchmark outclassed my Lavry Da-10 that I was using prior across the board, and that says a lot because I really liked my tweaked Da-10.  The tweaked Da-10 replaced my Apogee Big Ben / Rosetta 200 combo. 

Now that Jen is out of the house for the next couple of weeks I actually have some time to myself to play around with a couple of things.  Over the weekend until now I have been playing around with two different filters on the Benchmark.  The first filter is a PE prototype designed with Auricap capacitors.  The Auri version does a very nice job filling in the holes where the Benchmark needs improvement.  The Auri version also colors the sound a bit and masks over the upper mids and lower treble in ways that detail appears to be lost at the gain of lower midrange warmth and texture.  It's not a bad filter for sub $1000 components, but it doesn't offer true tonal reproduction, it basically maintains the Auri signature.  The next filter I tried was the PE V IEC.  The PE V maintains the basic signature of the PE, II, and III filters and adds texture and detail without over emphasising or causing recess at any one frequency, it still provides our traditional ruler flat sound quality.  The V provided a major boost in the Benchmarks sound quality for both USB and analog.  Every minuet detail was extracted from the input without thinning out the sound quality.  Benchmark has a nasty habit of thinning out the lower midrange in order to give the appearance of added extension and more detail in the first and second octave.  The V fleshes in this area without loosing the low end extension, detail, and slam factor.  The mids remain warm, open, and crystal clear without sounding thin.  The highs are an absolute joy to listen too, they remain extended without e hint of excessive brightness, offers superb detailed and air.  The filter does not create a false sound stage and will only allow original content to be reproduced.  Everything is reproduced from a super black background.  In all honesty, the PE V IEC added a good few thousand onto the price tag of the new Dac1 pre.  The combination is highly recommended for Benchmark users.  Now I need to compare notes at the source....more to come.


Reference System:

HTPC / Cooler Master CM Stacker Case / ASUS Crosshair Motherboard / Vista Ultimate x64 / PC Power & Cooling 1 Kilowatt PSU / AMD Athlon 64 X2 6400+ (Black Edition) / 5.5TB Western Digital Internal Storage / 7.5GB Cosair XMS2 DHX DDR / ATI 1800XT Graphic Card / DIY Water Cooled w/Danger Den Water Blocks / Quantum Symphony Internal Install / Audiopoints.  The HTPC is powered by the upcoming Studio Reference PLC Power Cable and PE V IEC.  The HTPC case rests on a twin 1" cast acrylic isolation stand tuned with 4 Cardas large Myrtle blocks and 4 Soundcare standard adhesive spikes.

Benchmark Dac1 pre / Studio Reference Power Cable / PE V IEC / Perfect Cable balanced IC's / Kimber USB / Generic RCA. 

Crown Studio Reference II Power Amplifier / 4 Soundcare Adhesive Spikes / Perfect Cable Star Quad Speaker Cables.

Bohlender Graebener 520dx Ribbon Speakers / 4 Soundcare Adhesive Spikes.

Sony KLV-52W300A LCD TV / Studio Reference PLC Powerr Cable / Perfect Cable DVI to HDMI Cable.

AM designs Custom NBT Balance Power Conditioner / Studio Reference PLC Power Cable / Quantum Symphony Pro hardwired to primary / Audiopoints.  The power conditioner rests on top of a isolation stand prototype (more info to come later in the year).  PE V Pro Custom filtering main.  A second Quantum Symphony Pro is installed in a Schroers & Schroers Focus 72 audio rack with the components.

HP/WD server/external USB storage / Studio Reference power Cable on everything / 2 Reference power strips (the Reference includes PE main filtering) / 1" cast acrylic and large Cardas isolation/resonate stands / 2 Quantum Symphony Pro.

I'm sure I left some things out but that is ok...I'll remember later.

[Paul_Bui]

Paul

Over the next couple of days check the temps of you fridge and freezer, you should notice that it is colder at the current temp and probably should be lowered...that ends the PFC portion of the lession today   Strip all filters including chokes from all circuits on Thursday and we'll sit down on the weekend and start the tuning segment.  It will probably take the house a good 24 hours to settle back before we can start tuning.

