GR MTMWW begins!

Daygloworange · « **Reply #20 on:** 8 Feb 2007, 05:22 am »

Yeah, I got worked up about it too. Too bad. Bummer.

Cheers

Vapor Audio · « **Reply #21 on:** 8 Feb 2007, 04:00 pm »

I was thinking the same thing Danny, looks like sealed will go just as low as ported in these cabs - UniBox is telling me F3 won't be any better than about high 60's though

ewarren · « **Reply #22 on:** 9 Feb 2007, 09:55 pm »

Hey Day, Please keep us updated on the modified ob/7 and PR sub. I am wanting to do the same thing and would like some ideas. But first I have to finish building a deck for my house, before the wife will let me start any more projects.

Daygloworange · « **Reply #23 on:** 10 Feb 2007, 03:18 am »

No prob. I'll take pics and post all the details as soon as I get started. But if you look in my Gallery, you can see the build on my OB 5's. The OB 7 will be very similar except there will be 4 woofers in the box section instead of 2. It'll be a tight fit, the crossover is rather large. But because the box will be sealed, I have the option of attaching the crossover boards on the back of the box. I can better isolate the inductors from each other and minimize any stray inductance.

I'm looking into doing all the internal wiring with continuous cast copper. I hear good things about it. I'm also doing a set of speakers for a jeweler who has experimented with building various precious metal hybrid types of custom wiring. He will supply me with custom hand assembled composite wiring for his speakers. I'm interested in hearing them.

I'm also going to tilt back the front baffle a bit by angling the bottom of the enclosure slightly. After some discussion in another thread, I found out that the frequency response is still really good in the vertical off axis. I played around with my OB 5's, and jacked up the front 1 inch with a piece of wood under the front of the baffle. They look really cool tilted back a wee bit. I'll slant the top of the enclosure back a little as well, just for aesthetics.

I'm playing around with ideas for a new sub enclosure for my PR sub. I have to design a cool look that will blend well with the OB 5's and 7's. I want to do something radical. Maybe concrete filled, or sand and lead shot filled chambers. Maybe downfiring the active driver. I'm going to be experimenting with an Eq section for the plate amp for boosting certain frequencies to flatten out and extend the response. Really go to town. It should be fun.

I'll keep you all posted.

Cheers

Hank · « **Reply #24 on:** 11 Feb 2007, 06:26 am »

Hey, Dayglow, you're moving forward and all the best to you. I just happened to notice the reference to PR. Have you done some searches and talked to people about the sound character of PR subs? Just curious, since there are lots of guys who've tried PR's and abandonded them.

Daygloworange · « **Reply #25 on:** 11 Feb 2007, 01:33 pm »

Hank,

No I haven't done any searches on PR subs. I have spoken to some people regarding a few things, mainly about downfiring the active woofer. The comments so far indicate, that a sealed sub seems to be better for music, while a ported sub is better for home theater use.

Why have people been abandoning them? Any comments or recommendations would be greatly appreciated.

Cheers

Hank · « **Reply #26 on:** 12 Feb 2007, 01:41 am »

Day, the comments have been along the line of "slow", "not as fast, detailed response". Just hypothsising, I'd say IF there is a perceptible difference, it's because the active driver's motor is driving a secondary cone that's not electrically, instantaneously connected, but acoustically connected, resulting in a very small response lag that may result in a very small amount of lag in the PR that is heard as "slow" or maybe smear. My guess, but there seem to be several folks that find them not quite as good as direct drivers.

Daygloworange · « **Reply #27 on:** 12 Feb 2007, 02:09 am »

Hank,

I'll be listening to some different systems over the next little while that have different sub setups. I'll definitely be taking notes. Thanks for the insight.

Any links that might be of interest regarding subwoofers?

Cheers

Hank · « **Reply #28 on:** 13 Feb 2007, 06:32 pm »

Have you considered building a Sonosub? Easy constrution, natural strength of the circle, etc. I built one with an Adire 15" Tempest driver. It's on my crude website: http://www.geocities.com/hankbond1/index

Here's a thread on building a sub with 2 Dayton RSS390 HO drivers:
http://www.htguide.com/forum/showthread.php4?t=23810

Daygloworange · « **Reply #29 on:** 13 Feb 2007, 07:30 pm »

Thanks for the links.

