[Hans.jakjj]

Hi Danny,
Is this asslembly correct?
Are the cables (which i wrote) correct?

[Audio Mo]

KLIPSCH RP-6000F
[Polish] https://audio.com.pl/testy/stereo/kolumny-glosnikowe/3193-klipsch-rp-6000f

https://www.translatetheweb.com/?ref=TVert&from=&to=en&a=https%3A%2F%2Faudio.com.pl%2Ftesty%2Fstereo%2Fkolumny-glosnikowe%2F3193-klipsch-rp-6000f

Graphs in the PDF: https://audio.com.pl/files/lmw/2677-Klipsch_RP-6000F.pdf



Figure. 1. processing characteristics throughout the acoustic band, on different axes




Figure. 2. charakteystics of the impedance module.


Rated impedance [Ω] 4
Sensitivity (2.83 V / 1 m) [dB] 89
Rated power [W] 125
Dimensions (H x W x D) [cm] 100.6 x 23.7 x 43.2
Mass [kg] 22

Hi Everyone

I'm new to this forum. This is an excellent topic and thanks to Dannie for his work. I would like to try to upgrade my Klipsch RP-260f and RP-440c, I know the way to do this is to send them to Dannie to measure them and design crossover accordingly. The cost of doing so is quite prohibitive.

The RP260f is quite similar to RP6000f and it uses the same crossover (attached) I would like to upgrade the crossover similarly to Dannie did to RP8000f and RP504c to correct this dip. I measured it with REW (in room) and the SPL was similar. Now thanks to Maty who posted the measurements of the RP6000f and I'm 90% sure they are the same if not identical to RP260f.

With that assumption in mind and information available (measurements and crossover), Dannie can you suggest something? I know it's a long shot.

 



 

[Danny Richie]

Hi guys!

There was no mention about the filling, it should go back or not. I tried without, then quickly decided to stuff some inside. I ended up even stuff the bass port.
The high tones.. nobody mentioned, that at first will be "coarse". I gave it some time, and looks like it comes back to "fine".

Is this normal? Did I something wrong? 

Go back and add in all of the factory insulation, or replace it all with fiberglass insulation.

And it will take those caps over 100 hours to settle in.

[Danny Richie]

Hi Everyone

With that assumption in mind and information available (measurements and crossover), Dannie can you suggest something? I know it's a long shot.

My experience is that every one of them needed to be redesigned to fix the issues we see. So I am afraid I can't be much help to you without having one here to design a new crossover for it.

 

[wowarning]

Currently putting together the crossovers for the rp600m’s and just want to confirm something before soldering - none of the components need to go into the circuit in a particular direction, correct? I understand the inductors need to be oriented in a way that the fields don’t interfere with each other, but does it matter where you attach the outer coil vs the inner coil? Caps and resistors can go in either way as well? Thanks in advance!

[Danny Richie]

Currently putting together the crossovers for the rp600m’s and just want to confirm something before soldering - none of the components need to go into the circuit in a particular direction, correct? I understand the inductors need to be oriented in a way that the fields don’t interfere with each other, but does it matter where you attach the outer coil vs the inner coil? Caps and resistors can go in either way as well? Thanks in advance!

All of those parts can be used in either direction, but be consistent and run them in the same direction on both speakers.

[mlundy57]

For caps and resistors I run the signal left to right in the direction of the writing. With inductors I have the signal go into the center of the coil and out the outside. That way the orientations are always the same and it’s easy to remember

[gringo117]

I have a question about crossover upgrade (not particularly of this speaker), but in general it may relate to many other speakers.
If the high pass filter has an air core coil (very thin gauge) as a 2nd order.

What would be the benefit of upgrading that thin gauge to a thicker gauge air coil (with the same inductance value)? In other words: How would the change of resistance of the inductor in the shunt change the behavior of the tweeter?

I would expect higher clarity: slope would be a bit steeper and therefore tweeter would less operate in the frequencies not ideal for it. And it would be more in line for the shunt inductance value purpose.
I am correct in my assumption?
If not then:
Would there be a need to compensate it by adding a resistor after the coil (covering the difference)? What would be the benefit then?

[Danny Richie]

I have a question about crossover upgrade (not particularly of this speaker), but in general it may relate to many other speakers.
If the high pass filter has an air core coil (very thin gauge) as a 2nd order.

What would be the benefit of upgrading that thin gauge to a thicker gauge air coil (with the same inductance value)? In other words: How would the change of resistance of the inductor in the shunt change the behavior of the tweeter?

I would expect higher clarity: slope would be a bit steeper and therefore tweeter would less operate in the frequencies not ideal for it. And it would be more in line for the shunt inductance value purpose.
I am correct in my assumption?
If not then:
Would there be a need to compensate it by adding a resistor after the coil (covering the difference)? What would be the benefit then?

A coil is basically a non-linear resistor. A capacitor is the same.

In the lowest ranges the resistance of a coil is the dcr. So gauge can slightly matter. As frequency increases the resistance increases from the inductance.

