[Early B.]

OP -- I spent a couple of decades constantly trading out power cords, so you may have a long road ahead. It won't be long until you cross the $1K threshold to pay for a silly power cord. You'll convince yourself it sounds better (and it probably does, until it doesn't...). A quick story -- I bought a $1K plus power cord for my power conditioner, and it sounded fantastic. It had the uber-expensive Furutech pixie dust on the connectors. Recently, I sold it and replaced it with a DIY cable and it sounded too bright. I replaced the DIY cable with the stock cable that came with the power conditioner, and the magic in my music reappeared. That's the problem -- any change you make in your system can alter the sound in other areas, and you'll spin in the upgrade vortex forever. 

My advice -- build a few more of those custom cables that you like, use a variety of connector brands, and move on with your life.   

     

[FullRangeMan]

OP -- I spent a couple of decades constantly trading out power cords, so you may have a long road ahead. It won't be long until you cross the $1K threshold to pay for a silly power cord. You'll convince yourself it sounds better (and it probably does, until it doesn't...). A quick story -- I bought a $1K plus power cord for my power conditioner, and it sounded fantastic. It had the uber-expensive Furutech pixie dust on the connectors. Recently, I sold it and replaced it with a DIY cable and it sounded too bright. I replaced the DIY cable with the stock cable that came with the power conditioner, and the magic in my music reappeared. That's the problem -- any change you make in your system can alter the sound in other areas, and you'll spin in the upgrade vortex forever. 

My advice -- build a few more of those custom cables that you like, use a variety of connector brands, and move on with your life.

+1 Nice post.
You'll convince yourself it sounds better (and it probably does, until it doesn't.
Very true.

As a side note years a go I made a inexpensive power cable with cheap solid wiring AWG 10 x3, it didn’t sound wonderful to be frank, then I cleaned the contacts cable and passed a famous contact conditioner liquid, immediately the cable started to sound fantastic even the music dynamics increased, to my disappointment the improvement was so ephemeral when dramatic the enhancement lasted only 2 to 3 hours. So after almost 2 year it started sound good.

[Zuman]

Excellent work, North4 - thank you!
One question (I may have missed the information): In your review comments, which components were actually fed by the power cable in question...one of them, some of them, all of them? And was there consistency in sound difference depending on which component was powered by any specific cable?
Thank you.

[NORTH4]

Good luck in your endeavor, but as a baseline, you may want to throw in something like Volex 17604 14AWG, the oldie made-in-Mexico (not current Chinese) cord with brass-color connector blades and softer jacket.  I know it's difficult to find...

Ill keep an eye out. If you happen to see one, let me know.

[NORTH4]

OP -- I spent a couple of decades constantly trading out power cords, so you may have a long road ahead. It won't be long until you cross the $1K threshold to pay for a silly power cord. You'll convince yourself it sounds better (and it probably does, until it doesn't...). A quick story -- I bought a $1K plus power cord for my power conditioner, and it sounded fantastic. It had the uber-expensive Furutech pixie dust on the connectors. Recently, I sold it and replaced it with a DIY cable and it sounded too bright. I replaced the DIY cable with the stock cable that came with the power conditioner, and the magic in my music reappeared. That's the problem -- any change you make in your system can alter the sound in other areas, and you'll spin in the upgrade vortex forever. 

My advice -- build a few more of those custom cables that you like, use a variety of connector brands, and move on with your life.   

   

Wow, full circle all the way back to the stock cable. Maybe i should get another safety deposit box so i don't lose mine. In all seriousness,

(and it probably does, until it doesn't...)

I'm sure resonates with a lot of us. Truly, i have a passion for diy audio. Settling on something that's just acceptable isn't me. I plan to experiment further with the Custom Cables while adding a few more to the lineup. Ill try to keep my feet on the ground Good advice though. When I settle on a cable(s), I will try different connectors.  Until I settle on a cable, I selected the Cardas because it not only sounded good initially but because I got a deal

[WGH]

I will try different connectors.

Viborg has a big selection of connectors made from different metals. Find out how different materials sound without breaking the bank. Everything Viborg makes is very high quality, I use the Viborg 1501 MBU series power cables recommended by Mick Wolfe. I also have Viborg locking banana plugs for my speakers. Hapa Audio uses Viborg for their high end cables.

I also use a couple of the original Volex 17604 power cords. Here is the post that started it all:
The 'Sarah Lee" approach to Power Cords
https://www.audiocircle.com/index.php?topic=15325.msg133273#msg133273

I have never heard the big differences you described between cables. The fat Viborg power cord has a little more bass than the stock 16 AWG cable that came with my amp but that's about all. I have all Van Alstine electronics and any changes made are very subtle from switching power cords to tube rolling in their preamps (it's a feature of Van Alstine electronics). Why did I change power cords? #1 - I was curious. #2 - Both the Volex and Viborg cable are shielded which helped control noise picked up by the unshielded RCA interconnects I was using at the time.