Round is not what I'd like to do. I want a certain aesthetic, plus I want to make it out of thick material, and have chambers for ballast, but still have it look purdy.

But seeing what others have done, is cool. Like I said, I'm still learnin'.

Cheers

Vapor Audio · « **Reply #30 on:** 13 Feb 2007, 08:46 pm »

Hey dude, stop bogarting my thread

I should have some new pics later this week with update pictures, right now we're totally snowed in ... and my workbench is the back porch.

Since I'm bi-amping, I think I'm just going to wire the two M-165x's in parallel directly to the amp (no binding posts). That'll be a bit of a tough load, but I think my amp can handle it.

The only reason I didn't build new boxes for this project is that I don't have a table saw. But I plan on getting one in the Spring, and will probably build a new Transmission Line design for these! I'll probably put the top MTM section in a separate isolated enclosure at that time too ... can never leave well enough alone, haha!

Vapor Audio · « **Reply #31 on:** 26 Feb 2007, 05:19 pm »

Got one speaker up and running, and cutting the driver holes for number 2 right now. I should have both running by this evening!

Hey Danny, I assume wiring the two M-165x's in series is the way to go ... right?

Danny Richie · « **Reply #32 on:** 26 Feb 2007, 05:24 pm »

You're powering them with a separate amp aren't you? If the amp is 4 ohm stable them I would wire them in parallel.

Vapor Audio · « **Reply #33 on:** 26 Feb 2007, 05:49 pm »

Quote from: Danny on 26 Feb 2007, 05:24 pm

You're powering them with a separate amp aren't you? If the amp is 4 ohm stable them I would wire them in parallel.

Yep, they're bi-amped and it's 4 ohm stable. I thought that 2 87db drivers in series would be 90db, and 93db in parallel. The A/V3 upper half is pretty much 90db, right?

Danny Richie · « **Reply #34 on:** 26 Feb 2007, 08:04 pm »

That's correct. Maybe then you won't have to driver those lower woofers quite as hard to keep up.

Vapor Audio · « **Reply #35 on:** 26 Feb 2007, 09:13 pm »

Quote from: Danny on 26 Feb 2007, 08:04 pm

That's correct. Maybe then you won't have to driver those lower woofers quite as hard to keep up.

Excellent, the amp I'm using now has no level controls - but the one I'm building does. So obviously keeping the top and bottom half at close to the same level is what I'm after right now.

The one I have up and running sounds great from my quick testing. It seems like keeping a big coil out of the loop really 'speeds up' the bass. Kick drum is pretty intense! And the top half seems to like not having to do bass ... also I think the Sonicap upgrade really clears up the treble.

I'm working away, waiting now for some putty and veneer glue to dry. But still hoping to have them both up and running this evening! I'll certainly post lots of pics and thoughts. The front of the cabinet is a wall of drivers, they certainly look like they mean business

nodiak · « **Reply #36 on:** 28 Feb 2007, 02:11 am »

TurboFC3S, looking forward to how your idea works out. I love those kind of speakers, and am interested in the A/V3 and 165x drivers. Good luck.
Don

Vapor Audio · « **Reply #37 on:** 1 Mar 2007, 08:15 pm »

Check it out! Just a couple hours away now ... one speaker done, one just needs wired up. Somehow, I was able to make them look halfway decent. I fudged many many things along the way finishing them, mostly due to working on my back porch and kitchen floor, but recovered nicely

The bubinga looks incredible, here with nothing but some honey maple stain applied - I'll probably add some layers of tung oil over the next few months. The bases are solid 1.5" thick curly maple blocks, stained with Sedona Red.

The plan is to run them sealed for now, but since I have a woofer tester (and no passive components in the path of the 2 M-165x drivers) I'll probably play with adding ports and measuring the actual tuning frequency with the tester. I'm also interested in trying out some of the 'vario-vent' aperiodic vent thingies for tuning.

Danny Richie · « **Reply #38 on:** 2 Mar 2007, 02:42 am »

Dang those look good! You really did wonders with those old boxes.

ryno · « **Reply #39 on:** 2 Mar 2007, 02:46 am »

looks great turbo.
are you going active xover between the MTM and the lower woofers?
Ryan