[birkbott]

If you use method I show here, polarity is less of a concern. It self matches, you might say. In doing this way, the grills typically become matched to a particular orientation. Meaning they'll be matched to the box itself.

If it's a concern, you can put magnets on side for grill storage as well.

https://www.audiocircle.com/index.php?topic=139529.40

Well this is just brilliant.

[Peter J]

Well this is just brilliant.

I have my moments...

[birkbott]

I have the boxes all glued and decided to install the crossover before gluing on the front baffle. I intend to cover it with a cloth during the sanding and painting process. I'm thinking I'll just go with a 3/8" roundover all around for a smooth look and mirror that on the subs as well.

The tweeter holes are my biggest problem. I decided to try and cut the countersink for the tweeter freehand using a jig that wasn't deep enough for my flushmount bit so it's a little uneven. There are some areas where the hole is larger than the outside of the tweeter by about 1/16". I don't believe this will affect the sound but aesthetically it's not very nice. I'm considering trying to fill with wood filler and sand to make it perfectly round (or closer to perfect anyway).

Also the tweeters are about 1/16" proud of the baffle so I'm trying to hand sand the countersink depth down but not making much progress. I don't know if this will affect the sound either. I don't think it's affecting the seal on the woofer but it's hard to tell.

I'm impatient to get them done but don't want to kick myself later.

[Peter J]

 I've had to recut things a few time and have successfully used Putty Coat. It's essentially a more refined body filler. Wood filler would be down my list some.

 If you can rework your jig, I'd be inclined to over fill area and cut rabbet again. 1/16" is not insignificant, but probably not a train wreck either. Sanding anything to desired size or profile is painfully slow and inaccurate in my experience. Having an even mounting surface for tweeter is desirable.

I should add that I'm fussy as hell when it comes to the details, so take all that FWIW.

[Captainhemo]

Sorry I'm  late to this one but maybe this will  help  some future builders.
My recommendation for magnets  is to  install them from the rear  side before glue up.  Set up your  drill press so that the holes leave minimal material  between  bit  and face,  I try to leave  less than 1mm when  I'm doing them.  Once holes are drilled,  dip each  magnet in  epoxy or even  some thin ca and then tap them  down to the face.. be sure to do this  on a  hard flat surface so not to  punch the magnet  through the face.  If you  are worried about it,   you   add some glue behind the magnet as well.  Doiong   them this way  leaves the  baffle surface untouched,  no filling/sanding etc and no chance of  bleed through down the road.  Be sure to  place them so that you leave  clearence for   frontside rouindovers if you plan to use them.  Youi  don't want  the  router bit coutting into the magnets

I've read  that  acoustically, you'll want a minimum of .5" rouinodver on front  vertical edges although, I'm not   sure how much difference  you    actually  notice  if you  went  smaller. Dont forget the rear roundover on the rear of the woofer cutout , again, I'd go   with a  .5"

If you  had a circle jig for your  router, I'd recommend  cutting a plug to perfectly fill the  tweeter through hole then recutting the  tweeter recess.  Once that  was done,  you   could re-cut the through hole assuming you  glued the plug into place.  Agree with Peter,  trying to sand  the face of the  tweeter recess is not going to be fun .
Youi may gain a little  more room  once  the tweeter  gasket  compresses  but it won't be a  1/16".

jay

[WGH]

There are some areas where the hole is larger than the outside of the tweeter by about 1/16". I don't believe this will affect the sound but aesthetically it's not very nice. I'm considering trying to fill with wood filler and sand to make it perfectly round (or closer to perfect anyway).

Since you are painting the cabinets you can fill the gaps with Bondo auto body putty. Bondo sticks to wood, sets in 15 minutes or less, doesn't shrink and doesn't need priming. Bondo can be easily shaved during the initial setting period before it turns rock hard.

Nothing sticks to masking tape so you could wrap the tweeter's edge and face with masking tape, wax it and use the tweeter as a form, then carefully pop it out when the Bondo is set but since you are inexperienced you will probably get Bondo on the cone and unprotected areas and generally make a mess so I hesitate recommending you use this method.

[birkbott]

Sorry I'm  late to this one but maybe this will  help  some future builders.
My recommendation for magnets  is to  install them from the rear  side before glue up.  Set up your  drill press so that the holes leave minimal material  between  bit  and face,  I try to leave  less than 1mm when  I'm doing them.  Once holes are drilled,  dip each  magnet in  epoxy or even  some thin ca and then tap them  down to the face.. be sure to do this  on a  hard flat surface so not to  punch the magnet  through the face.  If you  are worried about it,   you   add some glue behind the magnet as well.  Doiong   them this way  leaves the  baffle surface untouched,  no filling/sanding etc and no chance of  bleed through down the road.  Be sure to  place them so that you leave  clearence for   frontside rouindovers if you plan to use them.  Youi  don't want  the  router bit coutting into the magnets

I've read  that  acoustically, you'll want a minimum of .5" rouinodver on front  vertical edges although, I'm not   sure how much difference  you    actually  notice  if you  went  smaller. Dont forget the rear roundover on the rear of the woofer cutout , again, I'd go   with a  .5"

If you  had a circle jig for your  router, I'd recommend  cutting a plug to perfectly fill the  tweeter through hole then recutting the  tweeter recess.  Once that  was done,  you   could re-cut the through hole assuming you  glued the plug into place.  Agree with Peter,  trying to sand  the face of the  tweeter recess is not going to be fun .
Youi may gain a little  more room  once  the tweeter  gasket  compresses  but it won't be a  1/16".

jay

I’ll remember this magnet trick for next time.

I was able to re-rout the tweeter depth so that it’s flush. There are still some small gaps around it but I’ve decided to live with it this time.

I decided to do 1/2” roundover all around, will post pics after they are painted.

[birkbott]

These are finished and I’m very impressed with the quality of the sound. They aren’t perfect, I have my list of things to do differently next time, but they are mine and as I said they sound great.

Now on to the subs!

[Captainhemo]

Cool   ,  enjoy  you  new  speakers