Offer to sell: X-LS Cabs Raw/Painted /// X-CS flat pack/Raw/Painted

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Killian Smith

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Been working hard out in the shop and thought I'd offer to help folks along with their X-LS and X-CS builds.

X-LS CABINET assembled, but unpainted $200



 X-LS CABINET assembled, painted $350 (for most colors/finishes but prices may vary)



Also for sale is a handy crossover template board...if you are worried or confused about your crossover layout, this can help you have a side by side comparison $20




X-CS flat pack $180



X-CS assembled but unpainted $250 (((picture is a dry fit...use your imagination that it has been glued)))



X-CS assembled and painted $325 (for most colors/finishes but prices may vary)

EMAIL ME: dentonwoodworkers@gmail.com

We may be willing and able to veneer these but that is too hard to price as veneer prices can range etc.

PRICE IS PER PAIR FOLKS (hahaha)

Shipping can range. I'll give you an estimate when you email me!

corndog71

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  • Some people call me Rob.
For a cleaner look you may want to cover the whole front with the baffle.


AverageNiceGuy

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Hmm,
I'm interested in the X-LS, email sent

Hobbsmeerkat

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My pair of XLS are from Killian!
They're hefty and well built, and they were well packaged.
I would definitely recommend sealing the MDF & using a skimcoat of spackle/bondo for a perfectly smooth finish before painting. (As was recommended by other users) I doubt it'll be necessary for veneer, but its definitely a good way to go for the price!



I do think using a whole piece for the front would be a good desing Choice going forward, rather than using the outer walls for the edges, as others have suggested.

Out of curiosity do you also plan to offer kits for AV-O/X-Omni or the X-SLS?

Killian Smith

  • Jr. Member
  • Posts: 30
My pair of XLS are from Killian!
They're hefty and well built, and they were well packaged.
I would definitely recommend sealing the MDF & using a skimcoat of spackle/bondo for a perfectly smooth finish before painting. (As was recommended by other users) I doubt it'll be necessary for veneer, but its definitely a good way to go for the price!



I do think using a whole piece for the front would be a good desing Choice going forward, rather than using the outer walls for the edges, as others have suggested.



Out of curiosity do you also plan to offer kits for AV-O/X-Omni or the X-SLS?

Id be willing to do other designs! Hard to price or give time estimates for turn around on anything we haven’t made. We are currently building out some X-Static’s. New designs are fun to work the kinks out.

The front baffle as a single piece is a good idea for hiding the most common viewed seem. But it does present some problems in how you do an initial glue up. The rabbets (which is the woodworking term for that seem) give you an ideal spot to have lots of glue contact. This problem is especially compounded for selling someone a flat pack, as now the more complicated ways of adhering the pieces become the ‘customers’ problem.

All that to say, we didn’t find it particularly hard to conceal the seem...bit of filler/bondo/primer and subsequent layers of paint, and the seems were hidden.

Killian Smith

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For a cleaner look you may want to cover the whole front with the baffle.



This thing does look good Corndog71. May have to mess with this some.

Hobbsmeerkat

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Id be willing to do other designs! Hard to price or give time estimates for turn around on anything we haven’t made. We are currently building out some X-Static’s. New designs are fun to work the kinks out.

The front baffle as a single piece is a good idea for hiding the most common viewed seem. But it does present some problems in how you do an initial glue up. The rabbets (which is the woodworking term for that seem) give you an ideal spot to have lots of glue contact. This problem is especially compounded for selling someone a flat pack, as now the more complicated ways of adhering the pieces become the ‘customers’ problem.

All that to say, we didn’t find it particularly hard to conceal the seem...bit of filler/bondo/primer and subsequent layers of paint, and the seems were hidden.

Good to know! Seeing several posts about the X-Statik, its another pair I'd love to build if money/opportunity arose. I'm definitely looking forward to your thoughts on the X-Statik!  :thumb:

That's a fair point for sure!

Killian Smith

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The trio


Killian Smith

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Here is some we did in a ribbon stripped mahogany




Hobbsmeerkat

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Ohh that's pretty!
Great veneer work, dude! I'm hoping my Studios look just as good once their all done! :thumb:

Barryg443

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I’m curious on the X-static’s.  Let me know how the work out! 
Barry

Killian Smith

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I’m curious on the X-static’s.  Let me know how the work out! 
Barry

Did some X-Static in a solid Monkey Pod front baffle. Sound amazing.




Barryg443

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Did some X-Static in a solid Monkey Pod front baffle. Sound amazing.




They look awesome.  Would a solid Baffle be recommended over using veneer?

