Line Force?

AKLegal · « **Reply #40 on:** 25 Oct 2022, 12:37 am »

If I could find 4 more Neo 10s I would seriously consider repurposing my Super 7 drivers toward a line force. Its just such a bummer that these drivers are not readily available anymore.

Jaytor · « **Reply #41 on:** 25 Oct 2022, 12:57 am »

Quote from: AKLegal on 25 Oct 2022, 12:37 am

If I could find 4 more Neo 10s I would seriously consider repurposing my Super 7 drivers toward a line force. Its just such a bummer that these drivers are not readily available anymore.

Yes, agreed. But the Super Seven is a damn nice sounding speaker on its own, and takes up a lot less room than the Line Force with OB subs.

Early B. · « **Reply #42 on:** 25 Oct 2022, 02:08 am »

Quote from: AKLegal on 25 Oct 2022, 12:37 am

If I could find 4 more Neo 10s I would seriously consider repurposing my Super 7 drivers toward a line force. Its just such a bummer that these drivers are not readily available anymore.

Do it!!! We'll help you find 4 more Neo 10's. Someone on this planet has two pairs sitting in their closet collecting dust.

Captainhemo · « **Reply #43 on:** 25 Oct 2022, 02:13 am »

Quote from: Jaytor on 24 Oct 2022, 10:51 pm

@Captainhemo can reply with the specific material. He told me it was a polycarbonate composite.

It's actually a Poly - Urathane composite, slightly denser than high quality MDF. It is very stable and basically water resistant, great edge integrity and when it is glued, it is actually fused so panels basically become one... no seams to show up down the road.
Unfortuanately, it is not cheap nor is the machining... each of those bases starts from a 24" x 24" x 6" solid block ... then spends approx 24 hrs on a 5 axis machine.

Do a search for " Updated Line Force" , a thread from when we first re-designed these speaker cabinets and searched for a composite that suited what we were after.
We put a ton of attention and detail into these, no edges left unfinished, everything finished with a nice tight 1/8" radius aside from verticle edges on front baffle which are .5".
Anyway, lots of info in that other thread

jay

Jaytor · « **Reply #44 on:** 25 Oct 2022, 09:55 pm »

The Crossover is going to be a very tight fit to get it on the crossover board. I think I have room to add some zip-ties for the big caps. The rest I'll probably have to use some other way to hold them in place.

The resistors and bypass caps are tucked under/behind the big caps so you can't see them, but I'm using 0.01uF Dueland tinned copper foil bypass caps for the big caps. I will probably also add a 0.1uF Miflex cap to bypass the Erse cap I'm using in the notch filter.

SoCalWJS · « **Reply #45 on:** 25 Oct 2022, 10:10 pm »

Quote from: Jaytor on 24 Oct 2022, 05:40 pm

That is some incredible work!

Hope that you (and others) can eventually find correct or suitable drivers to complete them.

Jaytor · « **Reply #46 on:** 25 Oct 2022, 10:15 pm »

Quote from: SoCalWJS on 25 Oct 2022, 10:10 pm

That is some incredible work!

Hope that you (and others) can eventually find correct or suitable drivers to complete them.

Yes, Don and Jay do nice work. Fortunately, I already have all the drivers. I bought them a couple years ago when Parts Express still had the NEO10 sporadically available.

Captainhemo · « **Reply #47 on:** 26 Oct 2022, 12:45 am »

Jay
Instead of drilling the boards and using tie wraps, I'd try using either clear silicon or even hot glue.... it would suck if drilling those boards ended up in paint chipping

Just an idea

jay

Jaytor · « **Reply #48 on:** 26 Oct 2022, 01:18 am »

I want to have something strongly mounted to the board, so I am using zip ties on the big caps. I drilled the holes under the caps so you can't see them from the top. This stuff drills very cleanly. No chipping at all.

I had planned to use non-acidic rubber cement, but hot glue is a good idea. I will probably try that on the other parts.

emailtim · « **Reply #49 on:** 26 Oct 2022, 01:35 am »

Quote from: Jaytor on 26 Oct 2022, 01:18 am

I want to have something strongly mounted to the board, so I am using zip ties on the big caps. I drilled the holes under the caps so you can't see them from the top. This stuff drills very cleanly. No chipping at all.

