[NXSTUDIO-DRUMMER]

Step bit or twist bit to drill your aluminum?

I’m pretty interested in learning more about working with Aluminum specifically for enclosures, etc, but realistically, I’ll just be using more basic, powered woodworking tools and hand tools. I’ve been doing some searching online as well, does anybody have a really good link or source for good basics or entry level type tutorials? 😇🤔

Step bits are typically better suited to drilling thinner aluminum sheets, it also deburs the aluminum too. Drilling thicker aluminum stock is better suited using a twist bit. Regardless of bits used, a center punch is recommended for accuracy. Cutting lubricant increases the lifespan of your drill bits. If your drilling aluminum stock thicker than 1/2", a drill press will benefit you substancially, keeping the hole drilled accurately to your specifications.

[nlitworld]

Made all the changes today, case looks fantastic...... but it doesn't fire. Not sure if I toasted a part on the board or if the little tiny button on the front of the board actually does something as a safety measure. ¯\_(ツ)_/¯   There is power to the board, the main cap has 58v across it, but can't verify power after that and no lights or any sound. I didn't pull off the volume pot just yet, as I figured baby steps in mods. Either way, I'll do some troubleshooting to find out and worst case scenario I start over after buying another for $80.

But it looks great in there. And yes I know I accidentally drilled the board a little crooked. 





P.S. if anyone is planning to desolder anything on this board, you'll want a minimum 60w 750° iron as their lead free solder sucks to melt. I went and bought a big fat Weller 900° gun just because of this.

[NIGHTFALL1970]

That looks so freaking cool!!😎 👍🤟

[NXSTUDIO-DRUMMER]

Lloyd,
If you need attenuator / switch extenders, here is one example available. I've personally never used them, therefore do your research to make sure they're a legitimate bussiness. https://www.audiyo.com/ext-kit.html

[nlitworld]

Yeah my end goal is to remove the volume attenuator from the circuit rather than using an extender. If I need to keep it in there, I'll just keep it tucked inside the case with the volume up to max. I probably could scooch it back a little to limit cable lengths but wasn't super worried at the moment. Always a good tip though.

Just in case I did something legit bad, I have another on the way from Amazon. Joys of inexpensive items, trial and error is not a concern. Hoping to tear into the other one tomorrow night to figure what I did though.

[nlitworld]

It's alive! Sometimes you do a big oopsie somewhere and just need to start with a new board. Snagged a new one, mods all redone as well, and just left the DC input and wired a plug. I'll let it play for a while, before assessing difference, but right now it sounds great and looks even better. 

P.S. I still say doing these mods necessitates dual soldering irons. Also the little tiny button tab near the high pass knob is actually a ground connection. That's now hard wired to a star ground in the middle (purple wire).

-Lloyd

[nlitworld]

Update: after a week of playing off & on (probably 40 hrs) it's leaving a bit to be desired with a case of the uglies. Granted, I did get a new unit and reassembled the mods, plus the LPS really gives some serious oomph to everything. BUT, it's also currently highlighting some S's and T's a bit hot. Hoping everything calms down in a week or so, otherwise I'll maybe roll stock opamps back in and look at capacitor swap to try and smooth things out. I'm guessing I just made too much of a good thing with all the detail seeking combined with new board setting in. Just would like some more body in the 200-800hz range.

Right now, there are lots of things awesome about it as it's very articulate with TONS of kick down low. Fingers crossed 🤞 it smooths out a bit over next week or two. It's all good as my pre has tone controls, so the treble knob is just a little turned down.

EDIT* I did just figure out that my first amp that I messed up was a V3 dated 4/10/25 and my "new" one recently assembled is a V2 dated 1/08/25 and I did notice some differences in the circuit designs. Most notably around the low pass filter section but a few others elsewhere on the board. Weird that I would get a previous gen model even when I purchased both through Amazon roughly 4 months apart.

[NXSTUDIO-DRUMMER]

Update: after a week of playing off & on (probably 40 hrs) it's leaving a bit to be desired with a case of the uglies. Granted, I did get a new unit and reassembled the mods, plus the LPS really gives some serious oomph to everything. BUT, it's also currently highlighting some S's and T's a bit hot. Hoping everything calms down in a week or so, otherwise I'll maybe roll stock opamps back in and look at capacitor swap to try and smooth things out. I'm guessing I just made too much of a good thing with all the detail seeking combined with new board setting in. Just would like some more body in the 200-800hz range.

Right now, there are lots of things awesome about it as it's very articulate with TONS of kick down low. Fingers crossed 🤞 it smooths out a bit over next week or two. It's all good as my pre has tone controls, so the treble knob is just a little turned down.

