[Kevin P]

A roundover will not negatively impact the sound.  In fact, you can make the enclosure slightly wider to accomodate a slightly larger roundover without negatively impacting the sound quality.

You can go about 0.75" wider without a problem.   I threw up a sheet of MDF on the side and took a measurement to check.    

The roundover probably has minimal effect on diffraction.   It would need to be much larger before it would start making a difference.

[guest1632]

A roundover will not negatively impact the sound.  In fact, you can make the enclosure slightly wider to accomodate a slightly larger roundover without negatively impacting the sound quality.

You can go about 0.75" wider without a problem.   I threw up a sheet of MDF on the side and took a measurement to check.    

The roundover probably has minimal effect on diffraction.   It would need to be much larger before it would start making a difference.

I Guys, Would it be possible to use formica like stuff instead of the paper veneer? Kevin I am woodworking challenged. So if I wanted a pair of these what would it cost WITH THE FRONT GRILLS if you please? I don't mind paying for the grills.

I am a blind person, so some of the stuff like which terminal on the drivers go where and such. I am handy with a screw driver, but don't have the experience and toolds in the necessary cabinet building stuff. I guess I am one that if had the complete cabinet, PCB crossover, and if the cabinet had the necessary holes cut I could put them together with the necessary docs. Are you using any fancy wire inside or something like 18 gauge? Thanks again for your time.

Ray

[Brian Bunge]

Formica could be used without any problems as long as you don't mind all the cabinet edges being square.  You won't be able to bend it around a rounded corner without special tools.

As far as I know Kevin isn't offering finished cabinets so I'd be happy to give you a quote on cabinets if you like.  Just let me know.

[guest1632]

Formica could be used without any problems as long as you don't mind all the cabinet edges being square.  You won't be able to bend it around a rounded corner without special tools.

As far as I know Kevin isn't offering finished cabinets so I'd be happy to give you a quote on cabinets if you like.  Just let me know.

Hi Brian, Well, I figure using Formica would also add a little dampening to the cabinets. Have you tried the 1 inch wood? would that make a big difference in cabinet resonances?
Ray

[Brian Bunge]

I don't think that formica would add much damping over using wood veneer.  It definitely won't look as nice, IMHO.  I don't think using 1" MDF is going to make a huge difference since the cabinet already appears to be well braced but I've built cabinets with it before.  One thing it definitely does is add a lot to the shipping costs!  I'm in the process of working on 3 LCR's with 3/4" MDF except for the 1.5" thick baffles and I can tell you that they are very heavy without the drivers mounted in them yet.

[Kevin P]

I Guys, Would it be possible to use formica like stuff instead of the paper veneer? Kevin I am woodworking challenged. So if I wanted a pair of these what would it cost WITH THE FRONT GRILLS if you please? I don't mind paying for the grills.

I am a blind person, so some of the stuff like which terminal on the drivers go where and such. I am handy with a screw driver, but don't have the experience and toolds in the necessary cabinet building stuff. I guess I am one that if had the complete cabinet, PCB crossover, and if the cabinet had the necessary holes cut I could put them together with the necessary docs. Are you using any fancy wire inside or something like 18 gauge? Thanks again for your time.

As Brian, said we are not a cabinet shop.   Either Brian or Al W. can help in that department and get you quotes on finished cabinets/grills.

We use Canare 14AWG & 16AWG wire inside the cabinets as our stock wire.   I'm very pleased with the quality of the Canare.

[Kevin P]

Formica could be used without any problems as long as you don't mind all the cabinet edges being square.  You won't be able to bend it around a rounded corner without special tools.

As far as I know Kevin isn't offering finished cabinets so I'd be happy to give you a quote on cabinets if you like.  Just let me know.

Hi Brian, Well, I figure using Formica would also add a little dampening to the cabinets. Have you tried the 1 inch wood? would that make a big difference in cabinet resonances?
Ray

I'd say no... it won't make a big difference.   The cabinets are well braced and designed so that chambers are not the same size.   It breaks the cabinet resonance modes into multiple smaller resonances.    Using thicker material just moves the resonance nodes around.   Higher mass = lower resonance.    

If you are building your own cabinets and you want to go overkill I suggest constrained layer construction for the very best possible cabinet.    If you are buying finished ones it's just not cost effective.   A properly built constrained layer cabinet will cost multiples of the standard cabinet.

[kfr01]

Any word on whether cuts based on those preliminary drawings would be reasonably safe to make?

Thanks

[Brian Bunge]

The driver cutouts are definitely correct.  I can only assume that Kyle got the spacing right.  From a quick glance it appears that it jives with the info. that Kevin sent me.

