[JCarney]

...connectors for the back side of the plug for an electrostatic speaker? If solder, do I use a regular tin solder, or will Cardas solder be ok? Pic included.

Thanks for any and all help,
JCarney

[nlitworld]

Personally I'd solder it with Cardas solder and call it a day. It seems any time I can remove crappy plug connectors it's for the better. Just my $0.02.

[JCarney]

Thanks for the response nlitworld. I was leaning in that direction, but since I was a little unsure, I felt I needed to ask. I will proceed then.

Thanks again nlitworld,
JCarney

[FullRangeMan]

Just avoid leadfree solder due micro  cracks.

[JCarney]

Thanks for the heads up Fullrangeman.

JCarney

[rif]

I was always under the impression that they had to be female crimp connections, for safety reasons?  at least that's the only way I've seen it done in my limited experience.

[Mike B.]

I would also recommend soldering. Be careful to not overheat the pins and loosen them from the plastic housing. Use the solder that has the lower melt temp to help avoid this.

[JCarney]

Thank You Mike B. With that advice, I've decided to treat it like a driver terminal, very carefully.  Good advice from all of you, Thanks ever so much Gentlemen.

JCarney

[richidoo]

Since you mentioned using "standard solder" I thought I'd mention that you should always use a eutectic solder for electrical connections and electronics. That means Cardas or other hifi solder, or at least 63/37 solder.
60/40 is not eutectic and not suitable for electrical connections.
Make sure the circuit is fused because overcurrent melt and disconnect the solder joint.  If there is a hole in the IEC tabs, run the wire through there for a mechanical connection before soldering.

[JCarney]

Man I love this site. Thank You richidoo. There are holes and I did intend on utilizing them. I'm now better informed and will remember eutectic solder only for electrical connections. Something until now I did not know. Thanks for providing your help once again. I think this is the third, possibly fourth time you have provided solid info to help me with my projects.

JCarney

[rif]

I've also read its good practice to keep the ground wire longer than the hot and neutral wires, again for safety, in case strain relief fails. the thought is that if the hot/neutral comes loose, there is a clear path to ground.

you're probably best off checking with the experts at diyaudio.com

[JCarney]

Thank You rif. That is an excellent safety measure to mention. In this case there is only hot and neutral with no ground, straight from the socket to the pcb with just the two leads coming from the pcb. I will make a note of that safety measure and employ it when the need arrises in the future.

Thanks,
JCarney

[Wayner]

Soldering wires directly to an IEC socket may melt and damage the connector. I always crimp and heat shrink wires to appropriate terminals.

[JCarney]

Thank You Wayner, you've given me more to consider. Very helpful bunch here on good ole AC.

JCarney

[FullRangeMan]

A interesting article on the lead free solder prob:
https://www.militaryaerospace.com/home/article/16708161/leadfree-solder-a-train-wreck-in-the-making

[Speedskater]

In the rules & regs world, the Safety Ground/Protective Earth wire must be permanently bonded (not removable) at both ends. Because with high short-circuit current the solder could melt.

In the real world solder is often used.

[JCarney]

Thank You Speedskater and Fullrangeman for your input and the link. I did a little reading last night, and I am leaning towards a proper crimp connection from the info I found poking around.

Thank You everyone,
JCarney