Alan,

Per your instructions all PE's and chokes have been removed from the house circuits.  The fridge did run more quietly and seemingly more efficiently.  Sorry I haven't got a device to measure temps yet.  Perhaps Home Depot, OSH, or Fry's Electronics would carry one.

Looking forward to your next lesson.

[alanmaher]

Easy test....put a gallon of ice cream in the freezer and check the hardness prior to installing the filters....next wait 24 hours and check it again and see if it's harder / more frozen after the filters stabilize 4 or 5 days later.

Anyway, let the circuit readjust over the next 24 hours and we'll begin on Saturday tuning with chokes.  What other audiophile goodies do you own?

I need a layout of your circuit panel.  Draw me an exact match of the circuit locations in the panel and outline the purpose of each circuit, including the location of all a/v components for the entire home.  I need to know which circuits are for lighting, washer/dryer, etc.

[alanmaher]

For those that are interested, this is what I'm looking for:

Circuit Panel:

Left Side                                        Right side
Breaker 1 (Lights)                            Breaker 1 Bathroom Outlet
Breaker 2 kitchen Outlets                  Breaker 2 Bedroom Lightning
Breaker 2 Living Room Outlets (A/V)    Breaker 3 Outdoor Lighting
Breaker 4 Kitchen Lighting                 Breaker 4 Bedroom Outlets (TV, son/daughter stereo system)                 
Breaker 5 Bathroom Lighting

I need to know how the circuit breakers line up in the panel.  The idea is to tune the panel the same way a circuit is tuned by using dual II, dual PE's, etc, but in order to do that it's important to know where the lighting is installed.  Does the lighting circuits have any outlets installed.  Is there any receptacle/switch combo's installed?  What type of lighting, incandescent bulbs, dimmers, flourscent lighting, the new energy bulbs (almost as bad as flourscent lighting for noise)?  This kind of info is very important.  Another important question that needs to be addressed is arcing....does any one experience popping sounds through the speakers when a light switch is turned on/off, washer machine cycles during use, CD player turns on/off or opens the tray door, etc...every little pop, tick, whatever is important to isolate and hopefully correct.

[alanmaher]

Tuning With Chokes:

Each circuit location vs. the audio circuit, type of in-wall wiring geometry, circuit breaker quality, number of duplex outlets per circuit, and even the number of staples used to rough in the wiring during construction, all play a role in the ringing quality of a circuit.  Harmonic interaction from appliances, lighting, and type of lighting also inject noise in the form of odd harmonics.  The number one culprit for noise in the home is the circuit panel.  All of the elements listed feed back to the panel and branch the noise throughout the home via the neutral and earth ground. 

The original Power Enhancer was designed to deal with this sort of problem.  Later I discovered the filter benefit was not isolated to the treated circuit and could travel freely, without harmonic loss, throughout the entire phase.  The Hammond choke provides a similar electrical interaction that can be easily heard on circuits installed on the same phase.  As I mentioned, not all circuits ring at the same frequency and some ring higher in frequency and db than others.  The choke primary function is to lower the loudest of the circuits installed on the same phase.

Getting Started:

I want everyone to take a look at their circuit panel and write down the purpose and location of each circuit.  Next, remove all filtering from the electrical service throughout the home.  Allow the electrical phase 24 hours to readjust.  Now you are ready to start playing with chokes.  Put on your favorite reference recording and sit back and get a good feel for the sound of your non-filtered home.  I suggest you repeat one song over and over for this exercise.  Now that you have your list of circuits and locations in hand, I want you to use a standard PE and plug the filter into the first circuit on your list, as a note, the stereo circuit should not be on the list for this exercise.   Allow the PE 20 minutes to set up on the circuit and take notes while listening to your selected repeated song once.  Unplug the PE and wait 15 minutes before plugging the filter into the next circuit on your list.  Repeat exercise for each circuit in the home excluding the stereo circuit.  Compare your notes, you should find that a couple circuits sound brighter and stood out more than a few of the other circuits tested.  On the brighter sounding circuits plug in a Hammond 193M, only one choke per circuit is required for this exercise. 