Viborg website
http://www.viborgaudio.com/en/

Amazon Viborg store
https://www.amazon.com/stores/page/3C15C420-3B1D-4B41-A665-5D40218F7E2E/?_encoding=UTF8&store_ref=SB_A0166031VSB3C8US1ZZU-A05294092CS9OOZNQJWX5&pd_rd_plhdr=t&aaxitk=43ddab30e0ba4ef75ec3184913ceb969&hsa_cr_id=1147740880601&lp_asins=B07RB168BR%2CB088T6P8YS%2CB088T4KB9P&lp_query=viborg&lp_slot=auto-sparkle-hsa-tetris&ref_=sbx_be_s_sparkle_lsi4d_cta&pd_rd_w=fQjHx&content-id=amzn1.sym.8591358d-1345-4efd-9d50-5bd4e69cd942%3Aamzn1.sym.8591358d-1345-4efd-9d50-5bd4e69cd942&pf_rd_p=8591358d-1345-4efd-9d50-5bd4e69cd942&pf_rd_r=7SACZ18DFE0MVJ4P7D9Y&pd_rd_wg=GaGmb&pd_rd_r=41fdce80-a82a-414c-8e02-9433c304ce04

[Early B.]

Viborg has a big selection of connectors made from different metals. Find out how different materials sound without breaking the bank. Everything Viborg makes is very high quality,

Agreed. Different connectors will provide different flavors, so you can mix & match them with your components.

Being a DIYer is good, so learn as much as you can from guys who know what they're doing. You're fortunate to not only have access to Jeff, but also Hapa Audio and Zenwave Audio here on AC. Each of these guys has always been generous with educating forum members and responding to questions. See if you can goad them into participating in a DIY cable thread where they pour their wisdom into teaching us what to look for in buying cables and what to consider when making them.   

[mjosef]

If you are DIY cables, you do need to build two of the same wires with one being reversed to determine 'direction', differences in sound will show up in soundstage depth+width and center image height. Applies to power cable and interconnects.
Another variable to contend with. Have fun!

[jmimac351]

I am using all Anticables Level 3 power cords.  They are thick bundles of the 17gauge wire with ultra thin dielectric.  Each leg is an 8awg leg.  It just so happens the 20% off coupon on the AntiCables site works.  Recently I bought a couple more 5' long Level 3 power cords for $264 each and I think $12 shipping.  Until I hear better, which will require a lot of expense and effort, I am "done" with power cords. 

The dynamics of my system get better every time I put an AntiCables product into it.  I've had some AntiCable Level 4.2 speaker wires for quite a while, but wasn't using them.  They are 9x 17awg wire with ultra thin dielectric.  Immediate improvement over what I was using when I put those speaker wires in. 

For power cords... I want "horsepower", if I have to pick one thing.  Hopefully it's shielded well enough / wound well enough to help with EMI/RFI.  I am running all Ayre Acoustics "R series" equipment.  One Level 3 power cord for DAC / Preamp / Each Monoblock amp.

One other thing about "OEM cables" that come with gear.  It's my understanding that some of them can be pretty good.  Yep, the plain black generic cables that comes with the bread bag twist tie on it.  Get under a light and look closely at it for the gauge of wire inside.  Ayre Acoustics has mentioned that the one they supply is not bad as far as those cords go, and they suggest folks try things.  I think the cord may be 14awg per leg, where most other generic black power cords are 16awg, if I recall correctly.

I also recall (a long time ago) Bob Crump from Audio Asylum had a power cord recipe.  (I have it somewhere).  Anyway, I remember reading Bob comment about "plain power cord" that came with some piece of equipment, and certain ones were better than others, and were worth seeking out or, in his case, he made his own recipe. 

So, with any generic cords, before assuming they are all the same when you have several in a pile in the closet to pick from... look closer at them - especially if it came with a "quality" piece of gear.

[NORTH4]

Excellent work, North4 - thank you!
One question (I may have missed the information): In your review comments, which components were actually fed by the power cable in question...one of them, some of them, all of them? And was there consistency in sound difference depending on which component was powered by any specific cable?
Thank you.

Thank you Zuman! I'm glad you brought this up, your right, i did not state which components were used. What i have written about the cables is my experience with them on the Technics SU-R1000 integrated. I felt this was a good place to start, i am still collecting my thoughts on the rest of the equipment. So far i have found the power conditioner generally reinforces the cables characteristics I heard on the integrated. I'm not ready to report on the source equipment quite yet

[NORTH4]

Viborg has a big selection of connectors made from different metals. Find out how different materials sound without breaking the bank. Everything Viborg makes is very high quality, I use the Viborg 1501 MBU series power cables recommended by Mick Wolfe. I also have Viborg locking banana plugs for my speakers. Hapa Audio uses Viborg for their high end cables.

Your right, It would be a good way to listen to the different materials. I'm familiar with Viborg, my hesitancy with them is their materials may not be a good reference when looking at other companies' offerings. I may try them once Ive narrowed down to a few cables.