EDIT* I did just figure out that my first amp that I messed up was a V3 dated 4/10/25 and my "new" one recently assembled is a V2 dated 1/08/25 and I did notice some differences in the circuit designs. Most notably around the low pass filter section but a few others elsewhere on the board. Weird that I would get a previous gen model even when I purchased both through Amazon roughly 4 months apart.

Lloyd,
Being you have a new LPS and new A5, your correct,  it will take some time to burn both components in. In my case, my LPS Acopians had been used in a recording studio environment extensively, with many hours of usage. Therefore, they didn't require burn in time, luckily.

Have you noticed how much cooler the A5 is operating, now it's being powered with a LPS, versus a GaN power supply? Mine is literally a 100% cooler. Good to hear you have it operational now, so you can enjoy the benefits of you efforts put forth, on your DIY build. I like the wood chassis. Have you finished the wood, by staining and applying a finish coat yet?

[nlitworld]

So chassis is all sealed with some minwax polyurethane stain. Nothing fancy, but it richened the color a little. The amp runs super cool in the new case. The bottom is aluminum sheet and barely over room temp to the touch.

As for preamp and cables, it's a legit tube preamp with tube rectification. I do have Gold Lion 12ax7 and nos RCA 5751 tubes in there which arent exactly known for smooth and mellow sound either. Cables are GR Research IC8 which are all copper but very articulate. I could try and swap my Hapa Ember cables in the mix but sound signature is very similar of articulate clear copper.

As for the sound of the amp itself, my plan is to let it burn in a couple weeks, also keeping it on 24/7 for a few days to see if it's better that way. I also found where I messed the old board up in the front corner, so I'll try to mend it (scary tiny smd resistor soldering). If that does work again, I'll swap back to V3. Douk did confirm some changes for bass response between the two, as well as the V2 low pass is 30-300 vs the V3 being 30-200 filter. All in all, the V3 was definitely better, but not exactly worth buying yet another just to get that board back.

So yeah, plans are to let it burn in, also set some nice miflex low pass caps in there (~8K ohm input) so a couple 0.22uf are on their way from Sonic Craft. If I really get bored, I'll swap those Nichicon for a set of small poly caps just for fun. Experimenting is worth the $30 just to tinker. If I was looking outright best sound, I'd look elsewhere. This is a fun little project and great to listen how each component changes the sound.

The good news of all this is it's pointing out I need to build my EL84 amp. 

[NXSTUDIO-DRUMMER]

FUN FACT!
https://www.audiology.org/the-loudest-known-sound-ever/

[nlitworld]

Mini-update. The sharpness is gone. Not sure if new board needed breaking in, new gigantic LPS caps needed to soften, or if leaving the amp on for 4 days straight has helped, but it sounds really really good now.

BUT, I'll have more break in time required after more upgrades next week. Just hope everything fits in this case...  Stay tuned.

[nlitworld]

Soooo, I went all out on goodies last week and installed today. I'm done, this is rad and I'm not messing any more. New updates are Miflex high pass caps (0.22 for around 90hz rolloff), Clarity CSA caps for replacing those Nichicon KZ caps, and updated the grounding scheme to also go through the LPS. Now everything is dead silent BLACK background, smooth taper roll off, and way smoother and richer sound. I'm super happy with the sound.

All in, I'm probably $600 invested for everything if you don't count count labor hours cause was just fun tinkering time. Most would say silly investment, but I'll loan it to "Douk It Out" if you'd like to spin for yourself.  Just let me get some burn in time on it with latest updates.

[NIGHTFALL1970]

Lloyd,
You need therapy, but I love ❤️ it!

[Jon L]

All in, I'm probably $600 invested for everything

Looking at the amp prices at Capital Audio Fest running easily in 5-6 figures, that's a bargain 

[Danny Richie]

Excellent work.

I bet it sounds really good.

[NXSTUDIO-DRUMMER]

.

[NXSTUDIO-DRUMMER]

Some preamplifiers do not have sub-outputs, which is no problem. Here is a easy solution, by adding this splitter, your cabpable of connecting to both the A5 and your pair of subwoofers simultaniously. I've noticed AudioQuest selling a nice one, and then I found the exact samething on Amazon selling for less, with literally no difference in performance. I have both, so I no first hand! Save your money and buy from amazon this one.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07TBT6QC4?ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_fed_asin_title

Here is AudioQuest packaging of the same product.

[snaimpally]

Based on shared experiences between the various Acopian LPS's, the A24H850 is the most practical for those on a budget. I received some data from a friend I sold my old Acopian A24H850 LPS. He took some measurements using the NIOSH Sound level meter app, I've provided for download on a later thread on here. The reason being it could be a general reference tool for anyone interested.

Thanks!. Just ordered an A24H850 from eBay.

[beatboy77]

Ordered As Well

[NXSTUDIO-DRUMMER]

Thanks!. Just ordered an A24H850 from eBay.

Enjoy,
If you have any questions and need any assistance I'll be glad to help, just PM me.