Allow your newly installed Hammond 193M chokes a good 72 hours to set up before testing the 193L chokes on the remaining circuits.  Some circuits will sound good with a 193L installed and others will not.  Allow each choke a good 20 to 30 minutes to set up on the circuit before taking and comparing notes on the install.

When installing the chokes on the circuits try to address noise at the source.  For instance you may find placing a choke on the kitchen circuit at the refrigerator lowers the circuit noise and also lowers the mechanical noise/vibration of the refrigerator.  The idea of circuit tuning is to lower noise but also provide power factor correction where it is needed.  PFC is where the proper form of filtering becomes tricky, because the choke might lower the mechanical noise of the refrigerator, but it might not provide power factor correction, you will have to experiment between the choke and PE to see which offers better efficiency for the refrigerator.  You will know by the internal temperature of the refrigerator and freezer.  If you notice the temp is colder at the same setting that is when you are experiencing proper power factor correction.  You might discover that both filtering methods provide PFC for the refrigerator, in that case go with the best method to lower all forms of noise including mechanical, because mechanical vibration creates added harmonics on the circuit that is fed back to the circuit panel.

I would like if everyone gave a brief write up on the sound and video quality after 2 or 3 days of allowing the chokes to set up.  I don’t expect toe tapping results, because we are trying to lower circuit ringing feed back with this exercise.  Toe tapping results will return after we start tuning with the PE.

Do we have any Shakti Stone or Audio Magic Quantum Disrupter owners in the audience?  We will cover circuit panel tweaking in my next write up.

[Paul_Bui]

Alan,

I was able to identify circuits that sound brighter (#2 - kitchen/fridge & #3 - family/AV receiver).  One 193M has been plugged into each circuit and will stay there for 72 hours before 193L's get installed into the remaining circuits (#1 - garage/sprinkler panel & #4 - living).

Thanks and looking forward to next instructions.

[alanmaher]

Tip:

Now that you have located the brighter of the circuits the next thing you will notice is that some duplex outlets on the brighter circuit will sound better than others with the choke or PE installed.  The reason has to do with location on the circuit, proper polarity, and duplex quality.  I suggest trying each choke one at a time on each circuit duplex until you locate where it sounds best installed on that particular circuit.  The effect will be audible on the stereo circuit. 

You could upgrade the duplex to a good quality brass outlet as a cheap tweak and increase the resolution provided by the choke application.  Audiophile outlets are not necessary or recommended.  The idea with this tweak is to use a outlet that sounds thin or rolled off in the bass because the choke already provides increased bass via increased inductance, the outlet could be used to dial in the correct type of bass provided by the choke application.  Brass outlets roll off the bass to increase low level resolution, articulation, and impact/foundation.  

Recommended Outlets:

Hubbell HBL-5262
Hubbell HBL-8200 non-plated (Al Porter sells non-plated 8200 and 8300 series on A-Gon)

The Hubbell HBL-5262 is excellent for the Hammond 193M choke, but not so great for the 193L.  The 193L sounds very good with the Hubbell HBL-8200 (non-plated brass) outlet.  The 193L already sounds dynamic in the bass all by itself and does not require additional help to enhance low level resolution, so it’s important to find an outlet that offers a neutral character.

Another excellent tip is to treat the a/c blades of the Hammond choke and PE with QuickSilver Gold.  The treatment takes 3 to 4 weeks to fully develop so wait until the entire house is tuned before adding this final application, but the added resolution is worth it's weight in gold.  Prepping the a/c blades is very easy...pick up some Caig ProGold 100% solution from Michael Percy Audio.  A #00 steel woolpad and a box of cotton Q-tips is required.

Cleaning procedure:

Apply a thick coat of ProGold to the a/c blade and allow it soak in for about 5 minutes.  Scrub all sides of the a/c blade with the steel wool pad.  The surface of the metal should be as slick as wet ice by the time you are finished scrubbing.  Wipe off the residue and buff the metal surface with the cotton Q-tip.  Continue until the a/c blade of the PE has a mirror finish.  You will probably apply two scrubbing applications of ProGold and 1 thin application to treat and buff the metal surface.  After the surface has a mirror shine it is important to remove most to all of the ProGold from the surface of the metal.  It is not important to apply alcohol to remove the last bit of ProGold residue, just wipe off the ProGold as part of the buffing stage as much as possible before applying QSG to the a/c blade.

