[jcmjrt]

A couple of days ago I got done with the electronics portion of the Chime build (still finishing the wood box) and it just simply sounds...well...Great (g4 ibook, iTunes, with external hard drive directly to amplifier)! When I first hooked it up, it was harsh and I thought don't let it stay this way (I knew that it wouldn't really because I have been through start-ups before) and then the caps and everything started burning in...and it is still getting sweeter and more analog sounding...very analog sounding. I guess that the USB interface must be the way to go given what's happening on playback with the Chime!    I'm extremely happy and haven't even finished ripping all of my CDs (I WILL be working on that!) yet...but most of my music is on vinyl and I would like to have it all this easily available and sounding this good.
OK, this is the point to think - speak slowly and use small words - what is the best way to rip my records to Apple lossless? I have a good turntable, cartridge, g4 ibook with Tiger (10.4), Chime (which includes HagDac) and my phono amp is great (Artemis Labs). How do I record my vinyl on to hard drive/CD to get the best results? Is there a good way to further process the music and remove pops and clicks?

BTW, I will post my final review/build info after this Chime stops sounding better on an hourly basis and I have it in the box (the box is pretty cool). Did I say that it sounds Great...and it keeps getting better!

[dB Cooper]

Suggest you look into the excellent and very reasonably priced Amadeus Pro audio editor for Mac (hairersoft.com). Has denoising and pop-and-click repair functions, as well as Audio Unit filters for things like removing subsonic noise. Another must-have (IMJ) audio app for the Mac is Audio Hijack Pro by Rogue Amoeba, which allows you to do your recording directly to Apple Lossless format (as well as AIFF and MP3), saving you a conversion step.

[gooberdude]

I've been working at making wild sounding CD's from my LP's for a few years, the best results I get are when using a standalone cd burner.  The HHB 850 of mine does a much better job than most any computer can...just a fact.  Used ones go on ebay for $200-$250

Burn at 1x using Mitsui Gold Audio Master blanks.  Rip to PC using EAC, trim & split tracks using WAV Repair.

Best way to reduce pops & ticks is to not have them in the 1st place. Clean your vinyl with an RCM and get a stylus with a fine tip...the AT 440MLa is an archivists dream at $90. The tip is so small it bypasses much of the nastiness. the bass is perfect for archiving, fast & spot on.

i do not use editing software to do anything but trim & split tracks.  removing noise or hiss damages the analog goodness you are trying to preserve.  the results are stunning though if done right. 

In most cases the cd's i make end being much better than the stamped CD with the same material...made by an actual record company.

My guess is you could make amazing CD's with your phono preamp. 

matt

[hagtech]

Yeah, I kinda agree on not using dsp and other post filters to try and 'fix' things.  Probably end up doing more harm than not.  Sure, if you're using a plastic turntable and a $20 phonostage, then process all you want.

The piece you are missing is a good digitizer.  Check out the pro studio gear for 24 bit cards.  Most of those folks use macs.  Wander around www.sweetwater.com. 

One of the tricks I've heard endorsed a lot is to record 24 bits at 88.2k.  Then downsample in software to CD format at 16/44.1k.  Then you can convert and save in one of the lossless formats such as the one from apple or FLAC.  I use both, depending on the machine.  dBpoweramp software does the translation for me.  MP3 and such are useless except for use in an iPod.  IMHO.  On a real stereo, they are just awful.  I ended up deleting every one of them from my hard drive.  My ears were bleeding.

Or you can sell your Artemis and get a RIPPER!   

jh

[SET Man]

Hey!

   I see. I've been using inexpensive M-Audio "Goovelab" same as "Transit" USB interface with my PowerBook G4 to get digital out (optical only) from iTune to my DAC for a while now

   I also used the "Live" program that came with it to rip tracks off my LPs. It could record 24/96k also but I went for 16/44.1K because it will be put on iTune and CD. Than I converted them into Apple's AIFF and put them into my iTune and burn them on to CD. The result was much better than I expected from such a small and pretty cheap USB device.

  True that it is much easier to play music that you ripped from LPs on iTune. But! Still when it come to the sound... I still prefer playing my tracks from LPs on my turntable. Oh! and if you are planning to use those programs that remove ticks and pops than you will only make the sound worst I think.

  The only reason that I ripped tracks off my LPs is just because that way I could put them on CD so I could take it anywhere. Anyway, you could find the "Transit" USB interface for about $80 or less. Not the best but pretty good I think.

Take care,
Buddy

[WGH]

I have both the Transit and the HagUSB. With my setup I prefer the HagUSB by a long shot compared to the Transit, which sounds thin and anemic in comparison. I use the Transit for it's ability to through put AC3 Dolby Digital Surround into a separate  decoder for my home theater.

[jcmjrt]

You've given me plenty to look at and think about. I may be back with more questions after I get done reading.
Chicago is sounding really good right now from the Chime.

[jcmjrt]

Another possible angle...I have access to a Phillips CD Recorder and so could record from the phono amp to the CDR and then rip to the harddrive as per usual. I would end up with one continuous recording though...is there some SIMPLE, EASY to use macintosh software that can split tracks after it has been imported into say Apple lossless?