I had planned to use non-acidic rubber cement, but hot glue is a good idea. I will probably try that on the other parts.

You need semi-trailer ratcheting tie-down straps to keep monsters lashed down.

NoahH · « **Reply #50 on:** 26 Oct 2022, 02:13 am »

Jaytor - huge envy on this. Super excited to hear how this goes.

As a tangent, the giant caps trigger a weird thought for me for folks who do more crossovers and electronics: why do we not worry about caps next to the inductors? Caps, particularly ones like these big ones, are also giant windings of a conductor. Will those giant caps really not pick up any current from the inductor's fields?

Jaytor · « **Reply #51 on:** 26 Oct 2022, 11:58 pm »

Quote from: NoahH on 26 Oct 2022, 02:13 am

Jaytor - huge envy on this. Super excited to hear how this goes.

Me too.

Quote from: NoahH on 26 Oct 2022, 02:13 am

As a tangent, the giant caps trigger a weird thought for me for folks who do more crossovers and electronics: why do we not worry about caps next to the inductors? Caps, particularly ones like these big ones, are also giant windings of a conductor. Will those giant caps really not pick up any current from the inductor's fields?

The caps do have giant windings, but each winding is only connected at one place, so there isn't much opportunity to induce current. The caps will pick up a tiny bit of EMI (you can connect a scope probe across the cap leads), but it is very small. From an EMI perspective, it would probably be better to spread things out, but keeping the leads short will often have a bigger effect (at least in my experience).

Progress is being made. 88 screws and my finger tips are raw. The other speaker will have to wait a day or two. I ended up using #4 machine screws for the NEO3s and #6 machine screws for the NEO10s. Both 1/2" in length.

jn316 · « **Reply #52 on:** 27 Oct 2022, 12:10 am »

Sweet!

sortner · « **Reply #53 on:** 28 Oct 2022, 12:09 am »

Jay - Those look amazing. I was lucky to hear Jay's Oticas and was blown away by both the speakers, hospitality and his system, needless to say I built out some myself with the subs and they are incredible. Looking forward to seeing these finished and hearing your reaction to them. I can second that Jay and Don due outstanding work on their flat packs, as well as amazing customer service! Love to see more of their offerings on the web sight.

Steve

emailtim · « **Reply #54 on:** 28 Oct 2022, 01:47 am »

The drivers are bringing the color scheme all together in a big way. They look fantastic.

VinceT · « **Reply #55 on:** 28 Oct 2022, 01:56 am »

Gorgeous!

Jaytor · « **Reply #56 on:** 2 Nov 2022, 01:13 am »

I picked up a nasty respiratory virus on my trip back from BC. Fortunately, Jay, Don and company were spared, so probably picked it up on the way back home. It's slowed me down a bit on getting the speakers assembled. I've now got all the drivers installed, the left crossover is assembled, and the right is about 3/4s done. The Neotech wire I ordered from SonicCraft was supposed to arrive yesterday, but seems to be in the wind somewhere in the USPS system.

Each of the copper caps is bypassed with a 0.01uF Dueland tinned copper foil bypass cap. The large Erse film cap used in the notch filter is bypassed with a 0.1uF Miflex. Each crossover weighs 22 lbs.

Early B. · « **Reply #57 on:** 2 Nov 2022, 01:34 am »

Quote from: Jaytor on 2 Nov 2022, 01:13 am

Each crossover weighs 22 lbs.

This is the greatest sentence ever written on Audiocircle. I think I'm gonna cry...

Jaytor · « **Reply #58 on:** 2 Nov 2022, 02:12 am »

Quote from: Early B. on 2 Nov 2022, 01:34 am

This is the greatest sentence ever written on Audiocircle. I think I'm gonna cry...

Jaytor · « **Reply #59 on:** 2 Nov 2022, 02:13 am »

@bfs21 - tried to respond to your PM but your inbox is full.