[willief23]

for anyone that still needs to do this. for board sizes 6 1/4" length by 4 3/4" wide (6.25inch x 4.75inch) is the biggest board you can fit inside the rp600m. I had copper clad boards cut to size by someone on ebay but any mdf board will work.  I also used something called Casco Superfix. its a multipurpose glue that works very well on crossover components i got it from hificollective uk when I ordered my bypass caps. They have some of the best prices on duelund caps and pretty good prices overall for other caps as well. 

[willief23]

I had Elon do my crossover boards for the RP 600M but with far higher quality better sounding parts that I chose myself including the copper clad boards.   email him at elon@ezeescrossovers.com  if you want any crossover boards done.  for board sizes 6 1/4" length by 4 3/4" wide (6.25inch x 4.75inch) is the biggest board you can fit inside the rp600m. So the end result I choose Jupiter copper foil paper & wax capacitors for the tweeter side with a Duelund jdm pure silver bypass cap (adds a little more smoothness and extra detail to the jupiter) with Fostex copper caps on the woofer side.  Path Audio resistors used they are suppose to be even better than the Duelund graphites. I only used the inductors from Danys upgrade kit and used better parts for the rest of it. I have sensitive ears and pairing the rp600m with an outlaw solid state power amp made the rp600m bright sounding on the high frequencies.  Now with the upgraded crossover parts the rp600m sounds at least 3x better. Even with no burn in on the new caps I could easily tell a big noticeable difference in dynamics, more bass, more detail/clarity, better soundstage and all the harness/brightness on the tweeters high frequencies are all gone.  Well worth the time and effort. I also did a layer of something called Kilmat 80mil (from amazon) which is like dynamat all over the inside of the speaker enclosure with a 3/4" 3 layer soundbarrier material placed on top of the kilmat.  This increased bass and makes the speakers sound bigger than they are.

[Shives]

Folks looking for network boards.

Few tips, least some ideas or thoughts. Less metal the better. I used a hard cheery wood to mount down the parts. Little overboard I went with making sure things don’t come loose! Also stained it, added some fill under it as well.





I wish I did the tube connectors on the top! Why? The angle down can interfere with the network. Try and have your network boards as short as possible. Driver vs inductor space is limited. Lol.







Zip ties, hot glue gun. Wood glue.

Also used some strips and cut them to 3/4 wide by 3/8 for stand off’s. Pre drill down a little, brass screws to hold the board in place.

Advise for the tube connections… use the top position. It gives you more room for the wires and such.

[jrocks29ms@gmail.com]

Hey happy klipsch owners. I have a question regarding the Klipsch rp600m's. My questiong is about toe in, specifically for the upgraded klipsch rp-600m. I have done the upgrades and have burned them in fairly well.
I will say that i have added bypass caps, and after installing them and putting my speakers back in approximately the same position, Im missing some center image lock in the soundstage, they play really wide feet past the speakers to either side, which they didnt do before the new bypass caps. But my question is about extreme toe in, does this work? Ron from new record day made avideo about this and i was wondering if anyone has any experience doing this with success with the Klipsch RP600M.
Please let me know how you use your klipschs, and pictures are definately welcome.
Heres mine: PS, including a shot of my crossovers.

[Hobbsmeerkat]

I played around with some JBL Studio 4309 monitors a few months back and noticed the same thing.

Imaging was a bit unfocused, but they had a really nice, wide soundstage, especially without any toe-in. I found them to be a little  fatiguing when directly facing me, so I didnt stick with that very long. The upgraded 600M likely wont have that issue but it's hard to say.

I tried "crossing the streams" as Ron calls it, and imaging was locked in tight, but i also found the soundstage had almost completely collapsed by doing so, at least in my room.
So for me, i just kept them facing into the room without any toe-in.

I imagine that the 600M and other horn/waveguide based speakers will do the same thing.
So you may need to play around with the toe-in a bit to find what you think works best for you and your room.

