Alan Maher's Power Enhancer

michaelv · « **Reply #540 on:** 2 Jun 2008, 03:22 pm »

Thanks, Lee.
So 5262 is 15A and 5362 is 20A. They both offer the same construction and quality. I see something starts with IG such as IG5362. This is isolated ground receptacle. Is IG receptacle better than regular one , for example IG5362 and HBL5362?

jmichael · « **Reply #541 on:** 2 Jun 2008, 08:40 pm »

Jen,

I've heard the good & the bad regarding cryo treated products. What does Alan think of these, especially cryo treated Hubbell outlets? I'm using the PS Audio Power Port and conditioners and was thinking of upgrading or regrading.

Found info on Alan's Website.

Paul_Bui · « **Reply #542 on:** 3 Jun 2008, 01:06 am »

When asked, Alan said, "I would prefer the isolated ground if you have it available." When I said I wished I had known, he said, "It's really not a big deal, all you have to do is put a dab of GE Silicone II in between the duplex yoke and the wall box. The silicone will do a fairly good job providing isolation and it will also damp the outlet ringing. The trick is to make sure the duplex screws thread has a thin coat of silicone to insulate the screw and small dab between the yoke and box. "

Along with the new batch of PE's and PE II's, the V Pro Custom keeps improving beyond the 30 day mark. Bass is devoid of fat notes, midrange is sweet yet devoid of being overwarm, highs are tastefully detailed; the sound as a whole is fast, dynamic, so clear that a nearly full body sound can be achieved at the softest level of the preamp, especially at nights.

Most duplexes in the house have been upgraded to HBL5262's, several HBL8200's, several FIM 880's. Half a dozen HBL5262's and IG5262 will arrrive soon to finish up upgrading the entire phase with this effective tweak.

Thank you Alan and Jen.

cryoparts · « **Reply #543 on:** 3 Jun 2008, 01:11 am »

You got it!

An IG receptacle is designed to be used on an isolated ground branch circuit. If you don't have an isolated ground branch circuit, an isolated ground receptacle is not needed.

Lee

Quote from: michaelv on 2 Jun 2008, 03:22 pm

Thanks, Lee.
So 5262 is 15A and 5362 is 20A. They both offer the same construction and quality. I see something starts with IG such as IG5362. This is isolated ground receptacle. Is IG receptacle better than regular one , for example IG5362 and HBL5362?

Paul_Bui · « **Reply #544 on:** 6 Jun 2008, 04:12 am »

Today I received several HBL5262's and installed them onto the circuits that still have stock duplexes. The first two installs were fine, but I was in trouble with the disposal compactor/dish washer duplex located under the sink in the kitchen. Here's what happened: I removed the stock duplex, noticing the neutral (white) wire hooked up to the upper screw while the hot wires (black for the dish washer and pink for the disposal) hooked to the upper & lower screws, respectively. The new HBL5262 went in, only change being the neutral wire now hooked to the lower screw.

Time to fire up. Lamp test showed power was on, but when I plugged in the D/W power cord, the disposal machine automatically turned on. I hit the switch located above the counter top, and the circuit breaker tripped. It kept happening, even after I changed back to the original stock duplex. Frustrated, I left the breaker off and told my wife not to use the disposal for a while.

Any thoughts or suggestions will be greatly appreciated.

JenMaher · « **Reply #545 on:** 6 Jun 2008, 08:52 am »

Paul-
The breaker trips with both receptacles installed? What kind of receptacle did you replace? Is it a standard duplex or a GFCI duplex? Without the full picture it sounds like your wires are crossed. Can you wire the duplex without the pink wire to verify the dish washer works without tripping the breaker? If that doesn't work retrace the wiring back to the switch to verify the duplex hot and neutral are wired properly.

Huck · « **Reply #546 on:** 6 Jun 2008, 12:36 pm »

.

Paul_Bui · « **Reply #547 on:** 6 Jun 2008, 07:44 pm »

Thanks Jen for the response.

The dish washer and disposal share the same duplex, D/W on the top, disposal on the bottom. When I changed duplex yesterday, I turned off the breaker for the duplex but I did not turn off the breaker for the switch which is on another circuit. Following your message I turned of both circuit today, took a look and found the pink wire on back of the switch. I hope my wrong doing was that I didn't turn off electricity on BOTH the duplex AND the switch before the installation.

What can I do to fix it now? That the pink wire on the switch means the pink wire is correctly HOT wire? This is the 1st time I deal with switches.

JenMaher · « **Reply #548 on:** 6 Jun 2008, 08:36 pm »

Two circuit breakers powering the same duplex? Look at the original duplex outlet, please excuse my electrical vocabulary, do you see a bridge connecting the top and bottom side screws? It almost sounds like the top and bottom receptacles were disconnected by breaking the bridge connection on the side. One circuit wired directly into the bottom receptacle through the wall switch and the other wired into the top, if this is the case all you have to do is break the hot side of the duplex between the top and bottom side screw. I think you said earlier that only 1 white neutral wire is connected to the duplex?

