[stvnharr]

C21 output - wire link out, replaced with stock Auricap bypassed with .01uf Sonic Platinum

Well now here is a funny thing. I just put the Auricap in at C21 as the wire link just wasn't working. Hugh and I could not figure it out for out lives, but with a wire link in at C21 the GK-1 tube section would not work. I am going to be putting in a 1uF Platinum at C21 in the near future, but I have to make sure I have room for it first.

I too will soon be putting in BC560s, however the AudioCaps will have to wait as I know I don't have room for both of them and the Platinums.

-West

West,
I understand your desire to have a 1uf Platinum at the output cap, but you have to mount it off board and use long flying leads, which is not the best. I think the Auri-T teflon bypass on the stock Auricap 1uf will work just as good, if not better, and it's 70% less.  I would have waited for pcX to get them in stock, but had the little Platinum cap so just went ahead and did that. On the other side of the interconnect is a .47uf Platinum at the amp input, so it all is a bit redundant anyway.
Best of Audio,
Steve

[kyrill]

yeah

in my pursuing the best possible structure for best sound , i "hate" to have the IC connect an output cap to an input cap it is like well you know, through two layers of rubber

[AKSA]

Ah, Kyrill,

Such a colorful, poignant metaphor, reminds us all of our young days.....

Hugh

[andyr]

West,
I understand your desire to have a 1uf Platinum at the output cap, but you have to mount it off board and use long flying leads, which is not the best. I think the Auri-T teflon bypass on the stock Auricap 1uf will work just as good, if not better, and it's 70% less.  I would have waited for pcX to get them in stock, but had the little Platinum cap so just went ahead and did that. On the other side of the interconnect is a .47uf Platinum at the amp input, so it all is a bit redundant anyway.
Best of Audio,
Steve

Not sure I agree with you, Steven.

I used a 1uF RelCap RTX as the output cap (C21) instead of the Hugh-supplied Auricap and it just sits there on the PCB.  The teflon is probably a little larger but not by much.

Regards,

Andy

[kyrill]

why are in general long leads (especiall to caps?) things to avoid?
- they are longer antenna's so they pick up "lower" wavelengths EMI and RMI interference "closer" to audible spectrum?
- DC resistance moves up?

if you use shielded wires from caps to pcb, would that annul the effect?
if you use thicker wires from caps to pcb, would that annul  the effect?

or is there something else? shielded wire sounds less "open"?

[whubbard]

If I were to put a Platinum at C21 I would have to have long leads, so maybe I will just bypass it. I was first considering to bypass, but then I thought I just might as well put the 1uF platinum in. I guess I will just go ahead and bypass and see how I like it. What value of Auri-T or Platinum should I use? .1uF or .01uF?

For C1,  I do technically have long leads on the C1, but it is no longer than the wire that would have to be there anyways. I just have it from the Manual board connecting to the Analog board, but I guess for C21 I shall try and keep them short.

-West

[AKSA]

Kyrill,

Long leads are fine if they are shielded.  But a large cap can be a sink for EMI, and there is some wisdom in shrouding it with metal to prevent ingress of EMI.  Of course, caps are more sensitive at the input than they are at the output, where impedances are much lower as the signal has been strengthened.

Cheers,

Hugh

[stvnharr]

West,
I understand your desire to have a 1uf Platinum at the output cap, but you have to mount it off board and use long flying leads, which is not the best. I think the Auri-T teflon bypass on the stock Auricap 1uf will work just as good, if not better, and it's 70% less.  I would have waited for pcX to get them in stock, but had the little Platinum cap so just went ahead and did that. On the other side of the interconnect is a .47uf Platinum at the amp input, so it all is a bit redundant anyway.
Best of Audio,
Steve

Not sure I agree with you, Steven.

I used a 1uF RelCap RTX as the output cap (C21) instead of the Hugh-supplied Auricap and it just sits there on the PCB.  The teflon is probably a little larger but not by much.

Regards,

Andy

Sure you can use a 1uf Rel RTX as it would fit nicely on the board.  A 1uf teflon cap by anyone is HUGE and must be off board.  I once had a Mundorf Silver/Oil as output cap, and it was large and off board.  I eventually found another application for it.  The RTX can also be bypassed by a small value teflon cap.

[stvnharr]

If I were to put a Platinum at C21 I would have to have long leads, so maybe I will just bypass it. I was first considering to bypass, but then I thought I just might as well put the 1uF platinum in. I guess I will just go ahead and bypass and see how I like it. What value of Auri-T or Platinum should I use? .1uF or .01uF?