[Paul_Bui]

Alan,

I begin to realize and appreciate the benefits of systematically filter tuning in the home.  Even though with only two 193M's in two non-stereo circuits downstairs, plus the removal of Hydra and Monster devides, this morning I already heard more clarity, subtly more defined bass and blacker background.  The sound isn't "to die for" yet and can use more "meat" in the mids, more extensions, more punch, but as is now it's quite a pleasure to listen to:  clear vocals, no messed up background, good stereo separation.   

Thanks for giving more tips.  I'll sure will go get some HBL5262's and HBL8200's, and ProGold.

[Phil]

Does having dedicated circuits reduce the noise generated at the circuit box?  I certainly heard a much reduced level of noise from the installation of just one dedicated circuit for audio, then noticed more improvement with two dedicated circuits (one for source and amp).  And those improvements were noticeable even with the use of a balanced power unit.

Of course the improvements brought by the PEs and chokes tells me that even with dedicated power and balanced power, noise is/was still present. 

[alanmaher]

Phil

The answer to your question is no.  Dedicated circuits cut down on the actual circuit ringing between daisy chained duplex outlets strung together, but it does zero to lower noise, hum, or circuit crosstalk.  My answer would be different if you used a dedicated wire geometry designed to lower noise like our Reference cabling, but standard in-wall wiring does nothing to lower noise.

[alanmaher]

Today I received a lot of emails about arc problems.  Arcing is caused by multiple issues, some can be easily fixed and others can be very problematic.  Arcing is usually caused by oxidation on the bare wire leads, loose duplex wire terminations, poorly designed earth ground, fluorescent lighting ballast, cheap switch contacts, loose a/c plug at the receptacle, etc. 

First off you must isolate where the arc is originating. 

Next, try to clean the a/c wiring using the ProGold 100% solution / wool pad / Q-tip method I mentioned earlier.  Buff the bare wire lead to a mirror finish and apply a thin layer of ProGold to insulate and condition the wire.  ProGold 100% solution does a good job of keeping the treated surface clean for up to 10 years. 

If cleaning the wire did not fix the problem try changing the duplex outlet or light switch with a isolated ground industrial switch or IG hospital grade duplex.  Make sure a 12ga insulated ground wire is connected to both the switch and duplex to help route the arc to earth.

If changing the switch / duplex doesn’t work try upgrading the in-wall wiring to something like our Reference cable?  The Reference is designed to choke the line and absorb this type of problem.  The Reference performance improves over long lengths.

I am confident that the Reference cabling will do the trick, but there is the one rare occasion when multiple arcs are present on various circuits, in this situation the best thing to do is to isolate your system using a medical grade isolation transformer.  A good quality bulk transformer should cost about $300 to $450 pending the options built into the transformer to lower in rush and noise reduction.  A bulk transformer can be installed in a dedicated subpanel.  Make sure you add enough room for heat loss, a good 25% to 40% extra should be added to the transformer total wattage vs. the circuit peak wattage.

What to do if the problem is created by a fluorescent light ballast?  The arc in this situation usually occurs at the switch.  If the circuit does not have an earth ground, then the best thing you can do is purchase a light switch / receptacle combo.  In this type of set up the receptacle remains live, plug a PE into the receptacle and let the PE absorb most of the arc.  The PE will require 10 to 12 days to stabilize the circuit, after that it should be able to absorb 85% to 90% of the arc created by the light kit. 
 

Tip: It is best to clean all electrical wiring using the ProGold method.  If you are not experiencing arc problems, then i suggest removing the ProGold residue from the wire lead and add a thin coat of QuickSilver Gold treatment.  This is a very inexpensive way to upgrade the wire termination and receive top notch results after a few weeks of continuous 24/7 break in.  You might find treating non-used duplex outlets and light switches with QSG also enhances audio and video playback.

