[Huskerbryce]

The Vfet is not mine.  It belongs to my friend.  He has many many boxes of nelson pass amplifier parts/kits in his basement.  We brought this one up today and did some bourbon and some music with it.  As far as what is under the hood, I will find out when I can.  Short answer is I dont know.

[Huskerbryce]

Sweet!  So that is yours?  Is that an N-Channel?

So I just found out that “Yes” it is an N channel.  He also has a P channel one.

[jmimac351]

.

[Jaytor]

I don’t think you have the speaker outputs connected correctly. If you have the positive phase corrected to one input and the negative phase connected to the other, you want to connect the positive speaker wire to the positive terminal of the channel that is connected to the positive phase of the balanced connection, and the other speaker connection to the positive speaker terminal of the other channel. The negative speaker terminals from both channels are connected together as you have them.

This is known as a bridge tied load.

This kind of connection can only be done with amplifiers that are not already bridge tied loads which generally means the negative speaker terminals are connected to signal ground.

[jmimac351]

.

[jmimac351]

.

[Jaytor]

Ok. I was assuming you were trying to get more power into a typical 8 ohm load. With a current amplifier, you can connect then this way to get more current output.

[jmimac351]

.

[mkrawcz]

Sticking with the Papa Pass theme, I just got a INT25 with the intent of it being an integrated for my bedroom system, now I think it’s going to be my reference.

[tom739]

Hi mkrawcz,

Do you have any more opinions on the BRZHifi A1S amp? I may get one. Have you done any mods to the amp?

Thanks.

[mkrawcz]

Hi mkrawcz,

Do you have any more opinions on the BRZHifi A1S amp? I may get one. Have you done any mods to the amp?

Thanks.

It has the A1 sound which sacrifices a touch of detail and pinpoint imaging for warmth and wide soundstage. It’s not an endgame amp, but it’s a good deal at that price point for someone wanting to get into class A with a limited budget. The only mod I did was to bypass the volume pots which is as simple as unplugging and swapping some wires. I’m sure if I was to replace all the cheap Chinese parts on the boards such as the steel leaded resistors the sound would get even better, but at that point the time and money goes up and you can build one of the First Watt clones from Diyaudio. I will also mention that I got a BRZHIFI Hood 1969 which is a 10 watt class an amp for the same price. I think it’s a step up from the A1S as long as it’s enough power for your speakers.

[tom739]

Thanks for the info mkrawcz.