[Brian Bunge]

Al,

I used a poly that's from an unfinished furniture store but it's not like the Minwax poly's I've used before.  I assume that these have some type of oils mixed in because the finish looks and feels much nicer than the Minwax stuff.  To give you an idea of what I mean by "feel", a good friend of mine commented on how smooth and silky my speaker cabinets feel to the touch.  When I asked her what was so special about it, she said that it was unlike any other wood finish she'd ever seen/felt.  Considering her dad does a lot of woodworking that comment meant a lot to me.

[Al Garay]

One last question and then will bring the thread back on track...

Do you wipe it on?

[Brian Bunge]

Yep, it's a wipe on.  If you want to try using it you can contact the manufacturer to see if there is a store near you that sells it.

www.olddads.com

[Al Garay]

Kevin,

Are the spikes included in the kit? Do you have them on your site? I have just about all the drivers and just need the crossover parts and accesories (ports, spikes, connectors, etc).

I'm commited to selling my little MBOW1s to fund a pair of Kit2641s. I heard a friend's system in Tucson using B&W 800 series speakers: 802Ds for front, 804s for rear (about $18k worth of speakers) with very good Proceed, Mark Levinson electronics. It sounded excellent, perhaps a bit bright at times. When I returned home, I cranked my LCRs and I smiled as I realized that mine sounded every bit as good with movies and DTS concerts. With the LCRs replacing the MBOW1s, my system will get better.

thanks,

Al

[Kevin P]

Kevin,

Are the spikes included in the kit? Do you have them on your site? I have just about all the drivers and just need the crossover parts and accesories (ports, spikes, connectors, etc).
...

We don't include spikes.   I've been looking at sourcing some "Exodus Feet" but it has been low enough on the priority list that it hasn't been done.    I've been using a rubber bumper with a 1/4-20 threaded shaft from McMasterCarr on mine.   They don't scratch surfaces and provide some decoupling from the floor.    Spikes would couple the enclosure to the floor.    There seems to be people in both camps and I've not done extensive testing but I'm inclined to decouple.  

I can give you the McMasterCarr part number or I have some extras, just give me a call.    

I'm commited to selling my little MBOW1s to fund a pair of Kit2641s. I heard a friend's system in Tucson using B&W 800 series speakers: 802Ds for front, 804s for rear (about $18k worth of speakers) with very good Proceed, Mark Levinson electronics. It sounded excellent, perhaps a bit bright at times. When I returned home, I cranked my LCRs and I smiled as I realized that mine sounded every bit as good with movies and DTS concerts. With the LCRs replacing the MBOW1s, my system will get better.

Your experience is just one of many.   I need to gather together the list of quotes I have of people who have replaced >$10,000 speakers.   There is no magic or voodoo here either.   We are just using excellent quality parts and good engineering.    I think you will like the 2641s.   They are my favorite of the bunch so far for 2-channel music.   They image and stage as well or better than the monitors.

[guest1632]

These are the measurement results from the final version of the 2641.

Things to note:

*  The 2641 is a tower TMWW configuration.  

*  Dimensions 41" (H) x 8" (W) x 12.5" (D)

*  Tuned to 30Hz with 3" dual flared port

*  Ten component crossover!   Holy smokes this worked out well.   For comparison our KIT61 has eight components and it's a 2-way design.  

*  The crossover points are at 700Hz between woofer & midrange with about a 2nd-3rd order acoustic slope.   The crossover between midrange ...

Hi Kevin,

Just curious, why did you choose the woover too mid at 700 hz. That's a real sensitive spot for the ears.

Ray

[Kevin Haskins]

I don't know that it's any more sensitive than 500Hz or 1Khz.    The baffle step of the enclosure slowly occurs roughly in that region.   Having the crossover there allows us to compensate for it without an electrical network specifically designed for that purpose.   You can play the midrange lower but you end up putting more power into a smaller driver that has more power compression due to VC heating than would a larger driver.   You also need larger and more expensive components in the crossover the lower you cross.     The final reason is I've tried to keep some consistancy across our product line.   All the three ways use similiar crossover points so that we get a matching system when used for HT.

[guest1632]

I don't know that it's any more sensitive than 500Hz or 1Khz.    The baffle step of the enclosure slowly occurs roughly in that region.   Having the crossover there allows us to compensate for it without an electrical network specifically designed for that purpose.   You can play the midrange lower but you end up putting more power into a smaller driver that has more power compression due to VC heating than would a larger driver.   You also need larger and more expensive components in the crossover

Hi Kevin, Thanks for the info. That makes sense.

Ray

[alethos]

Silly question perhaps, but...

According to the pdf the woofer's polarity is reversed when wiring. But, in the pictures at the beginning of this post it appears such is not the case. Please inform me which is the correct way, or if I'm wrong about the pictures in the post. Don't want to screw up my first pair of 2641's.

Thanks

[kfr01]

Follow the pdf.  

Also - I like testing the crossover prior to sealing up the enclosure.  Just a bit easier to fix a mistake.  You only really have to worry about testing the tweeter - it'll be hard for a crossover mistake to take out an Extremis at low volume levels.  

Don't turn the volume up at all if you hear bass from the tweeters!

[Kevin Haskins]

Yes.. follow the PDF.   The pictures from the beginning of this post where done during prototype time and we went through a couple crossover revisions before ending up with the final build.

[alethos]

very good, thanks. Just out of curiousity, the reasoning behind the polarity reversal, is it to eliminate phase shifting?

[Kevin Haskins]

No... it's to keep them in phase with the midrange at the crossover point.        It has no significance other than the fact that if you hook them wrong you are going to get large holes in the FR at the crossover point.

[dawaro]

Kevin can you give me the McMasterCarr part number for the rubber feet you used on these cabinets?

[Kevin Haskins]

Sure... I'm not sure I'd recommend them.   They are not real stable with this tall/thin cabinet.   If you don't have kids you may be fine but something a little firmer would work better.  

McMasterCarr Part# 9377K53

[kfr01]

I ended up using these Dayton spikes.

http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?&DID=7&Partnumber=240-716

They are big, sturdy, adjustable, have little platforms for hardwoods, and are easy to install.

[saphoto]

I used these, 2.15 inch tall brass spikes.
http://www.oregondv.com/2150spike.htm
I'm on carpet, so I wanted to get them off that. I tried, nothing, round rubber speaker feet-1/2" tall, small spikes extended 1" and then these tall spikes. This is what I settled on, gave me the best clairity. YMMV

[dawaro]

Thanks. I guess the McMaster stuff is out of the question, 3 kids & 2 dogs. I may just go with the rubber feet from PE. I am on hardwood floors so spikes are ruled out.