Hobbsmeerkat

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Veneer is going to be a lot cheaper, but more labor intensive.
Solid wood is easier but more expensive & also runs the risk of warping over time & generally more resonant.

But as long as you love the look/sound that what matters most.  :thumb:

WGH

They look awesome.  Would a solid Baffle be recommended over using veneer?

Solid wood for baffles should be carefully chosen. Technically speaking vertical grain is the most stable but tends to have less grain pattern. The exotic woods like Monkeypod are from Central and South America. The exotic woods are usually dried to 12% moisture content and will slowly air dry more based on your location. If you live in Central or South America you can use the wood immediately but most locations in the US are dryer which means the wood will shrink and usually warp in the process. The general rule of thumb is stack and sticker the wood in a level spot, protect it from rain and moisture, put some weight on top and let it air dry for 1 year per inch of thickness, an 8/4 plank will take 2 years. Only then will the wood be stable enough for a table top or speaker baffle.

When you see photos of old time woodworkers shops they have stacks of thick planks hanging out, covered in dust and looking ragged. These guys have learned that using aged wood makes for a project that lasts. Amateur woodworkers buy fresh wood as they need it, sometimes it works, sometimes the projects self destruct in a few years.

Killian Smith

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When you see photos of old time woodworkers shops they have stacks of thick planks hanging out, covered in dust and looking ragged. These guys have learned that using aged wood makes for a project that lasts. Amateur woodworkers buy fresh wood as they need it, sometimes it works, sometimes the projects self destruct in a few years.

This monkey pod was pulled from our ‘old time woodworkers shed’ .

These are not for sale. Wouldn’t feel comfortable sending them anywhere. These speakers reside a few hundred yards from their fore mentioned shed in an A/C’d living room. And if they explode, we can make a new beautiful front baffle from something else in the shed.

Have had a few folks reach out about getting some x-static’s made. Always have to write up a few considerations and questions for the customer. In general, I recommend a veneer or duratex. Flat packing this design poses a few other end user issues, but that’s for a whole other post I may write up.

Killian Smith

  • Jr. Member
  • Posts: 30
Veneer is going to be a lot cheaper, but more labor intensive.
Solid wood is easier but more expensive & also runs the risk of warping over time & generally more resonant.

But as long as you love the look/sound that what matters most.  :thumb:

Maybe not as straight forward as you may think Hobbs! I’d postulate that the total labor of the solid hardwood is much higher than the labor of a veneer job. Certainly takes more tools and expertise than a veneer job.

That paired with some warping and sonic concerns makes a solid wood option....usually not worthwhile compared to a veneered version. But these aren’t for anyone but us and we wanted to experiment combining what we have experience doing in hardwood furniture to a speaker setting. Learned a ton...and frankly that’s what it should be all about.

Hobbsmeerkat

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Maybe not as straight forward as you may think Hobbs! I’d postulate that the total labor of the solid hardwood is much higher than the labor of a veneer job. Certainly takes more tools and expertise than a veneer job.

That paired with some warping and sonic concerns makes a solid wood option....usually not worthwhile compared to a veneered version. But these aren’t for anyone but us and we wanted to experiment combining what we have experience doing in hardwood furniture to a speaker setting. Learned a ton...and frankly that’s what it should be all about.

That's a good point! I'm still only in the wee stages of my learning. And honestly learning, and applying those skills I've learned are what I enjoy most. (So long as I don't have to write a full report with cited sources, or give an oral presentation... :P )

Budget_Mike

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Did some X-Static in a solid Monkey Pod front baffle. Sound amazing.




Any chance you could do an X-Statik flat pack? I don't trust my lack of experience.

Waterskidude

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How much are the X-LS flatpack unassembled?

Thanks.

Scott

Been working hard out in the shop and thought I'd offer to help folks along with their X-LS and X-CS builds.

X-LS CABINET assembled, but unpainted $200



 X-LS CABINET assembled, painted $350 (for most colors/finishes but prices may vary)



Also for sale is a handy crossover template board...if you are worried or confused about your crossover layout, this can help you have a side by side comparison $20




X-CS flat pack $180



X-CS assembled but unpainted $250 (((picture is a dry fit...use your imagination that it has been glued)))



X-CS assembled and painted $325 (for most colors/finishes but prices may vary)

EMAIL ME: dentonwoodworkers@gmail.com

We may be willing and able to veneer these but that is too hard to price as veneer prices can range etc.

PRICE IS PER PAIR FOLKS (hahaha)

Shipping can range. I'll give you an estimate when you email me!