[Hifidelio]

Just thought I'd share my RP-600M journey with you guys.

Picked these up new by trading in some old Klipsch speakers after reading and seeing nothing but positive reviews. Sadly after listening I felt the stock speakers were not quite up to par. Certain sounds in the upper registries were too pronounced for me. So many reviewers had said these were not fatiguing, almost even smooth.  I started to think I was crazy until I stumbled upon Ron's review on his YouTube channel New Record Day. Man did he get it right. Sadly I did not see his review before the purchase. But wait, there's more, Ron suggests a fix created by non other than Mr Richie! Am I saved? You bet!

I ordered the upgrade shortly after and couldn't wait for it to arrive.  It took me about 3 days to assemble since I had a number of other things going on that interupted the process that weekend.

I chose to go down a slightly different path and keep the stock terminal setup with the 5 way binding posts and biamp capability. Certainly not trying to put down the tube connectors in any way, just personally wanted to keep the stock form. Thought I'd share my layout in case anyone else feels like doing the same. All of my connections were made below the board, the tweeter and woofer circuits are completely separate from one another.



Anyway, as far as the end result, I couldn't be any happier. Danny took a speaker that initially gave me some buyers remorse and turned it into something fantastic. I did some A/B measurements to see if what I thought I was hearing was true. Danny's design plays far more flat and cuts down on the peaks that made this thing difficult to listen to without the upgrade. I could share that comparison if you want to see it, but it's an in room measurement and I don't want to do this upgrade any sort of injustice if someone was to interpret that as true response.

If anyone is on the fence about buying this upgrade I can say without a doubt for me it was worth every penny. On top of that, it was a really fun project and a great intro into speaker modification. I hope to build one of the full kits at some point when I am ready to make room for yet another pair of speakers in the house.

Thanks, Danny!

[Danny Richie]

That's great Hifidelio.

If you ever decide to replace one of the sets of binding posts with the tube connectors, there is another layer of clarity there for you.

[bupiehowlo]

First post, but really excited to be getting into the world of DIY audio! Started off with buying a PS Audio Sprout100 plus a set of open box RP-600m's on eBay. Fortunately I was able to find out about the all upgrades before even buying the speakers so going into it knew I'd buy the speakers, listen to them for a bit, them do the upgrade, which I just purchased.

I'm sure everything I just bought is a gateway drug....of that there's no doubt! I'm a mechanical engineer by trade in the aerospace industry, so learning about acoustics measurements, DAC's, Amps, loudspeaker design is really fascinating. There are many parallels between the audio world and the structural dynamics so it's not completely foreign, but I'm reading up as much as I can. I also really enjoying the discussions comparing what you can hear vs what you can measure. That makes alot of sense to me, that not everything that is positive is definitely measurable.

-Jim

[Bradlose]

I see you are not using mills resisters in the Klipsch rp 600 kit, Any reason Why?
Just courious,

[Bradlose]

Gateway is right! I'm on my fourth pair of encores,

[Danny Richie]

I see you are not using mills resisters in the Klipsch rp 600 kit, Any reason Why?
Just courious,

They don't come that way. And right now many Mills resistor values are out of stock. And I don't mean that I don't have them. No one has them and lead times from Mills is 6 months to a year. So I am working on an alternative.

[Shives]

I did read in the post someone mentioning an additional mod you can add to this network. Gosh, I’m going to have to go back and read the post again to see what it was they mentioned to add.

Is there something else that is a possible add to increase the quality of said speaker? I believe they said to ask you as well!

I just got my set of 600m’s new in box at open box price, as well the 504C and SPL120. So, being I’m starting ahead of the game in price a bit, I’m considering my options.. as well being in the return period, return these and build your DIY! (To which I was also considering to buy a set or two, build maybe sell of keep... Happy to help my locals!)

Back to the main question... is there another step that could be done to these 600m’s? Or was this comment just unwarranted?

Kind hearted thank you to all of you! Showing off your skills, asking questions... It can be daunting! Or embarrassing! Don’t let it be! Everyone learns! And messing up is how we learn as well, from our mistakes! I’m glad people are kind around to be able to help! 

[Danny Richie]

Back to the main question... is there another step that could be done to these 600m’s? Or was this comment just unwarranted?

There is nothing else I would recommend doing to them that doesn't start passing the point of diminishing returns.

