M-165X woofers now available

Danny Richie · « **on:** 27 Oct 2006, 11:48 pm »

The first shipment just arrived and is available for shipping.

http://www.gr-research.com/drivers/m165x.shtm

The on line ordering system is still not working. I hope to have it resolved shortly.

klh · « **Reply #1 on:** 28 Oct 2006, 12:18 am »

Congrats... it seems like you've been waiting forever for these bad boys. It is a little surprising that the Xmax is as low as it is... I would imagine that was necessary for them to reach your specifications. I'd gladly give up a little Xmax to get better SQ. It'll be nice to see the new designs roll out now that you have a bunch of them in stock.

Danny Richie · « **Reply #2 on:** 28 Oct 2006, 12:39 am »

7.8 mm each way is plenty.

kfr01 · « **Reply #3 on:** 28 Oct 2006, 01:25 am »

Danny - looking forward to seeing your designs implementing this driver.

S Clark · « **Reply #4 on:** 28 Oct 2006, 01:32 am »

Danny,
Do you have a 2 way designed with this yet-- and could we hear it in a couple of weeks when we make our pilgramage to Iowa Park?
Scott

RAW · « **Reply #5 on:** 28 Oct 2006, 01:43 am »

OB and ribbon plus a tower MT with a ribbon.

Hank · « **Reply #6 on:** 30 Oct 2006, 03:26 am »

I've got the fronts, backs, sides, tops and bottoms cut for a pair. I'll try to assemble one this week and ship it to Danny.

Hank · « **Reply #7 on:** 7 Nov 2006, 06:44 pm »

Delayed because of committments (2 playing gigs last weekend), AND Al put the pressure on me to try a slot vent rather than a tube port vent - so much pressure that I backed up and am figuring out how to do it. Panels and braces are cut, will do the router thing then assemble one by the weekend, then ship it to Danny (unfinished). It's going to be heavier than I thought. Danny, what's the internal volume displacement of the M-165X?

RAW · « **Reply #8 on:** 7 Nov 2006, 08:13 pm »

Hank

Think you will like the slot ports.

Hank · « **Reply #9 on:** 4 Dec 2006, 03:59 am »

Danny, I handed over the experimental cabinet to the gorilla box-crushers at UPS Saturday, so i'ts speeding itself to you. 47 pounds in the raw (MDF, that is), including a pound or two of cardboard and 3M box sealing tape. Taking my outside dimensions and subtracting internal braces and drivers, it's a net 1.356 ft^3, which should get you an F3 of 37+ Hz.
Keep me posted on crossover development.

Danny Richie · « **Reply #10 on:** 4 Dec 2006, 04:18 am »

Cool. I look forward to getting it.

Hank · « **Reply #11 on:** 7 Dec 2006, 04:24 am »

Was there anything recognizable remaining of the cabinet after UPS ground delivered it? I used a lot of spare cardboard and some footer sealing microfoam to protect it, plus about a pound of 3M packaging tape.

Danny Richie · « **Reply #12 on:** 7 Dec 2006, 04:32 am »

It looks like it will work.

Hank · « **Reply #13 on:** 7 Dec 2006, 06:18 pm »

Youv'e probably found it by now (I should have mentioned in my first note), but I fabricated an access plate with gasket on the bottom so you can hot glue your crossover to it and remove\replace as you tweak your crossover.

Danny Richie · « **Reply #14 on:** 7 Dec 2006, 06:43 pm »

I found it, but I make it much easier than that.

I'll use a binding post cup that fits that hole you made that has two sets of terminals. Drivers are wired straight to them. Then the crossover is mounted outboard and changed on the fly while taking measurments.

Hank · « **Reply #15 on:** 8 Dec 2006, 11:49 pm »

Actually, I designed the removable bottom insert to hold the final crossover, for easier installation than fitting it inside the cabinet through the mid-woof opening. Also easier to remove to upgrade caps and make repairs on.

Hard lesson: A few years ago, I made a pair of tower speakers and installed the crossover through the woof opening after lots of contorting moves. A year later the tweeter quit. I ordered an new tweet, removed the woofer and discovered the big resistor lead had melted through because of current concentration at a very sharp right angle bend in the resisor lead wire. Some dummy

in my assembly department had squeezed the resistor lead HARD with needle nose pliers, bent the lead 90 degrees, weakening it and thinning the lead material in half at that point. It was a BEAR to replace that resistor, as I couldn't remove the crossover board that I had Luquid Nailed in place, giving no thought to having to remove it again

Danny Richie · « **Reply #16 on:** 8 Dec 2006, 11:55 pm »

Oh yea, I really like mounting the crossover in the bottom. Several of my floor standing speakers are designed that way.