Ok Tyson, here is your recommended instruction, depending the outcome of your solvent test. If everything is good and stable, here is your repaint process for your type of color change. Sorry it's a little wordy, just like to be thorough.
For starters, sand speaker with ~400g sandpaper. Can be on a DA sander or by hand. MKe sure it is fully uniform scratched but don't dig in on the corners. Last thing we need is big cut-throughs in the no-no corner zones.
Chase sanding scratches with gray scotchbrite pads. This step puts little micro scratches inside the sandpaper scratches. Make sure everything is uniform dull finish. Make sure to tuck back in the nooks and crannies on the backside.
Wipe with wax and grease remover and dry THOROUGHLY with a clean dry rag. Work in small sections to be sure solvent does not dry on the panel. Very bad things happen if wax and grease remover dries on the panel. After that, chase panel with tack rag before sealer.
Using your gun with the 1.5mm nozzle, apply one consistent closed coat of gray or black sealer. Keep spray gun material turned down a little bit so you don't get runs.
Let sealer flash off for 30-60 minutes. If you have small imperfections like dust or texture, let sealer flash off fully, then lightly sand imperfection with 800g sandpaper in single direction strokes and allow to flash again. Don't rush that extra flash time as urethane sealer can wrinkle if rushing too fast.
Lightly wipe with tack rag to keep any dust off the surface.
With the 1.3mm nozzle on your gun, apply charcoal basecoat in probably 3 medium coats. Keep consistent distance and application speed to avoid streaky and blotchy color. Also make sure you're doing probably 75% overlap of each pass back and forth. Make sure your basecoat flashes for probably 10min between coats but goes uniformly matte before spraying next coat.
Once you're done with that, let your basecoat sit for about an hour before clearcoat.
For clearcoat, mix your clear and hardener to appropriate satin gloss mix ratio. Fully flat (matte) clear of 0-10% gloss will appear chalkboard flat. Satin gloss will be 20-30% which will give a low luster but still look smooth and consistent, and color correct. Given what you mentioned earlier, satin would be my recommendation.
So, once you mix your clearcoat, apply one wet coat with a very tight overlap to eliminate streaking. With low gloss finishes, you must wait for clearcoat to flash off and become uniformly matte before applying your second coat. Most likely 10-20min between coats. If you apply your next coat with the first still a little splotchy appearance, you will make it forever shiny and inconsistent. But let the first coat flash smooth and flat, apply a second coat exactly the same, and walk away. Don't touch it, don't look at it funny, don't call it dirty names for at least a few hours. Keep the fans blowing across it the whole time to help it set consistently. If everything comes out clean eith no hugs, dust or smudges, pat yourself on the back. Give it at least 24-48hrs before reassembling drivers back in.
I'll message you a materials quote in just a few.
