[VinceT]

I have a pair of book shelves that have already been finished with veneer applied

Is it possible to remove the drivers and round the corners without causing too much of an issue and damage to veneer? Also I would need to paint or stain the areas that was routed.

 

[mcgsxr]

It will basically take routing off the edges.  That may or may not result in a perfect round over.

I have done it with DIY painted speakers and was "successful" as a DIY.  I was able to round off all edges and then repaint.

I wouldn't try it with veneer personally, could be some tearouts.

[Peter J]

I can envision how I might do roundovers on finished cabs, but unlikely to not need some touch-up or refinishing.

Bevel could be a little easier, if that is interesting to you. I'm working on a video of these, but, of course, it started as raw cabinets so would take a little different approach.

I could brief process if it looks like something you'd like to do.

[VinceT]

I can envision how I might do roundovers on finished cabs, but unlikely to not need some touch-up or refinishing.

Bevel could be a little easier, if that is interesting to you. I'm working on a video of these, but, of course, it started as raw cabinets so would take a little different approach.

I could brief process if it looks like something you'd like to do.

That would be great and very much appreciated Peter, I was hoping you would chime in 

[Peter J]

So bevels or roundovers? Contrast or match color?

Tools at your disposal? Table saw, router table, hand router, adz, leaf rake, excavator? Give me a clue here so I don't give you worthless advice.

Photo of potential victim?

[WGH]

Is it possible to remove the drivers and round the corners without causing too much of an issue and damage to veneer?

Short answer: No

Second opinion: Well, yes it can be done but will it look good, highly doubtful. A router roundover bit will leave chatter marks that need to be sanded smooth but there will be mistakes sanding that close to veneer. There will be surface veneer tears and possible blowouts at the beginning and end of the roundover unless you clamp block at each end. Climb cutting helps prevent tearouts but go too slow and burn the MDF or plywood, go too fast and the router takes off like a dragster, hold on tight. The bearing on the roundover will mar the veneers finish, tape will help but use the wrong tape and it will pull off the veneer when removed.

A bevel is easier. Use a guide with clamps and a sharp knife to score the veneer before beveling. Be aware that both the guide and knife will slip and slice the veneer at a spot you will see every day. 

[VinceT]

So bevels or roundovers? Contrast or match color?

Tools at your disposal? Table saw, router table, hand router, adz, leaf rake, excavator? Give me a clue here so I don't give you worthless advice.

Photo of potential victim?

The potential victim is a Fritz monitor, so if I decided to it I do not want to butcher to job and diminish the value of the speaker.

As far a round over or bevel, I believe they create the same desired result; so what would be easiest and best would be preferred (bevel?). I do not think I can match so perhaps contrast would be easiest. Right now I have a hand held router, I don't think that would cut the mustard with this job if I decide to do it.

[Jazzman53]

When I built my Ripole subs, I notched out the edges on the table saw and glued in some oak strips, then did rounded the edges on a router table with round-over bit.  Of course; my boxes were not already finished, and I imagine there would be somewhat of a pucker factor with running a perfectly fine pair of speakers thru a table saw

[Peter J]

Vince, I think for this to look like anything close to good, you'd have to figure on a refinish.

That said, I'd probably do this on a table saw. Tip blade into sacrificial fence and slice off bevel. Need many tooth (80-100) blade, flush throat plate and really parallel fence. This method can produce wood rockets coming straight back at whatever's at blade height so stand to the side.  Masking tape on cut lines probably not a bad idea. Not what I'd call an easy beginner technique.

From here I'd mask of finished area and glue on desired veneer with either Heat Lock or maybe contact glue. The heat can damage surroundng finish but is a hard glue line. Contact glue is soft but has other virtues. Then move onto refinishing.  If you're not well tooled or have experience with stuff like this, I would rethink the whole thing. If you can't make it look near perfect, you'll certainly affect value of the speakers when it comes time to resell.

I assume you're looking to minimize edge diffraction. It's a pretty big risk for little reward, maybe none. I can't help but think Fritz has given it a whirl at some point.

[WGH]

The potential victim is a Fritz monitor

Fritz makes a perfect little speaker, I've heard them many times. Why would you want to make it imperfect?
I doubt you would hear any difference with a round over or bevel.
What is your goal?

[VinceT]

Fritz makes a perfect little speaker, I've heard them many times. Why would you want to make it imperfect?
I doubt you would hear any difference with a round over or bevel.
What is your goal?

It is a nice speaker I really like it, this is why I would consider it

Would it be worth it? Would I hear it? Maybe, maybe not. If I can easily do it without mucking it up it maybe worth trying. Is the juice worth the squeeze? I don't know, maybe not but worth looking into IMO. The top end is already pretty nice, I have the BE tweeters. But can it be better?

You know how this hobby goes... why do we do anything. Look at what Tyson is doing to his X3 crossover mods. If you really like something, why not put a little time, effort, and money into it and make it a little better if you can.

Maybe its best just to build new boxes for them, and retain the old ones as original in case I decide to sell it or determine the front baffle modifications are not worth it.

[richidoo]

Rounding or beveling edges may improve appearance if that's what you're after, but to make a noticeable change in sound quality the radius of the rounded edges must be relatively large to avoid edge diffraction in the most audible mid to upper mid frequencies. The radius of the edge roundover is related to the frequency of edge diffraction. Diffraction causes distortions in frequency response and phase.