Can I also assume the switch does not turn off the dish washer?

I'm not sure what the pink wire is all about, I'm sure it was just the color available at the time, a switch simply wires the hot circuit wire in and out and on to the bottom receptacle. So in this case the pink wire, if I can picture this correctly, acts as the hot between the switch and bottom receptacle. The bridge is probably broken on the hot side to split the circuit breakers and a single neutral is used for the ground. Do you want me to verify with Alan when he calls next?

Paul_Bui · « **Reply #549 on:** 6 Jun 2008, 09:25 pm »

Jen,

You're absolutely right! I just came back from a hardware store after asking for a "special" duplex for the dishwasher/disposal. The gentleman told me it's a standard duplex, just break the link between the hot wires and I'd be all set. I left without buying anything because I had an idea what to do.

At home I found the original duplex (the correct one) and there it was the metal link between two hots was absent. Unable to break the link in a more beefy HBL5262, I installed the original one, the switch and all. Moment of truth came. Everything worked again.

Thanks so much Jen. Now I need to find a quality duplex whose hot link can be broken more easily. By the way, two IG5262's arrived this morning and I intend to install them soon.

Have a nice weekend!

zmanbands · « **Reply #550 on:** 7 Jun 2008, 01:30 am »

Paul, how about the HBL8200H. It is hospital grade rather than industrial grade. Not as beefy. I have no idea if you can break the hot leads, however. Perhaps cryo knows?

JenMaher · « **Reply #551 on:** 7 Jun 2008, 08:52 am »

I have seen Alan use a Dremel to cut the bridge in half.

Paul_Bui · « **Reply #552 on:** 7 Jun 2008, 03:27 pm »

I ran out of Hubbell duplexes and will be looking into ordering a new batch. Will consider HBL8200 or HBL8300 for variety, but HBL5262 seems the best Hubbell at a lower cost.

Dremel will be considered too. Not a handyman, I've never used the tool before.

Thanks zmanbands and Jen.

zmanbands · « **Reply #553 on:** 7 Jun 2008, 07:56 pm »

You want the HBL 8200H. The 8200,no H, is nickle plated. Not good. The 8300H is fine but please note it is 20 amp, not 15. A 20 amp outlet and 15 amp breaker is a code violation and could be dangerous.

cryoparts · « **Reply #554 on:** 7 Jun 2008, 09:50 pm »

Hmmm, never tried. I'll check it out and let everyone know.

Peace,

Lee

Quote from: zmanbands on 7 Jun 2008, 01:30 am

Paul, how about the HBL8200H. It is hospital grade rather than industrial grade. Not as beefy. I have no idea if you can break the hot leads, however. Perhaps cryo knows?

Paul_Bui · « **Reply #555 on:** 7 Jun 2008, 10:45 pm »

Zmanbands, thanks for insisting and good tips about not to use the 20A duplex in wrong places. I checked with www.stayonline.com website where I ordered HBL5262's but they don't seem to carry the HBL8200H.

michaelv · « **Reply #556 on:** 7 Jun 2008, 11:52 pm »

I was wondering if anyone installed Reference One filter feels that it's overly warm?

I install 1 Ref. One filter in my HT circuit which is in the same phase with the 2-channel circuit. My audio circle has PE V pro/custom. I feel that the sound is way too warm, but bass is 1 notch stronger, tighter.

May be it's me who install Ref One in the wrong place. I'll try to move Ref. One to my 2 channel to see if it's different.

The filter layout in HT circuit is below:

Reference One -> PE -> PE IV ->PE (where power conditioner is). Choke 193L is at power conditioner IEC.

zmanbands · « **Reply #557 on:** 8 Jun 2008, 12:07 am »

Paul. Try onestopshopping for 8200H. http://www.onestopbuy.com/8200-H-7852.asp Under $8

zmanbands · « **Reply #558 on:** 8 Jun 2008, 12:21 am »

I just installed 2 Reference Pwr Cords 3 hours ago. My system had been shut down for 5 hours to do it since I had to drill new holes in my cabinet back and move several components. Even so after only 3 hours these are "FANTASTIC". Realism, realism, realism. Very musical. Drums and symbols much more like live. Bass Fiddle, piano, ditto. Also very sweet highs. This is a major tweak for my system. I'm shocked by how good this sounds already. Yikes, what will it sound like after 10 days of settling in??? Kudos to Alan and Jen on this one.

denjo · « **Reply #559 on:** 8 Jun 2008, 12:26 am »

Quote from: zmanbands on 8 Jun 2008, 12:21 am

I just installed 2 Reference Pwr Cords 3 hours ago.... Even so after only 3 hours these are "FANTASTIC". Realism, realism, realism. Very musical. Drums and symbols much more like live. Bass Fiddle, piano, ditto. Also very sweet highs. This is a major tweak for my system. I'm shocked by how good this sounds already.

zmanbands
I am curious! Are you referring to Alan's Studio Reference power cords?

Best Regards
Dennis