[JeffB]

The Visaton B200 has two male spade terminals for slipping a push-on female spade.  The male spade is on a small mounting bracket.  This mounting brack has two small holes through it.  The center hole has a screw with a square nut on it.  I do not understand the function that the screw with the square nut provides. I also do not understand the function of the second hole.

Radioshack has a female bannana plug that looks like it could be attached to the center hole of this mounting bracket.  The banana also has a small arm on it that looks like it would probably contact the male spade terminal.

So I am thinking that this Radioshack female banana plug might be a good way to make the connection.
However, it involves removing the screw that is already in place.  I am not sure if this is a good idea, although I can't see how any harm could come from it.
I am also not sure if I will get a solid connection between the spade and the arm on the banana.
I suppose I could use an aligator clip to secure the arm to the spade.

I don't want to sodder.  I am too afraid of hurting the voice coil.

I am a little worried about placing the banana on the mounting bracket.  I don't want to damage the bracket through repeated connects/disconnects.  Although I think this unlikely I am still a little worried.

If I can't mount the banana directly to the bracket, then I'll have to mount the banana to the board.
Most bananas are designed to go through a board.  I don't want to have mounting nuts on the front side of my baffle.
The Radioshack bananas that I am looking at have a very small hole in the sideways arm that would seemingly allow them to be nailed to the board.

Otherwise, I guess I would need to place an L-bracket on the back of the board.  I could nail the L-bracket in place and mount the bananas on the other side of the L bracket.

Any info/advise on a good way to connect to the terminals would be appreciated.

I like banana plugs so I want that as my ultimate connection.

[mcgsxr]

I used simple push on connectors that fit both the + and - connectors on the driver itself, leading off to some binding posts that I attached to the baffle.  My speaker cables (Bolder M-80 with Eichmann Bayonets) connect to those posts.

No solder, no worries!

[mcgsxr]

Here is a link to a pic in my gallery, that shows how I mounted the binding posts, without "piercing" the main baffle.

http://www.audiocircle.com/index.php?action=gallery;area=browse;album=267&pos=1

[JeffB]

mcgsxr,

Your B200 has different terminals than mine.
I have one terminal on each side 180 degrees apart.

Thanks for the pic.

[mcgsxr]

OK, I can see on mine, that on the side directly opposite to where BOTH the + and - are, there is another "post".

Are you saying that on your pair, each side has a connector?  IE the + is on the right, while the - is on the left?

Could you provide a pic?

Thanks,

[JeffB]

"Are you saying that on your pair, each side has a connector?  IE the + is on the right, while the - is on the left?"
Yes, that is what I am saying.

A picture would be difficult at this time.  I don't own a digital camera.  Perhaps, I'll take pictures of the project on film and then ask for CD prints.

[lonewolfny42]

Here is a link to a pic in my gallery, that shows how I mounted the binding posts, without "piercing" the main baffle.

http://www.audiocircle.com/index.php?action=gallery;area=browse;album=267&pos=1

....................................... ....................................... ................

[markC]

Hey Mark,
I see that you have your sub drivers mounted in the baffles now. How's that working out for you?

[mcgsxr]

Hello other Toronto Mark.

I have installed a set of 12's, one per baffle, and like how it is working.

That said, I think I will order and install another set of 12's... AND do some research on how to limit the vibrations created by these babies.

The sound is good - better than my single 12 inch H baffle, I suspect due to less distortion, which is why I seek 2 more 12's (and the fact that I will then have a 4 ohm load for my sub amp, and get 300w over 4 drivers, vs 240w over 2 drivers at 8 ohms) and for me, I like the direction it is going.  I have no ability to erect a wall, and go with IB as you are lucky enough to do!

I think I will end up with dramatically thicker main baffles, or explore having a thin air gap around the bass baffle, where it mates to the main baffle etc.

[lizardBrain]

Mark:

Can you describe what you mean by "a thin air gap" for the woofers? I am not familiar with this.

Thanks,
Matt

[bengun]

Hello every one i was as we do looking through single/driver web-site, mention of a extra wire fixing was discussed. Wire taken from speaker terminal red or black? to ground speaker frame or middle fixing.Improvment? bengun,

[JeffB]

Well as it turns out, I still have no idea why there is a screw in the B200 mounting bracket.  However, it easily unscrews and my radio shack female bananas screw in there perfectly.  It is then easy to run a wire from the terminal post to the banana.  This turns out to be a huge mistake.  The positive terminal gets grounded to the basket frame. Fortunately, my amp and speaker seemed to have survived without a problem.

[fu_man]

Anyone  care  to  make a  recommendation for hookup  wire?

I  am  in the process of  setting up a pair of  Cable Pods, similar to  Mcgsxr's   setup.  What  should I use  from the driver  to the pods?

thanks

[JohninCR]

What  should I use  from the driver  to the pods?

Copper wire, unless you have some specialty cable that acts like a 1mh coil + an 8 ohm resistor.

[fu_man]

hhhmmm? copper you say?  simple as  that .
Actually i have an inductor and 10 ohm resistor  dangling off the  back of the driver now.  I want to  be able to  pull it off  and  listen, and  then plug it straight back in and listen...  Took me  so much  mucking  around  putting it on last  weekend that i  finished at  2am in the morning and was too delirious to know what  was happening. 
I  want to tidy it up a bit.  where as  I previously had  my speaker  cable  wrapped  around the driver terminals, I want to make things a  bit more equal so i can try to  tell what this is doing!

[mcgsxr]

For a simple, effective, cheap start, I always use CAT5e networking cable.  Plenum rated has the teflon dialectric, and uses solid core copper.

[JohninCR]

For a simple, effective, cheap start, I always use CAT5e networking cable.  Plenum rated has the teflon dialectric, and uses solid core copper.

That's what I use except the larger gauge CAT6, and the twisting helps fight off electrical interference.