[marks-sf]

I've got a vintage pair of Dunlavy SC-III-A's and an S-I.CC from 2000 that I'm looking at upgrading the crossovers. My problem is that towards the end Dunlavy started recessing their backplates to be incredibly tight-fitting (see picture). Does anyone have any techniques beyond trying to push out from inside the speaker (not practical due to cabinet construction) without marring the finish?

TIA, Mark

 

[ric]

I can't remember, but I did pull my SCIII's panel off at some point. Besides using a sharp utility knife to go around the edges and maybe a butter knife to try and pry it gently, don't know, good luck!

[Doublej]

You could try using a suction cup device that is used for removing imac screens

https://www.amazon.com/ifixit-suction-cups/s?k=ifixit+suction+cups

Otherwise I would try slipping a snap off blade utility knife between the plate and cabinet and try to coax it out gently.

[Zuman]

I don't know your speakers, but I've addressed similar situations by removing the perimeter screws and inserting the end of a metal clothes hanger, snipped off and bent into a slight hook, into one of the holes in the metal plate. Are there components mounted to the screws in the middle of the plate?

[Peter J]

I don't know your speakers, but I've addressed similar situations by removing the perimeter screws and inserting the end of a metal clothes hanger, snipped off and bent into a slight hook, into one of the holes in the metal plate. Are there components mounted to the screws in the middle of the plate?

Agree on the hook. Prying at edges almost always a bad idea. I've encountered gasket tape on the backs of some, can't speak to Dunlavy. I'd probably look to something like these, but it's gonna cost ya!

https://www.harborfreight.com/mini-pick-and-hook-set-63697.html

[NoDisco]

Why not just build external crossovers?

[Mike B.]

I agree about removing the parameter screws and inserting a thin pick or blade behind the plate. If I remember correctly these speakers had  complex first order crossovers. Good luck with it.

[marks-sf]

Thanks everyone for the ideas. I’ve discovered that besides being recessed with no clearance for a blade w/o breaking the edge, there is also an adhesive gasket. John _really_ believed in good seals I guess. This means heat would have to be applied and I’m thinking twice about that as the plate is quite large and I don’t want to damage the cabinet. As for the center screws, these both attach the jack panel and are standoffs for a second crossover board, therefore I believe they are machine screws backed by nuts that I don’t want to loosen as they appear to be installed before the crossover is.

[Jeff]

I have been into a pair of these.  I wish I had taken pics.  It has been awhile...  More than 12 years.

I removed the perimeter screws, and laid the speaker back (drivers pointing up) on blocks with a pad under the panel.  I left it that way for several days before checking on it.  One dropped, but the other required more.  I can not remember if the XO was accessible from the bottom.  I believe you can remove the base, and access the 10" woofer.  I just do not remember in the XO is mounted into that part of the cab...  Either way I see no problem removing them less the potential to chip the veneer as the plate clears it (never pry).  That should be easily repaired as one would do with fine furniture.

I can say that those cheap resistors, coils, and solen caps are not as tightly matched as they use to claim

[marks-sf]

I have been into a pair of these.  I wish I had taken pics.  It has been awhile...  More than 12 years.

I removed the perimeter screws, and laid the speaker back (drivers pointing up) on blocks with a pad under the panel.  I left it that way for several days before checking on it.  One dropped, but the other required more.  I can not remember if the XO was accessible from the bottom.  I believe you can remove the base, and access the 10" woofer.  I just do not remember in the XO is mounted into that part of the cab...  Either way I see no problem removing them less the potential to chip the veneer as the plate clears it (never pry).  That should be easily repaired as one would do with fine furniture.

I can say that those cheap resistors, coils, and solen caps are not as tightly matched as they use to claim

Jeff, that’s an interesting tip. Are you saying gravity will loosen it? I have been in the bottom and removed the woofer. This is how I saw the crossover:



 and how there was no way to do anything from that direction as attempting to push out didn’t work.

[Jeff]

Yes.  But, it was summer without climate control.  How much that matters...  Who can say.