[Kevin P]

Any word on whether cuts based on those preliminary drawings would be reasonably safe to make?

Thanks

I give them the thumbs up.  

My general recommendation (and almost universally ignored) is to wait until you have parts to start.   Having real drivers and parts to fit against your materials is always easier for test fitting and double-checking your work.

There isn't a PCB for the 2641 out of the gate.   That will come in a couple months so plan on either using an external crossover or hot gluing to the bottom of the enclosure.    I'd do it before buttoning up an enclosure which greatly simplifies doing much of the crossover work.

[guest1632]

I give them the thumbs up.  

My general recommendation (and almost universally ignored) is to wait until you have parts to start.   Having real drivers and parts to fit against your materials is always easier for test fitting and double-checking your work.

There isn't a PCB for the 2641 out of the gate.   That will come in a couple months so plan on either using an external crossover or hot gluing to the bottom of the enclosure.    I'd do it before buttoning up an enclosure which greatly simplifies doing much of the crossover work.

Hi Kevin, So do you then mount the parts on those ties that you just solder all the parts to in a row? Use to see them in old tube type gear.

Ray

[Al Garay]

I would recommend you hot glue the parts to 1/4" boards which could be plywood, hardwood (go to Lowes or Home Depot by the cutting area and ask if you can have the scrap). Use industrial grade velcro to mount the boards to the bottom or sides of the internal enclosure. If you size them correctly, you should be able to remove them from the woofer opening. Remember to use plenty of connectors on the wiring to make it easy to remove the crossover boards... You will be pulling them in and out multiple times for tweaking or troubleshooting.  By the way, use a very generous amount of hot glue for the large inductors.

Another tip is to use the European terminal strips which you can buy at Radio Shack (get the big ones for 12awg) to keep the input/output wiring neat.  Label the wires.

Have fun.

[Kyle R.]

I can only assume that Kyle got the spacing right.

Of course they're right!  After all, look who you're talking about!

(no comments from the peanut gallery)

[Brian Bunge]

Guys,

Just an FYI here, but the 3/8" through holes for the binding posts will only work if you're going to use the posts ONLY!  The back of the spacers have a little lip that extends slightly down into the through hole.  If you want to use the little black spacer then you will need to drill out a 7/16" hole.  I personally don't like the spacers and don't care anything about having my posts exactly 3/4" on center so I won't be using the spacers on my own personal cabinets.  But I know some people will and the spacer does help to seal the holes in the cabinet so for customers I'll use the spacer unless they state otherwise.

[kfr01]

Brian - Thanks for the tip.  That'll save me some experimentation.

[Brian Bunge]

No problem at all!  Finding that 7/16" bit was a bitch though.  The local hardware store (very small) didn't have a 7/16" wood bit, so I had to spend $8 on a high speed steel bit.  I guess it'll come in handy of I ever build an amp and need to drill out holes in a metal case to mount these posts.

[Kevin P]

No problem at all!  Finding that 7/16" bit was a bitch though.  The local hardware store (very small) didn't have a 7/16" wood bit, so I had to spend $8 on a high speed steel bit.  I guess it'll come in handy of I ever build an amp and need to drill out holes in a metal case to mount these posts.

They are probably metric.   I'll measure them when I get into the office.

I like the black plastic bracket.   It holds the two post in place and gives them their orientation.    

The terminal cups are now in stock also.   I've got web development work to get them up on the page today.

[kfr01]

I received a pair of the Exodus Long Binding Posts yesterday and installed them.  I also like the plastic connector piece.  The lip is so small that I just widened the same hole I drilled for the posts ever so slightly with the tip of a larger bit and there was no problem with the installation.  I like the posts themselves to grip the wood.  

Anyway - great work on the binding posts, Kevin.  They really are a quality product.

[Kevin P]

I received a pair of the Exodus Long Binding Posts yesterday and installed them.  I also like the plastic connector piece.  The lip is so small that I just widened the same hole I drilled for the posts ever so slightly with the tip of a larger bit and there was no problem with the installation.  I like the posts themselves to grip the wood.  

Anyway - great work on the binding posts, Kevin.  They really are a quality product.

Thanks... I like them too.  

I used your approach on my cabinets also.   If you just want to drill one hole I'd use a 7/16" bit or 11mm.    If you are worried about leaking either going with a 9mm or 3/8" bit will give a tight fit and then you have to open it up with a larger bit on the outside to fit the plastic retainer.

[Al Garay]

This thread needs more pictures. Do you have new pictures of your cabinets?