[Elizabeth]

My 70 year oldish anger spent, I will quickly repost some of the reasons for starting this thread:
After a year of upgrading, and ending with months of tweaking, the last was finding the perfect midrange resistor for my Magnepan 20.7s..
THe next thing to be interesting was what is under the equipment.
I started buying butcher blocks. I put them everywhere over the couple of months buying them.
Maple 3" by 18" by 19" each up on original Tip Toes, under Amplifier, Furman REF20 conditioner, and under PS AUdio P600 regenerator,
Main rack has Walnut 1 3/4" thick 22" by 16" on the original glass shelves (cheap rack), another low version has two 1 3/4" by 19" by 16" at bottom, with above a 17" by 14" under the CD changer over there. The other side is AV stuff.
Third rack has two TT on top, with each having a 1 3/4" thick Maple 22" by 19" as bases, THe Kuzma TT has a end grain Walnut 3" by 19" by 16" uder it, on top of the Maple. THe Rega same but Maple under it. All told 20 butcher blocks.

Then I started with footers. Tried various stuff that was not great. Then 'discovered' Pen Blanks. Exotic wood pen blanks are a hobby craft supply used by hobby wood turners to make PENS. Apparently this is a big hobby, big enough several online stores offer hundreds of exotic wood varieties for sale in the pen blank size (3/4" by 3/4" by 5") Nice thing, they are mostly a buck a pop. up to a few dollars for rarer woods. I started with the pen blanks, and tried out many sorts of wood.. Discoveing the really heavy sort had much more effect. Settling on predominantly Dalbergia family of wood. (Rosewood).

Then I decided to get bigger, and started trying Knife Scales size (1" by 1 1/2" by 5") wood. Buying African Blackwood, Bolivian Rosewood, Honduran Rosewood, Cocobolo ..in the Knife Scale size (apparently the size is used to make handles for knives, guns.. Not as popular, so fewer sorts of wood in this size.) One odd thing about the knife scale size is the similarity to the Golden Ratio, with the last length doubled. Does it mean anything??? just writing it down)
So I tried a bunch of those, and they are similar, just MORE OF whatever. So size matters.
I found IN MY SYSTEM, that the African Blackwood gave a lot more bass, more slam, more detail. But not more midrange.. Kind of highs and lows boosted. Cocobolo more even across the range, not as much detail accented. The Bolivian, and Honduran similar to the Cocobolo, but a little more clarity. (The Honduran is the worst piece to piece badly shaped, being way off the sizes, where the others a lot more even, and easier to work to get the exact same height. Which for me with no power tools, matters.

So after playing with those, I decided to try even bigger wood blocks. Bowl size, which can be 4" by 4" by 2" or 5x5 or 6x6 and two or three inches tall. I got some 2" by 4x4" and they again are offeing a bit more, (not as big a jump as from pen to knife scale). Primarily they are better under the Power conditioners. and one preamp power supply (they cost more, and are harder to buy in enough quality, I bought out TWO places to get them.. Just sayin'.
No African Blackwood as this size costs $33 a pop to $50 a pop... a lot of money to just experiment with. Plus the 2" height I cannot fit them in the rack much.

The improvements in the sound quality justify the endless fooling around. and I DO mean over and over changing the wood.. One preamp I would say I have changed to see what is happening.. two dozen times or more... Since it seem to be the most sensitive. (Threshold FET TEN) Other preamp a dozen, every thing else maybe a few times.. The improvements have peaked in multiple goosebumps up to bursting into tears.. That good. naturally I did not leave it like that, since it also had less clarity than I wanted. Just to say it was a lot of Cocobolo knife scales. (Cocobolo in 2"by 4X4 is unobtanum so it seems.).. And wamth like crazy.
I usually like more clarity, so even though it seems marvelous, I have to keep at it. maybe I can get both... So down off the mountaintop peak, and back to working on the sound.

Was it worth the money Hell Yes! For me, the main total saving grace is that my formerly a bit lean sounding system, which got that way from me chasing ever more clarity for years.. Now is warm and full and rich and wonderful PLUS being clear.. Amazing.
Of all the tweaks I have tried, usually and invariably anything that really gave more clarity, ALWAYS made the system leaner. ALWAYS.
Except the exotic wood. Somehow it can do both. and restore a bit of warmth all the other tweaks took away.
So this to me, is amazing.Finally something that adds all across the spectrum.
Now if your system is already warm, the wood bits may not do much. If you are lean or neutral, and want more warmth.. Do the exotic wood footers..

Problems: If you suck at any hand woodwork, and have zero tools. The exotic wood may not work out. Since I have had to Peel off endless wax (many come 'waxed') and had to file down the blanks to be the same size.
((best file is an automotive metal file with crescent teeth '0' size)) DO NOT SAND. particularly not power orbit sanding...sanding is bad, the dust may harm you. The filing creates no dust. A LOT of filing.. lots and lots. But if you happen to have wood workshop power tools You have it made. Getting four exactly the same height by hand, difficult. With power tools, easy. Or if you have someone who can help get them even height, and flat... wonderful.
I do not know if leaving the wood unfinished is going to matter. usually my just leaving wood to season works out fine, unfinished. But I have never done that with exotic wood. So I do not know. Maybe in two years I can say? Though I cannot see how a few cracks can matter anyway. So I am not worried.

This was a real thrilling experiment. I am amazed how much better my system sounds. IT really made a big jump in quality of listening.
I do not know if it can do as much for your setup. But for a few dollars worth of pen blanks.. you can see for yourself.

