Recapped Bugle

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ohenry

Recapped Bugle
« on: 29 May 2005, 05:03 pm »
Hi Jim and all,
Just a note to relate my experience regarding changing capacitors in my stock Bugle.  I while back, Jim stated that a meaningful upgrade may be to change the caps at the C1-6 positions.  So, I installed six Auricaps and listened.  These caps were of the same values as the originals.

Immediately, I noticed more air and detail.  Also, the bass is a little stronger and more defined.  Cumulatively, these improvements seem to create more dynamics.

Then, I decided to play with some hook up wire.  I substituted some 30 ga. gold-plated beryllium copper alloy for the original 24 ga. silver-plated copper.  Increased detail, but dissappointing bass. :cry:   Then I threaded some 23 ga solid silver (7 9's pure) in teflon tubing and it became apparent that the silver was the ticket.  Nice, smooth and natural from top to bottom, extended highs and lows, and great detailed presentation without being dry.

I didn't have any nice quality copper to try, but I have doubts of it working any better in my system.

Thanks to Jim for pointing out the most effective mod, another way to make this value-leading product even better.

Edit:  Here's a picture.  BTW, installed a new 2604 opamp on the output stage and it sounds a bit cleaner in the highs. :)


pkonin

  • Jr. Member
  • Posts: 5
Auricaps
« Reply #1 on: 17 Jun 2005, 02:30 pm »
I just completed a bugle, and I wouldn't mind playing around with some upgrades.  The Auricaps are 450V, but the original caps are 50V.  Is that a problem?

-PK

ohenry

Recapped Bugle
« Reply #2 on: 18 Jun 2005, 12:13 pm »
Not a problem.  You want to make sure that any cap used is rated at least 1.5 times the predicted highest voltage.  Most signal caps of this type are going to be rated above 200 volts from my limited experience.

If you try the Auricaps, make sure to orientate the leads properly,  In signal applications, black = input.

Have fun...

Laudanum

  • Jr. Member
  • Posts: 32
Recapped Bugle
« Reply #3 on: 23 Jun 2005, 04:52 pm »
I wonder if the bass dropping out was more a matter of the smaller 30 guage wire vs. the 24 guage rather than silver vs. copper.  I use silver and believe it has it's merits so I'm not coming from the skeptical of wire/sonics differences camp.  Just in this case I'm not so sure I would attribute the bass drop to the different wire materials when the guages were quite different.  Just a thought, that's all.

pkonin

  • Jr. Member
  • Posts: 5
Twisting the silver wires
« Reply #4 on: 23 Jun 2005, 05:17 pm »
I noticed that you didn't twist the signal wires.  Have you experimented with twisting them?  I twist mine, only because I've read that it pays to twist all the wires.  I'd be curious to know what the sonic differences are or would be.  I'd experiment with mine, but I have everything twisted and soldered in a way that...it's a bit of a mess!

-PK

hagtech

Recapped Bugle
« Reply #5 on: 23 Jun 2005, 05:54 pm »
Twisting wires is mainly for reducing loop area for magnetic field coupling.  The idea is that at each turn, the loop reverses, so you get a bucking effect.  The magnetic interference on each turn cancels that of the previous one.  Mostly for hum elimination.

Twisting also has the second benefit of keeping the conductors equally spaced, which maintains transmission line parameters.  CAT5 ethernet wire is a good example of this.  Allows you to run high frequency signals with fidelity.  The transmission line doesn't need the twist, only the tension developed to hold pair together.

jh :)

ohenry

Recapped Bugle
« Reply #6 on: 23 Jun 2005, 07:36 pm »
Good point about the gauge being much smaller and the bass issue.

As for the wire twisting... I thought of twisting these, but it was a little awkward since this is unisulated wire inserted into teflon tubing.  In the end there is no hum and it sounds good.  I suppose having the power supply in another enclosure helps keep things quiet.

Edit - I can't spell...