[john.cardell]

@rolyb;

What were the dimensions of your board.
Thanks John

[jrocks29ms@gmail.com]

My crossover boards were 1/8” sanded pine I think, maybe particle board. 5”x8.5” long.
I would say the ideal size would be 4.75”x8”. Mine fit but very close to touching the no-rez.

[jrocks29ms@gmail.com]

Doing this work repairing stripped holes and building my stands the same week the version 2’s come out. Kinda annoying, but also kind of lucky. I can prepare for upgrading the woofers in my rp-600m 1’s if I feel it ends up making sense.
On rp-600m vs version 2: Crossover appears to be the same, crossover point is the same woofer material, spider, magnet, 8 ohm load, and impedance is the same just a larger voice coil and shorting rings,(I suspect reducing distortion, and offering better control). There is a slightly larger cabinet on the version 2 but also the addition of internal bracing, and the air space required to accommodate it. So air space is essentially a wash.
The woofer are about a $50-$100 upgrade, and I’m pretty happy with my speakers and the cost vs performance  in them so far. Better bass and midrange that may be found in an updated version 2 woofer and I think these things are really good for the money. If not some of the best.
To any happy modded owners of rp-600m I hope I can help you being one of the first to try hot rodding these modded speakers even further. I used mills resistors and Miflex and Sonicap bypass caps on both the woofer and tweeter circuits.
I’ll tell you, using non-hardening model clay on both drivers to dampen vibrations was a big help, especially in the mid range and bass!
I’d love to do a kit but at the moment I don’t have the space to complete a full cabinet and finish it the way I’d want it done, not to mention cost of a hot-rod crossover. Maybe when I’m out of college.

[Hobbsmeerkat]

A pair of the RP 600M II just arrived the shop, and I'm currently putting some time on them. (I bought them)


 
Out of the gate, at higher volumes, they're a little bright, especially with respect to electric guitars & synth in the lower treble region, leaving the mids feeling lacking. Facing them into the room helps ease some of the brightness and helps with soundstage width but which did some weird things on one song I've only ever heard  happen with headphones. Not much in the way of layering or depth.

Imaging is quite good, even towed out.
Mids, aside from being a little thin, are decently behaved too, but not as clear or articulate as I'm used to.

Gunna give them some time to loosen up & burn in so see what changes after 50-ish hours.

It'll be a while before we get to upgrade these, but I've already done the full suite of stock measurements. As a teaser, here's the on-axis response.



Danny is currently working on some big Maggies then we got 2 more Klipsch speakers after that, then a B&W center up next.

[Hobbsmeerkat]

A peek at the new stock crossover, there's definitely some improvements made over the original

[Kaiju2189]

Yep. Looks like they pulled from the standard Klipsch parts bin.

[jrocks29ms@gmail.com]

Cool. I am very interested to know how the woofer compares to the vs 1, in both construction and measurements! Have fun. Looking forward to videos on the progress!

[Hobbsmeerkat]

Cool. I am very interested to know how the woofer compares to the vs 1, in both construction and measurements! Have fun. Looking forward to videos on the progress!

Construction wise, the woofers look nearly identical to one another.
So a lot if it likely comes down to internal changes that would mean having one of each side by side to be noticable.

We do plan to take raw measurements of the drivers so see how they compare to the originals.

Yep. Looks like they pulled from the standard Klipsch parts bin.

It's nothing particularly special, but it is a step up in parts quality over the original. It still uses steel nuts on the inside of the binding posts though, but the use of a polyester cap in the woofer circuit is better than the electrolytic cap in the original.

Danny shot a companion video today going over the measurements between the stock measurements of both models & we'll likely do a couple follow-up/sound demo videos as well.

[jrocks29ms@gmail.com]

Are those videos up yet?
Is there a page with the most current videos, I seem to remember there being a pitch about weekly Tuesday tech talks.