A spherical enclosure results in minimal diffraction and smoothest FR rolloff. You can easily hear the unique sound quality of a spherical enclosure, especially large ones. But it's difficult to make a spherical enclosure so the next best thing is rounding or beveling the edges of a rectangular box. But a 1/4" - 1/2"radius roundover will only affect the very highest frequencies and probably not worth ruining the wood finish, imo. More details: https://www.linkwitzlab.com/diffraction.htm
"The benefits of edge rounding come into play only when the radius is greater than 1/8th wavelength. Thus a typical 1/2 inch radius begins to diffuse the diffracted wave at frequencies above 3.4 kHz, but will decrease in relevance at higher frequencies, when the driver illuminates less of the edge due to its increasing directivity. With most speaker cabinets the radius or chamfer is acoustically
too small and is primarily cosmetic."

Fortunately, a beveled edge is almost as good at reducing edge diffraction as a rounded edge and a lot easier to make, and also easier to finish with a piece of veneer. But it still needs to be a wide bevel, similar to a large radius to affect noticeable sonic improvement.

The largest round radius edge I ever made was 1-1/4" radius, which I created by rough shaping with 3 cuts on the table saw, then sanding it to final round shape. It looks great and I really love the treble sound, I like to think it's because of the rounded edges.  
I have a 1-1/2" router bit I'm too afraid to use it. haha 

[Tyson]

If it were me I'd sell the Fritz speakers and use the money to get a pair of NX-Studio's.  IMO those are the best bookshelf speakers I've ever heard and a great platform to do things like crossover upgrades and other fun DIY type stuff.  The Fritz speakers are too beautiful to take a saw to them.

[WGH]

I have a 1-1/2" router bit I'm too afraid to use it. haha

As you should be. I got a few of those big bits, use them all the time. You need to make a special base for the router and take about 4 passes, lowering the bit each time.
You also need to use the biggest router made, I use a Porter-Cable 7518 router and set the speed to 12,000 rpm. Always scary as f**k. Been doing woodworking for 50 years, still scary.
http://www.wghwoodworking.com/

Vince - give Fritz a call and talk about your ideas. He is super friendly and easy going.

[VinceT]

As you should be. I got a few of those big bits, use them all the time. You need to make a special base for the router and take about 4 passes, lowering the bit each time.
You also need to use the biggest router made, I use a Porter-Cable 7518 router and set the speed to 12,000 rpm. Always scary as f**k. Been doing woodworking for 50 years, still scary.
http://www.wghwoodworking.com/

Vince - give Fritz a call and talk about your ideas. He is super friendly and easy going.

John is a super cool guy, he didn't think it was worth the trouble to round round them off. Its one of those things I probably won't do it, I really like the speakers and just thought it would be a fun project. Perhaps I will build a box for them and move the drivers closer together and make a front baffle for them and compare some measurements.

[Craig B]

If the cabinets are veneered, then rounding over the edges will remove the veneer at the corners (or what used to be the corners), and leave the substrate, whatever that is, exposed, including the edges of its plies, if it's a laminated product. The roundovers would look nothing like the sides, and would require veneer of their own to match. Then you've got to be concerned about color match, grain match, clean joints between the flat pieces and the curved, etc. etc.  Then there's the question of how sturdy the joinery will be with some portion of the material removed. And finally, you also need to be sure not to route a radius so large you completely remove the joined material, which would leave you with no joint left to refinish.

If I *really* wanted to do it, I'd find some super cheap garbage speakers to practice on first. Ones that are totally expendable without tears.

[VinceT]

I am not a wood worker by any means and this is not an easy job. Not worth wrecking the speaker or risk diminishing the workmanship of the creator.

I do really like the drivers and the crossover Fritz designed. If I do anything I would use another cabinet. Thank you to all who chimed in. You all more than answered my question.

[VinceT]

If it were me I'd sell the Fritz speakers and use the money to get a pair of NX-Studio's.  IMO those are the best bookshelf speakers I've ever heard and a great platform to do things like crossover upgrades and other fun DIY type stuff.  The Fritz speakers are too beautiful to take a saw to them.

I have some of upgraded Encores. To be honest the Fritz is better and not by a small margin. I know the Studios are different drivers, if they are better then the Fritz then they are a huge step up from the Encores. I know you heard both so that speaks highly for the Studios. I know you also think highly of Fritz's stuff as well.

[Tyson]

I have some of upgraded Encores. To be honest the Fritz is better and not by a small margin. I know the Studios are different drivers, if they are better then the Fritz then they are a huge step up from the Encores. I know you heard both so that speaks highly for the Studios. I know you also think highly of Fritz's stuff as well.

Yep, I agree the Fritz is a lot better than the Encores.  I wouldn't mess with them at all as they sound great as-is.  And if you're going to make a change, it'd be best to make a change to something clearly superior and not just a sideways step.  Going from the Fritz to a Dynaudio or a Sonus Faber, that's a step sideways, IMO.  Yes, the Fritz are that good. 

[Letitroll98]

Whew, good decision, I was worried for a half a minute.  It did create an interesting discussion.  The level of expertise from our members is astounding.  If you ever did build another cabinet, you need 2" baffles for that much curve.  But that has the benefit of an awesome foundation for the drivers.