[alanmaher]

Paul

The results will come, we are only just beginning, the circuit needs to adjust with every add on.  sometimes the adjustment will take 2 or 3 days and other times it will take 5 to 6 days.  Wait to we start tuning with the PE, that is when it really gets cool.  I need to address the circuit panel after the choke install.. Circuit panels are responsible for at least 50% of the noise and needs to be induced using one of a few simple methods.  I will discuss more in the next day or two.

[michaelv]

Tuning With Chokes:


Allow your newly installed Hammond 193M chokes a good 72 hours to set up before testing the 193L chokes on the remaining circuits.  Some circuits will sound good with a 193L installed and others will not.  Allow each choke a good 20 to 30 minutes to set up on the circuit before taking and comparing notes on the install.

Alan,
   If i find several circuits with  brighter sound, do i connect several 193M at the same time, or jut one 193M at a time?

thanks.

[alanmaher]

Mike...did you remove all other filtering before testing the circuit for brightness?  Did you allow the circuit a minimum of 24 hours to readjust before testing?  If several circuits offer brighter sound compared to others then I suggest to install one 193M per circuit.  It's rare to have more than 2 or 3 circuits stand out, maybe you might want to try plugging one choke in at a time and allowing it 2 or 3 days to adjust.  What is your local voltage?  sometimes 220v and 240v can be problematic, but easily controlled plugging one choke in at a time.

[alanmaher]

Circuit Panel Induced Filtering:

The circuit panel is the number one culprit in the home for amplifying noise and passing the noise to every circuit in the house to only magnify by other appliances plugged into the electrical service.  Usually this noise is heard through the stereo in the upper midrange and lower treble.  It will be heard as bright or brittle sound quality.  The fix is very easy to do and the effectiveness of the improvement can be tailored by the preferred audiophile method.

1.   The cheapest solution is to apply Stillpoints ERS to the inside of the circuit panel door.  The entire door should be covered.  The effect should be heard almost immediately within the first 30 minutes and will continue to adjust over the next several days.  Note:  Only use a single layer of material to cover the door panel.  (Tweak provided by Alan over at Stillpoints)
2.   The next solution is 1 to 3 Audio Magic Large Quantum Disrupters, pending door size, adhered to the outside of the panel door using 3M foam double stick tape.  Center the Quantum Disrupter over the main and individual circuit breakers.  If multiple Disrupters are used to cover the entire door, space each 1 inch apart from each other.  The Quantum Disrupters offers 10 times the filtering performance of the ERS treatment.  QD should not be used with ERS for this tweak.
3.   The next and best solution is the Shakti Stone.  Multiple will be used to cover the outside of the door with 1 inch spacing between each Stone.  The writing side of the Stone should face the panel door.  If the incoming service wiring and individual circuit wiring is exposed at the top or sides of the panel, I highly recommend strapping 1 Stone directly against each wire bundle using a pair of extra long zip ties.  The writing side of the Stone should press against the wire bundle.  Center the width of the Stone to the wire bundle. 

The Quantum Disrupter and Shakti Stone tweak has outperformed many $7500 plus high-end power conditioners that I have experimented with over the years.  This tweak is all about affordability and using what you might have currently lying around the house or collecting dust in the audiophile toy chest.  I do not suggest going out and spending $750 to a couple grand to upgrade the circuit panel, if you do not own either of these items, and budget is tight, I suggest at least trying the cheaper ERS alternative.

I would allow this tweak 7 to 10 days to stabilize on all circuits before starting the next tuning phase.     

[michaelv]

Mike...did you remove all other filtering before testing the circuit for brightness?  Did you allow the circuit a minimum of 24 hours to readjust before testing?  If several circuits offer brighter sound compared to others then I suggest to install one 193M per circuit.  It's rare to have more than 2 or 3 circuits stand out, maybe you might want to try plugging one choke in at a time and allowing it 2 or 3 days to adjust.  What is your local voltage?  sometimes 220v and 240v can be problematic, but easily controlled plugging one choke in at a time.

I don't have 193M yet, but i will order it before starting to tune. I think my house has 220V.

thanks.