[Hobbsmeerkat]

The most recent video is the one breaking down the differences between the 600M & 600M II
https://youtu.be/VHfDMYpJnB4

The rest will be coming once we get through some of the other speakers, including 2 other klipsch models

Tuesday Techtalks haven't been a regular thing for a while now, especially since Danny got hit own channel, but he has done some more tech-related videos on occasion.

[jrocks29ms@gmail.com]

Nice, I finally finished repairing my klipsch’s stripped screw holes. Holy moly what a job I used wooden dowels glued and sanded. I think it took 3 times as long as the upgrade took. I never want to see the inside of a klipsch speaker again! Lol
Very interested in the xls vs modified klipsch sound clips.
I’ve heard some high end Bowers and Wilkins and electrostatic speakers but nothing like Danny’s kits. So I really have no reference when to what his speaker designs sound like. Descriptions only offer so much.

Do I understand that the xls is ported and the nx-studio is not, with the studio monitor having  low end fr response of around 70 hz.
Does that mean you needs subs, to really enjoy them?
How do the xls encore and studio monitor compare?
Are there plans for an updated encore any time soon?

[nlitworld]

Do I understand that the xls is ported and the nx-studio is not, with the studio monitor having  low end fr response of around 70 hz.
Does that mean you needs subs, to really enjoy them?

From my experience with these speakers, the best answer iI can give is it depends. My room is quite small (spare bedroom) so my Studios play well into the 40-50 range. They are pulled out from the wall as much as I can with the front baffle about 35" from the front wall and I sit about 5.5' from speakers. I have on more than a couple occasions forgotten to turn my subwoofers on and have been happy with the sound, but to get real oompf down low you'll want some help from a sub or two. I have mine turned super low (6 or 8 clicks out of 40) just to help down below and it gives just enough without getting in the way of the Studios. I'm sure in a bigger room you would want/need some extra low end, but they certainly are surprising how good they are. 

[Hobbsmeerkat]

Nice, I finally finished repairing my klipsch’s stripped screw holes. Holy moly what a job I used wooden dowels glued and sanded. I think it took 3 times as long as the upgrade took. I never want to see the inside of a klipsch speaker again! Lol
Very interested in the xls vs modified klipsch sound clips.
I’ve heard some high end Bowers and Wilkins and electrostatic speakers but nothing like Danny’s kits. So I really have no reference when to what his speaker designs sound like. Descriptions only offer so much.

Do I understand that the xls is ported and the nx-studio is not, with the studio monitor having  low end fr response of around 70 hz.
Does that mean you needs subs, to really enjoy them?
How do the xls encore and studio monitor compare?
Are there plans for an updated encore any time soon?

The X-LS's soft-dome tweeter will definitely have a smoother top end, as metal dome tweeters tend to be a little more "shiny" or "hard" sounding, but in terms of overall tone and balance they should both be very similar especially after the upgrade, with the Encores winning out in terms of detail with the mids & bass due to the lighter paper cone woofer over the aluminum cone of the Klipsch.

The NX-Studio will be in a whole other league, with the open-backed tweeter giving a much more open & spacious sound than either the Encore or 600M.
The bass performance of the studios can be very room dependent, with smaller/narrow rooms providing a little more boost. If your typical music habits don't have a lot of really deep bass you may not find them too lacking. In a larger room, they'll likely sound a little more weak where they will be more likely to need a sub.

Most of the music I enjoy I can get away without subs, but some more deep, bass-heavy songs will occasionally feel lacking without subs.

[jrocks29ms@gmail.com]

Regarding the vs 2 klipsch rp-600m speaker, the mid woofer driver may look the same but it has shorting rings. But the most remarkable physical difference is it actually has a steeper angle of cone construction. It will most definitely have measurable differences from gen 1. Klipsch says the drivers adjusted construction is suppose to result in a smoother fr response over the woofers upper range.

[Hobbsmeerkat]

We do have raw measurements of the V1 woofer so I'm sure that's something we'll look into once we tear into them and run wires our the back for the upgrade