In a tweeter circuit the capacitor is creating more resistance down low. So the lower dcr of the inductor never really comes into play. The response of the circuit is the same regardless of the gauge.

Could it still sound different to some degree? Yeah, it might. Everything matters to some degree. But we are dealing with extreme subtlety.   

[gringo117]

 
Thank you for the reply. It is very helpful. I was considering the change of the coil to a thicker one, but if we are talking about extreme subtlety and not about removing a bad/not intended characteristic, because of the cheaper part, I will thrice  consider the change. First because of the cost of the new coil, second space in the speaker for the XO (convenience) and third the speakers are not that fancy or other of my hifi components, that could benefit from the change. But when the mood strikes you, who knows. 

Of course I am changing the coil in the woofer and the capacitor in the tweeter and the resistors in the direct path to the speakers. I was just wondering about that coil in the high pass.

Thanks again.

[Tyson]

Thank you for the reply. It is very helpful. I was considering the change of the coil to a thicker one, but if we are talking about extreme subtlety and not about removing a bad/not intended characteristic, because of the cheaper part, I will thrice  consider the change. First because of the cost of the new coil, second space in the speaker for the XO (convenience) and third the speakers are not that fancy or other of my hifi components, that could benefit from the change. But when the mood strikes you, who knows. 

Of course I am changing the coil in the woofer and the capacitor in the tweeter and the resistors in the direct path to the speakers. I was just wondering about that coil in the high pass.

Thanks again.

The quality of the copper in the coil matters because your signal is passing through it.  The higher the quality, the better.  As for gauge, my rule of thumb is 12ga for the woofer circuit, and usually 16ga for the tweeter circuit.  Although gauge seems less important that copper quality. 

[RayFielding]

Hi guys,

I'm totally new to speaker DIY but am very excited about the prospect of upgrading my RP600M's and RP600C. How easy is it to remove the woofer and tweeter from the cabinets? Are they stuck in with adhesive or do they fix in with clips. I don't want to do damage taking them apart.

Thanks in advance,

Ray

[Blackmore]

Welcome to AudioCircle Ray.  Check out Danny's YouTube channel to see how to disassemble the RP600s.  It looks pretty easy and Danny walks you through all the procedure.

[Homer2]

This is the frequency response measurement of my Klipsch RP8000F speaker pair after the upgrade.  These are in-room measurements at the primary listening position 16.1 ft away.  The speakers are about a foot away from the front wall.  And the room acoustics are acceptable but not stellar.   Not shown here but with a handful of PEQ filters applied I was able to tame the bass to match my house curve quite nicely.  Very happy with with the raw in-room result.  Amazing speaker performance at this price point.


 

[rolyb]

This is the frequency response measurement of my Klipsch RP8000F speaker pair after the upgrade.  These are in-room measurements at the primary listening position 16.1 ft away.  The speakers are about a foot away from the front wall.  And the room acoustics are acceptable but not stellar.   Not shown here but with a handful of PEQ filters applied I was able to tame the bass to match my house curve quite nicely.  Very happy with with the raw in-room result.  Amazing speaker performance at this price point.


 

Hello Homer2
That looks promising. Also have ordered the Upgrade for RP8000F.
Made some changes (cables, plugs .. ) as well isolated the cabinet.
Big difference to the original so far.
Only the crossover-parts have not arrived yet.
I look forward to it ...
Bye, roly 

[skershaw]

I am going to offer this as a complete upgrade that address other issues as well. The upgrade will include MUCH higher quality parts than what was used in them originally. I will include high quality internal wire that is four 9's pure solid core Copper with polyethylene coating. The upgrade will include a set of tube connectors, and a sheet of No Rez. The total for everything is $209 plus shipping.

Very impressive and thorough work. I’m new here and want pick up the kit but can’t seem to find where to order.

Maybe all gone?

[Danny Richie]

Very impressive and thorough work. I’m new here and want pick up the kit but can’t seem to find where to order.

Maybe all gone?

We don't create web pages for every upgrade we do on every speaker. If we did there would be about 400 of them. And I can design the upgrades faster than I can build web pages.

To order you need to give us a call at 940-592-3400 and use any credit card.

Or get me a ship to address and I can get you a total with shipping that you can cover using Paypal.

[skershaw]

To order you need to give us a call at 940-592-3400 and use any credit card.

Thanks, Danny,
- Steve K

[rolyb]

Hello from Switzerland.
Just want to show my "build" from GR-Research Crossover for the Klipsch RP-8000-F.
Not finished yet, just builded.
Soon will post updates and tell you my impressions ...  if wanted .. 

Hey guys first post here, got my Rp8000f kit in so I'm starting to put that together. Just posting to see if you guys can just check it out see if it looks ok. I basically just copied what Homer did on a previous post, his layout made the most sense to me.

[hawkeyejw]

Hello from Switzerland.
Just want to show my "build" from GR-Research Crossover for the Klipsch RP-8000-F.
Not finished yet, just builded.
Soon will post updates and tell you my impressions ...  if wanted .. 

Please do post impressions once you’ve completed them!