[Homer2]

It doesn't cost anything, but found it beneficial to dampen the woofer metal frame basket with something as mentioned by Danny and in other posts.

[Cblan1224]

Hey guys. First time, long time. I just received my 504c upgrade kit. I have 8000f upgrade on the way in a week or 2. I'm not worried about the 8000s, because I've seen pictures that should help. This is my first entry into DIYing, other than putting together a few hypex ncxxxmp modules. Of course, there isn't much to those.
Anyway, I'm a visual learner and would love a picture from someone who has done this. I think that would help me a lot.
I don't know much about the diagram here. Ive got the parts laid out, but there are V shaped things on the diagram, U shaped things, things that mention ohms. Have a green marker and an X through one of them. Someone post a pic! I heard someone posted a picture(Homer2), but it won't let me search until I have 3 approved posts, so here goes the first one!
Thanks everyone.

[Hobbsmeerkat]

Here ya go! 

In case anyone is looking for a layout example to consider.  This is the GR Research cross-over layout I used for the Klipsch RP-504C center channel.  It measures 3.5" x 12".  It fits very well on the bottom all the way to the side behind the binding post cup.

[Cblan1224]

Here ya go! 

Thank you so much. It was hard to find while not being able to search for it. I have learned a lot since my last post, and had the tweeter circuit put together, but I did have one question about connecting the positives that these picture answer clearly.
I cannot tell you how much you tracking down that picture for me has helped me out. I am now 100% confident in what I'm doing. ...I have a good size mdf board on order and I won't get it for a week, but I'll have this properly laid out in a few minutes.
Thank you!

[Cblan1224]

Here ya go! 

One last question. Is there any issue if I put the inductor in the middle laying flat and the 2 on either side of it up on end?
Thanks

[Hobbsmeerkat]

One last question. Is there any issue if I put the inductor in the middle laying flat and the 2 on either side of it up on end?
Thanks

That will work just fine as well. 

[Cblan1224]

One more for ya. If a diagram shows a line that just goes straight across, where does it get its ground connection? On my diagram it says the inner woofers and outer woofers are wired in series. I'm mentioning it because I'm not sure what it means in this case, so I wasn't sure if it applies to what im asking.
The negative wire goes from outer woofer, to where? Shares a ground with the inner woofer?
Thanks

[Hobbsmeerkat]

The Neg terminal from the inner woofer goes directly into the Pos terminal of the outer woofer, then from the Neg terminal from the outer woofer is the ground for both drivers and connects to the Negative tube connector or binding post.
If the woofer circuit doesn't have connection to ground, then the wire simply goes get connected to the ground line for the tweeter and then from there to the tube connector/binding post.

If that makes sense. if not, let me know, and I'll doodle something to explain it better tonight/tomorrow, when I get some downtime. 

[Cblan1224]

[Cblan1224]

The Neg terminal from the inner woofer goes directly into the Pos terminal of the outer woofer, then from the Neg terminal from the outer woofer is the ground for both drivers and connects to the Negative tube connector or binding post.
If the woofer circuit doesn't have connection to ground, then the wire simply goes get connected to the ground line for the tweeter and then from there to the tube connector/binding post.

If that makes sense. if not, let me know, and I'll doodle something to explain it better tonight/tomorrow, when I get some downtime. 

I tried to put a caption to that last picture. I don't know what happened to it. So looking at his drawing, it appears these 2 should be connected. If wired like this, would you use a jumper cable, and isn't it better to connect the 2 directly, if at all possible?
Thanks

[stiuskr]

...Is there something else that is a possible add to increase the quality of said speaker? I believe they said to ask you as well!...

I'm about to start on the RP8000f x-over kit and I'm gonna take it one step farther based on a comment Danny made in the YT vid for the 600. He tapped on the woofer metal speaker frames and they rang and said these could use some deadening. I have a roll of auto parts butyl tape that I'll form to the frame and then cover with strips of nylon fabric (DIY DynaMat)

[Cblan1224]

I think it would just be...if the resistor in the pic is the negative(for both woofers), and inductor will just be positive to outer woofer.
What you said about the negative going to the positive confused me a bit. If the negatives are shared, the positive will just go to the woofer and that'll be the end of it. No need to connected the shared grounds to the positive on the inductor, or am I wrong?
Sorry for all the messages, I just wanted that clarification. Otherwise, I'm ready for installation.
Thanks