Bugle Power Supply Help

PatOMalley · « **on:** 19 Apr 2006, 12:24 pm »

Hey Jim,

Can you post a clear picture of the wiring hookup for the Bugle Pro pwer supply?

I finished mine last night, plugged it in and no light on the LED.

It was late so I just quit for the evening without refereincing the schematic but I am sure I must have the got the wiring wrong. It is hard to tell from the picture in the manual or the online pictures.

hagtech · « **Reply #1 on:** 19 Apr 2006, 07:02 pm »

I don't have any pics handy. What are your output voltages? Check electrolytics and diodes to make sure they are not backwards. Check regulators to see if + and - are swapped.

jh

PatOMalley · « **Reply #2 on:** 20 Apr 2006, 01:15 am »

3 of the diodes are reversed. i am a real piker and did not know that they were +/-.

i have no three handed tool and the wife is in Philly this evening so i've got to wait. i hate waiting.

i have already soldered resisters in where the switches go and had to remove them. soldered an opamp in bacwards and had to take it out and reverse it. burned myself with the soldering iron - that hurt.

picked up an RCA connector after soldering hookup wire to it. that hurt too.

is the LED +/- as well?

hagtech · « **Reply #3 on:** 20 Apr 2006, 06:09 am »

Quote

is the LED +/- as well?

Long lead is positive.

jh

analog97 · « **Reply #4 on:** 20 Apr 2006, 10:37 pm »

Quote

i am a real piker and did not know that they were +/-.

Pat, I was quite stupid when I started my building my first Hagtech product. Trust me. SLOW DOWN. Look carefully, then go for it. I am 3/3 so far. Hagtech would not want to have paid me an hourly wage for building the Cornet2. Now, I am a fairly competent assembler. SLOW DOWN.

PatOMalley · « **Reply #5 on:** 21 Apr 2006, 12:48 am »

just finished replacing diodes and still nogo. i was about ready to throw in the towel when i read your post.

maybe i will take a break and have another look ... in a week!

hagtech · « **Reply #6 on:** 21 Apr 2006, 06:51 am »

Also check the AC wiring. Had this happen before. There are two primaries that need to be wired in parallel for 115V operation. It is possible to wire up one backwards, in which case they buck and produce zero net output.

I forget exactly what the manual says, something about if you labeled them in a row: 1, 2, 3, 4. Then pins 1 & 3 get tied together and 2 & 4. Tie the ac line to these two taps. Wish I had put a fuse on that board...

jh

PatOMalley · « **Reply #7 on:** 24 Apr 2006, 12:05 pm »

Jim,

wiring looks right. What should I see on the meter at output?

hagtech · « **Reply #8 on:** 24 Apr 2006, 06:33 pm »

Ok, first check is for smoke. Or if the power tranny gets warm real fast. Then check output ac voltage from secondary windings. Both sides should give 15Vac. Check output dc voltage. From there, if not operating properly, you backtrack.

We've checked for backwards parts (diode, caps), regulators in the wrong location (will short output), solder balls and bridges.

Rarely (not sure it has happened yet) it will turn out to be a bad component. Most often we've just made an assembly error of some sort. Like DigiKey putting the wrong part in the bag.

jh

Gooch · « **Reply #9 on:** 25 Apr 2006, 08:18 pm »

Also make sure you have the right regulator for the -15vdc if you had to use a substitute like I did because the one Jim spec's digikey was out of stock make sure the one you have has the right pinout pin 1 input 2 ground 3 output When you do a search for a 7915 on digikey's site the first one that comes you pins 1&2 are reversed they look the same but there not.

Regards

Dave

PatOMalley · « **Reply #10 on:** 26 Apr 2006, 12:19 am »

just read your post Gooch- i put the regulators in so that they are not flush but 'fit' onto the heat sink. I do know I put the regulators in the right spot because I followed the component codes on the parts list ~ but maybe i diidn't fit them into those spots right?

I get no smoke and the tranny does not heat up. nothing at output. havge a look at my wiring below. does it look right? pay no attention to color codees for wiring as i don't know if i got that right.

I feel like I am so close ...

http://gallery.AudioAsylum.com/cgi/gi.mpl?u=33809&f=BPacinput.jpg" width=600 height=533>

Gooch · « **Reply #11 on:** 26 Apr 2006, 02:02 am »

Pat
From what I see in the picture is the 4700uf 25v caps on the right are in backwards the white stripe should be facing the transformer.The left side caps the white stripe faces away from the transformer.
Jim could corect me if I am wrong.

Regards

Dave

robertwstephens · « **Reply #12 on:** 26 Apr 2006, 02:58 am »

I think you should name it Frankenbugle! I hope you get it working. It looks like a labor of love. Peace. Robert

hagtech · « **Reply #13 on:** 26 Apr 2006, 06:28 am »

Is there a fuse in the ac connector?

jh

PatOMalley · « **Reply #14 on:** 26 Apr 2006, 11:27 am »

Yes, there is a fuse. I will have a look at that when I get home and see if it is blown and replace it if it is. does the wiring look OK?

Gooch · « **Reply #15 on:** 26 Apr 2006, 01:15 pm »

Pins 1&3 are line volatge 2&4 neutral
Line come in and goes to a fuse then from there to switch from switch to power supply. neutral come in and goes to power supply. That looks like how you wired it. But the caps still look like there backwards the 4700uf electrolytic I would also check the small 470uf to make sure there in right.

ShinOBIWAN · « **Reply #16 on:** 26 Apr 2006, 05:30 pm »

I'll be amazed if this works what with all the mistakes.

PatOMalley · « **Reply #17 on:** 26 Apr 2006, 05:55 pm »

me too.

but if it doesn't i can live with my limitations ... and go for a Jolida JD-9

Gooch · « **Reply #18 on:** 26 Apr 2006, 06:33 pm »

Pat
You can do this take a deep breathe. Go back and double check all your work I know you probably have done that many times already I know what it like been there I have build many kits and still make mistakes compare your work to the diagram in the manual double check it again. Once you know that all the parts are in the right position I would test the unit all by it self then if you get the right readings on your DMM +15vdc and -15vdc at the output you will be good to go. And put it back in you chassis remember the caps have polarity so they have to be installed the right way the white stripe is the negative side and Jim boards are well marked out to where the + sign is just make sure there in right. Troubleshooting is part of diy and when you’re done you will be batter at it. And when it's up and running thing of the satisfaction that you will have.

Good luck

Dave

hagtech · « **Reply #19 on:** 26 Apr 2006, 06:46 pm »

Disconnect the Bugle. Then debug. A few people have wired up the outputs on the negative side as a direct short to ground. Peel back the onion. Fire up one portion at a time.

jh