For C1,  I do technically have long leads on the C1, but it is no longer than the wire that would have to be there anyways. I just have it from the Manual board connecting to the Analog board, but I guess for C21 I shall try and keep them short.

-West

The smallest Auri-T is .015uf.  The smallest Platinum is .01uf.  A .1uf cap would be difficult to use as a bypass cap as it's about twice the size of the 1uf Auricap.

[stvnharr]

yeah

in my pursuing the best possible structure for best sound , i "hate" to have the IC connect an output cap to an input cap it is like well you know, through two layers of rubber

Yes this is true.  One of the caps is redundant.  As long as the system stays put, and no changes are really made, then an input cap could safely be removed.  In my case the input cap on the amp is a bit redundant, and I've thought about taking it out.  Maybe some day.

[whubbard]

Since I will be mounting these on the back of the board (my tube side, as the tubes come out of the case), I will be picking the .01uF Sonicap Gen II. It is only .18" in diameter, so its perfect to put on the board and it should fit when I close the case.

My only question is that since the cap is cheap, is there any benefit to have two .01uF per side, or will it be a minimal difference from just one per side, or will it have no difference?

Thanks

-West

[AKSA]

West,

If you want more bypass capacitance, merely buy one cap of 0.022uF.  I'm pretty sure it's not much bigger, IF you can fit it in.

Cheers,

Hugh

[stvnharr]

Since I will be mounting these on the back of the board (my tube side, as the tubes come out of the case), I will be picking the .01uF Sonicap Gen II. It is only .18" in diameter, so its perfect to put on the board and it should fit when I close the case.

My only question is that since the cap is cheap, is there any benefit to have two .01uF per side, or will it be a minimal difference from just one per side, or will it have no difference?

Thanks

-West

Are you using the Gen II's as bypasses?  If you are going to bypass, the only ones really worth the trouble are teflons.  And even then, it's a small to neglible improvement.  It's mostly just part of one's personal stamp on the gear.

[kyrill]

hi musical sound lovers

I completely agree how important caps are in the sound path
but just as important and even more hearable  is cleaning up the wall current

Felix did wonders for my SB3 and preamp

balanced transformers wonders for poweramps ( Aksa's and Jadis)

Just as important is damping or favourable colouring as some vibrations cannot be damped but be influenced ( C37 theorie)

would be nice if we from the Aspen school share our other approaches to virgin sound

[andyr]

Nah, guys - forget all this power BS! 

To get good sound, all you need (as long as you have AKSA gear) is make up some aluminium pyramid frames.  You need a big one (to fit over your listening chair) and then smaller ones for your AKSA / LF / GK-1.   

Trust me on this, guys!   

Regards,

Andy

[kyrill]

Andy Andy Andy

If you have a machine to make a heavenly beer out of water
do you really think the quality of water would make no difference at all exept for
Joe sixpack?

[gerado]

Andy
you are giving the image similar to Get Smart's 'cone of silence', and you are starting to worry me.

T

[kyrill]

Hi Theo

how are your DEQX adventures going?
forgive me for "chatting" in this thread

[whubbard]

Well you know, I'm thinking I might just do something funny.
I am going to bypass them with .33uF V-Caps as they have the smallest diameter. They still won't fit, but since i used 3/4" MDF I will rout out little areas for them to sit. I feel this is the most economical and practical compromise. I don't have to deal with trying to fit huge 1uF caps in, and it costs less, but I have a feeling the difference in sound will be minimal.

-West

[Oz_Audio]

Gidday from Cairns.

My GK1 has finaly died and I am going for a total rebuild.

I don't know if I can afford this wish list, but here is what I gather are the best possible upgrades:

C1             Sonicap Platinum 1uF
C4 & C7             Audiocap PPMF 40uf
C6             Oscon 47uF 20V ?
C11 + C12          Nichicon Gold Tune 100uF 63V ?
C10 + C14          Nichicon KZ 100uF 50V ?
C19             Sonicap Platinum .01uF
C21             Original 1uF Auricap bypassed with Sonicap Platinum .01uF
T1, T2, T4          BC560 (matched)
R5, R9, R11, R22, R26a, R26b.    Riken Ohms, Vishay etc

I will be using my current DACT attenuator and DACT selector with Seimans 7308 Gold Pins.

Have I missed anything?

Mark