[daopi]

After you guys assured me that there is no gooey mess when cutting with table saw I tried it too. Thanks for advice! Works great on the new NoRez. Feels like cutting soft plastic. Few recommendation for somebody who never tried it:
1. Use eye protection. This material showers you with pretty big particles but no dust.
2.

I can only see heat build-up being a concern if one languishes through the cut. It's never been a concern on the stuff I've cut. It's not gooey like bitumen or asphalt based stuff.
I will tell you that the the old NoRez damping layer was somewhat abrasive so dulled my steel bandsaw blade fairly rapidly when compared to wood. Carbide tipped table saw blade seemed unaffected although, theoretically, it would accelerate wear.

I used a 7 1/4 inch framing blade for circular saw, half worn out, maybe missing a tooth or two. Thin kerf. Worked perfect, fast. All the mess is relatively easy to clean with a brush. Also I vacuumed each piece of norez after cutting as has lots of mess I don't want inside the speaker.

[Presb4]

Corndog, I ran out right at the end. The brutes take a lot of Norez LOL.

[Presb4]

Did you put the back on before adding insulation?

I built the entire speaker minus the front, I then added the norez, then added the crossovers in the base of the cabinets, then wired them all up, then added pink fiberglass insulation batting on top of the norez. Then I glued the front baffles on with the wires hanging out the front.

[Danny Richie]

Looking good on that Brute build!

[robwm]

After cutting on a table saw, I can tell you it cut very nicely and with ease. It is a bit messy and be sure not to feed the material through too quickly. Also, be sure you are using a carbide finishing blade with 60 or more teeth. My blade has 60-teeth (like Danny's) and it cuts with no problem as long as you don't push it through too fast. I'll post my speakers with No-Rez once I am finished with that part. I had to order one more sheet of no-rez because it seems I don't have enough to insulate my speakers like the Brutes shown above.

[robwm]

@Presb4,

Did you use DuraTex for the speaker cutouts? I'm not sure how to finish the speaker cutouts so the bare wood is not showing/protected.

Thank you,

Rob

[czechm8]

After cutting on a table saw, I can tell you it cut very nicely and with ease. It is a bit messy and be sure not to feed the material through too quickly. Also, be sure you are using a carbide finishing blade with 60 or more teeth. My blade has 60-teeth (like Danny's) and it cuts with no problem as long as you don't push it through too fast. I'll post my speakers with No-Rez once I am finished with that part. I had to order one more sheet of no-rez because it seems I don't have enough to insulate my speakers like the Brutes shown above.

That is absolutely the way to go.  I first tried a utility knife, and that didn't go so well.
Took to the table saw or arm saw with a good carbide blade (60+tooth as mentioned).  Example below:

[Peter J]

@Presb4,

Did you use DuraTex for the speaker cutouts? I'm not sure how to finish the speaker cutouts so the bare wood is not showing/protected.

Thank you,

Rob

Not Presb4, but something to consider is the clearance between driver frame and cabinet. Depending on how rabbets are cut, it could be easy to get finish build-up in the rabbet that will give you fits when you go to mount the driver. One could either color that area black with a marker or thin paint prior to Duratex or swab the area out with Q-tip or small brush while applying the goopy stuff. It doesn't really require sealing, but coloring black will give best visual result. I've also spray-canned black prior to finishing.

[robwm]

I did give some consideration to build-up and thank you for bringing that up.

I was thinking about just getting some spray paint because it wouldn't take enough to cause any build-up. I was curious if DuraTex is a bad idea, and it sounds like it if you're not very careful.

[hk29]

I cut some No-Rez yesterday with a razor blade.  I cut the rubber side with Utility Knife (with the triangular blade) and then use box cutter (with the longer blade the snap of blades) to go through the foam.  Unfortunately the box cutter did well in the first few cuts, but I couldnt get a clean cut at the end because the foam just its not firm enough.  I can see a band saw or table saw doing better.  I haven't cut the angles on the No rez for the top piece that fits in the open baffle space for the tweeter as I want a smooth cut on that one since its visible.  I might have to pull out the bandsaw and give it try; but I have a feeling that I had to cut the No rez with the angle not post since there'll be even less material holding it back.  I woudn't let any get scared from using No-Rez, its not that bad to cut with a blade.  I'm glad to see that not all cuts are smooth like mine  

When are "pre-cut" No-Rez coming to market?   The NX studio flat pack was a breeze to put together; I spend 3x the time cutting the no-rez then gluing the box haha.  It's all in the fun.