[mb]

I've taken the plunge and ordered an HT3 kit.

If you're building any of the kits, please post your experience and tips here, while I wait for delivery   . Thanks.

[theNoid]

I have built the HT2 speakers here. SCHMOKIN' I tell ya. The kit came with everything needed, and was very easy to do. If you have any questions or comments, you can always ask here or for a quicker response, give Al a call as he a great guy to talk to and he is very knowledgable when it comes to the products he offers. You can also contact me via e-mail or on here as well. I will be more than happy to help in any way that I can.

Noidster

[Cacophonix]

Question about one brace as in the HT3 cabinet plans -

The notes sections mentions that the brace is 1.25" thick ... but the brace between the tweeter and the WR125 seems more like 3/4". So which is it ... 3/4" or 1.25"?

And also I'd a silly little question about the port in the diagram ...
Do I just attach this port to the port hole and leave the other end hanging in there or does it need some sort of attaching to the sides?

Sorry if the answers to those were too obvious ... I'm a newbie when it comes to cabinet building.  

[RAW]

Good question!
You are the first to ask.
You can use 3/4" or 1.25" for this brace but when using the 1.25" MDF you use place it correctly  or you will restick the air flow around the WR125S driver.
I perfer to use 1.25" but we put this in the plan and show it really as a way to use 3/4" more room for assembly error.

The less volume in that cabinet does not matter to the WR driver as were it is roleed off in the network.

[theNoid]

And also I'd a silly little question about the port in the diagram ...
Do I just attach this port to the port hole and leave the other end hanging in there or does it need some sort of attaching to the sides?

Sorry if the answers to those were too obvious ... I'm a newbie when it comes to cabinet building.  

As for bracing the port, it is not necessary if you cut the mounting hole right and use some sort of adhesive to keep it in place. My port holes are usually undercut slightly and then I bring them out for a tight fit with a file and sandpaper. Even though they are very tightly-pressed fit, I still like to use some silicone or the likes to aid in adhesion to the cabinet.

Do not apologize for asking questions about this stuff, you were right in doing so. Better to ask now and get it done right the first time than to not ask and have to post a longer, more embarrassing post about how you srewed things up for not asking.

Noidster

[Shawn A]

Let's put it this way. I love what I've seen so far with my HT1 kits. I got the boxes built up this morning and the crossovers are finito! For the money you spend you are getting a huge bargain in my book. Add up the cost of the drivers if you would buy them separately. Compare that to the price of the kit and you will see what I mean. The crossover components are also top notch. Solen caps and coils make me smile.

I think once things die down a bit and I have the time and cash waiting to be used I will order up an HT3 kit. I'm just that impressed with Al and what he has put together.

And the cherry on top of the whole package is dealing with Al! Super nice dude who knows more than is decent. He won't do you wrong and chances are you will learn a lot from him.

Enjoy your kit and happy building!

shawn

[Cacophonix]

Hi,

The construction diagram does not mention the outer diameter of the extremis woofer nor the rabbet depth. Only the cut out is mentioned as 5.75".

I looked at the extermis data sheet, and the cut out is mentioned as 5.79", rabbet depth is .25", and the outer diameter is 6.95" (~7").
So can I follow this measurement and do the woofer cut out?

Thanks!

[RAW]

Thanks for picking that up I will get them up dated.
Use a 6" cut out.
With a 1/2" rabbet bit set  at .220" depth for a flush mount.
If you are veneering subtract the thickness of your veneer to retain a flush mount to your veneer.
This will give you the proper cut out of 7" diameter and the depth.

[Cacophonix]

Thanks for reponses, Al!

I bought the MDF from HD, and had them cut it too.
But as expected, they screwed up the top/braces. There is no consistency, and most of them are cut short by 1/8 of an inch. I am not sure if this is okay ... so I'll be cutting the top/braces myself. Its very hard to maintain consistency over 24 .75" and .5" thick MDF braces!

Assuming that cabinet building goes well, I've a couple of quick questions abt veneering. I read Al's responses at GR-Research forum abt places where I can buy veneer. www.tapeease.com sure does have a range of choices, and the prices seem nice too. I've never worked with veneers. My last speaker project was done using vinyl sheets  

I see different types of veneers ... 10mil, 22mil, 2ply, nbl etc. Can any experienced woodworker suggest which wud be the easiest to work with?
Which is flexible enough to be able to wrap around the rounded edges?

I'd appreciate any veneering 101 links  

[Shawn A]

My HT1's are my first foray into the once-scary world of veneering. So far so good. They should be done by this weekend and ready (finally!!!) for some listening. I learned a ton from Lou Corragio's little veneering tutorial he wrote up. It's saved my sanity more than once so far. Here's the link in case you want to read up on his advice. Have fun!

http://www.lonesaguaro.com/speakers/VeneerTutorial.pdf

shawn

[Cacophonix]

Great link ... the file does seem very good. Thanks!
Is there a way to work around using contact cement? I live in an apt complex, and need something thats not as hazardous or smelly as CC.

[Shawn A]

I wish I had better news for ya but I firmly believe that the dangerous, smelly and and explosive stuff is the best you are gonna find. Is there a playground or small outdoor area near your apartment where you could set up shop temporarily? There is no way I would use the stuff indoors especially if you have natural gas service in the building. Pilot lights are not contact cement's friends. ':flame:'

good luck
shawn