I also use a couple of the original Volex 17604 power cords. Here is the post that started it all:
The 'Sarah Lee" approach to Power Cords
https://www.audiocircle.com/index.php?topic=15325.msg133273#msg133273

Thank you for sharing Occam’s post. This seems to be what Jon L was referring to with his Volex 17604 recommendation. Let me know if you see a Made in Mexico model for sale. Any idea on this one: www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Volex/17604-10-B1?qs=RPC3RGMGIuYJXK%252B9V8k%2FWg%3D%3D

I have never heard the big differences you described between cables. The fat Viborg power cord has a little more bass than the stock 16 AWG cable that came with my amp but that's about all. I have all Van Alstine electronics and any changes made are very subtle from switching power cords to tube rolling in their preamps (it's a feature of Van Alstine electronics). Why did I change power cords? #1 - I was curious. #2 - Both the Volex and Viborg cable are shielded which helped control noise picked up by the unshielded RCA interconnects I was using at the time.

I cant speak to your experience with the Viborg and Volex cable. In my system Ive found power cables to play a role in the final sound.

[NORTH4]

Being a DIYer is good, so learn as much as you can from guys who know what they're doing. You're fortunate to not only have access to Jeff, but also Hapa Audio and Zenwave Audio here on AC. Each of these guys has always been generous with educating forum members and responding to questions. See if you can goad them into participating in a DIY cable thread where they pour their wisdom into teaching us what to look for in buying cables and what to consider when making them.

Absolutely, we are fortunate to have a space that masters in the field can help us learn.

[NORTH4]

If you are DIY cables, you do need to build two of the same wires with one being reversed to determine 'direction', differences in sound will show up in soundstage depth+width and center image height. Applies to power cable and interconnects.
Another variable to contend with. Have fun!

Interesting. I followed specified orientation. Are your saying cables that do not specify a preferred orientation should be tried in both directions?

[WGH]

Best practices for shielded cables is to have the shield connected to ground at only one end otherwise a ground loop could happen. A direction arrow is used so a pair of interconnects will have both shields connected to the same item like an amp or preamp. Which piece of electronics the shield is connected to is up to the user. Same with power cables, the shield ground is attached at only one end. The pre-assembled Viborg 1501 power cable has the shield connected at the wall plug, I checked. I always check boutique power cables for polarity before using. Frank Van Alstine, who has been in audio way longer than I have, has mentioned he has seen power cables wired up with the wrong polarity.

[Jeff]

Best practices for shielded cables is to have the shield connected to ground at only one end

This is true anytime the shield is not directly involved with the signal.

otherwise a ground loop could happen.

Has nothing to do with ground loops.

A direction arrow is used so a pair of interconnects will have both shields connected to the same item like an amp or preamp.

This is not the only reason.  And, many cables are connected at both ends.

Same with power cables, the shield ground is attached at only one end. The pre-assembled Viborg 1501 power cable has the shield connected at the wall plug

That is where all should be unless one is going for some kind of crazy application specific situation.

I checked.

Visually, or...?

I always check boutique power cables for polarity before using. Frank Van Alstine, who has been in audio way longer than I have, has mentioned he has seen power cables wired up with the wrong polarity.

I would think he was referring to the Hot and Neutral being transposed, not some ground/shield connection.

[WGH]

Visually, or...?

I would think he was referring to the Hot and Neutral being transposed, not some ground/shield connection.

Thanks for the clarification. 
I use a meter to check hot and neutral

[Jeff]

I use a meter to check hot and neutral

Makes sense.  I was referring to where you said, "The pre-assembled Viborg 1501 power cable has the shield connected at the wall plug, I checked".

[NORTH4]

I am using all Anticables Level 3 power cords.

I was looking through the Anticable site when i started thinking, you mentioned

Until I hear better, which will require a lot of expense and effort, I am "done" with power cords.

Is it possible we could help each other out? You mentioned you had picked up a few more of the 5 footers. I would like to send you a pair of 5 footers. if they are tolerable, maybe you could loan me a single 5 footer for a week?

[jmimac351]

I was looking through the Anticable site when i started thinking, you mentionedIs it possible we could help each other out? You mentioned you had picked up a few more of the 5 footers. I would like to send you a pair of 5 footers. if they are tolerable, maybe you could loan me a single 5 footer for a week?

I have another friend sending interconnects to me so I'd like to leave things as they are for PC.  Paul is a very nice guy and, so far, I really like his cables.  I have a pair of his Level 4.2 speaker cables that I like, so I tried the power cables.  He has a generous return policy.

The interconnects being sent to me have silver/gold wire... and now I am wandering around looking at stuff like this: https://www.soniccraft.com/product_info.php/mundorf-sgw110wh-p-4895

[Speedskater]

It's best to only connect the shield at the audio component end.
That way it acts as an extension of the metal chassis's shield.
If connected at both ends, it becomes part of the Safety Ground/Protective Earth circuit and carries the same leakage current & noise as the S.G./P.E.
Connected only at the wall end, it doesn't accomplish much.