[mix4fix]

I have this GE dryer. The timer knob has been stripped out, so I have bee using pliers to set the drying time. It finally broke beyond use.

If you look at the picture, my dryer had the part with "CK23". The part I was given does not have the "CK23" connection. I replaced it, secured that wire, and clothes are drying. What is that connection for? What option is now missing?

[rotarius]

According to the picture, the new part has the terminal and the old one does not but you posted the opposite?  In any case, I replaced a GE timer last year.  I ordered one from Amazon that was not OEM and since it is compatible with more models, it had a terminal or two that were unused.  It works great.  Smoother than the original.  Only difference is the old one buzzed twice at the end of.the cycle, new one buzzes once.

[mix4fix]

The old/broken part had the extra terminal, but the one supplied did not have that terminal. The wire went to something mounted on in the bottom of the control section area with only two wires. I removed the unused wire for safety reasons.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=M05SoXsPGbs

1:33

That is the black wire going to the extra terminal. This is the best video I can find showing the timer wiring (but a different dryer) except my extra wire "device" is mounted on the bottom of the control section (and not the control panel).

[Digi-G]

Who knows.  I've thought dryers have been over-designed for a while now (I'm a designer).  All they really need to do is rotate, get warm and move air.

The latest model from Samsung uses AI.  No, really.

Our AI Optimal Dry cycle uses 9 sensors to automatically sense temperature and humidity inside the drum,* making sure your laundry is optimally dried.
Samsung's easy to use, AI Smart Dial simplifies your dryer's control panel, learns and recommends your favorite cycles,* and allows you to customize your cycle list, making laundry day a breeze.

[AVnerdguy]

It was probably a GND/static discharge terminal and was connected to that stud next to the terminal and went back to another point via the BLK wire you disconnected. If you have an Ohmeter you can measure where the BLK wire that you disconnected was to the dryer metal chassis using the X1 resistance setting and you should read very low Ohms (1-2 Ohms). GND points were usually bronze/copper colored and signal/hot terminals were tin/silver colored.

[SoaringBear]

I like the old designs. Simple is better for me. And it doesn't break. My Whirlpool washer and dryer are 28 years old and my fridge is 30 years old.