[mresseguie]

Another fact is the Walnut is much lighter in weight than the Maple. a 18" by 19" 3" thick Walnut is 12 pounds, and the Maple is 20. big difference. I just went for the Walnut first since no one uses Walnut.( iconoclast in me) I am assuming the Maple will have a different sound to it.
So this is the first post about a new area I am exploring.

This is something I didn't know. Of course, it makes sense that different hardwoods would have different densities, but I hadn't considered the possibility before. Thanks for mentioning it. I love the look of walnut, but I think I'll stick with maple for my own needs.

Michael

[Elizabeth]

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[Photon46]

((there is not proper place for this thread, so this circle is as close as I can find. hope it is OK))

(One thing about the wood. it is not all 'good looking' dark walnut. the wood had a lot of lighter areas. Which I did not know about Walnut. No problem, just mentioning it in case someone gets one, and is shocked the wood is 1/4 to 1/5 light grain Plus the 'end grain underside is still long grain. like they laid the vertical blocks on a 1/2" board then stuck it all together.
Another fact is the Walnut is much lighter in weight than the Maple. a 18" by 19" 3" thick Walnut is 12 pounds, and the Maple is 20. big difference. I just went for the Walnut first since no one uses Walnut.( iconoclast in me) I am assuming the Maple will have a different sound to it.
So this is the first post about a new area I am exploring.

At the relatively low price point of Butcher Block Acoustics , one would expect to get lumber that's a mix of heartwood and sapwood (the lighter stuff you mention.) It would drive the cost up considerably if they discarded all the material that had lighter sapwood. No idea if the different densities of sap vs. heartwood would affect tonality though. If you want to see tweaking out to the max by altering system tonality via wood platforms: https://www.michaelgreenaudio.net/platforms

It would be interesting to hear two systems of using same components in identical rooms, one "tuned" and one stock. That would be an interesting project for an audio show.

[Elizabeth]

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[NickMimi]

As far as footers are concerned, both under the blocks and equipment is the suggestion to use hard material or rubber/silicone style? My knowledge is limited on this topic, please forgive if the question has previously been delt with i did not re-search deeply, just curious.

[Elizabeth]

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[Mark Korda]

Hi, this is what I did. I call it the Down East Style. I live near Portland Maine. I went to a near by saw mill and found 2 inch thick Poplar and Pine rough-cut planks for cheap. The sides are busted up old lobster trap lathes that did some time in Casco Bay. The feet are called cookie's and they are threaded on a ground cable from a fishing trawl net. There stamped out of old tires and have a fabric in the rubber. There all over the place around here and a fisherman would give you all you need for free. I made some matching cabinets for the other Heath stuff too.......did any of you get any ideas from those old Mapleshade green catalogs you would get in the mail?......Mark.

[A_shah]

This is something I didn't know. Of course, it makes sense that different hardwoods would have different densities, but I hadn't considered the possibility before. Thanks for mentioning it. I love the look of walnut, but I think I'll stick with maple for my own needs.

Michael

Michael

I have a set of Maple blocks that I use to test equipment , but prefer to use the Rack,(WAF) Since you take a trip to Asia quite often have you ever looked at the possibility of Teak wood Blocks ? I wonder what is the density of teak wood  and how would they effect  the sound of an amplifier ? they sure would look pretty   

Asghar

[mresseguie]

Ashgar,

I've never considered Teak wood. However, there is a beautiful redwood (cedar?) native to Taiwan and there is stunning marble on the east coast that I have been tempted to try. My OCD WAF acceptable rack in Taiwan is a tempered glass Ikea TV stand which I dislike. I may someday take a hammer to it. 

[timind]

Why put butcher blocks on the shelves when you can build the shelves from butcher blocks?

Years ago I decided to go mini with all components and needed a small footprint rack. I settled on building my own out of butcher block. It worked as intended, but can't say what sonic attributes it had. Although it's long since dismantled, I still use the pieces when needed.

Rack:



In use:



Still using pieces:

[Hipper]

I've been influenced by this:

http://www.barrydiamentaudio.com/vibration.htm

After various experiments involving Townshend pods, bicycle tyres and Finite-Elemente Cerabase feet, I settled mostly on Symposium products (shelves and rollerblocks under all gear, shelves under the speakers).

When experimenting I was listening for improvements in the high frequencies - more detailed percussion etc. - and I got that with the CD Transport, amp and power regenerator, but heard no differences with my equaliser and DAC. The improvements were tiny and obviously not worth the money. However, after getting fed up with trying to hear these improvements I just sat back and listened for pleasure. What I found was that the music seemed a bit louder then usual (it was set to an exact volume) and things like rhythm guitar and piano just sounded more real, separate. It turns out that these are the symptoms of improvements in transient response. I didn't know this but that is exactly what the Symposium site describes. The Townshend pods and F-E Cerabase have the same effect.

Since then someone has pointed out that these rollerblocks get small indentations in the concave parts, so I looked and they do. I presume that must effect the outcome.

[Wayner]

I use Boos Block, maple cutting boards for my turntables. They have several sizes and are relatively low in cost, a nice product. Mine is 1.5" thick.

[Elizabeth]

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[sunnydaze]

My DIY Butcher Block rack:



I bought used BB tables on CraigsList, cut / sanded / refinished them, and slapped it all together with 80-20 center channel aluminum.  Just used 80-20 hardware and bolts / screws, no audiophile approved isolation devices or thingies.  It is massively heavy, solid and rigid.

[Elizabeth]

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[jk@home]

Been doing butcher block for years under my stuff, even made a rack with it. Not so much for sound quality, just looks and durability. Usually use the PE brass cones underneath. Always got the Snow River cutting boards from Bed, Bath, and Beyond, can't beat those 20% coupons. Didn't see them the last time I was in there, but Amazon has them.

https://www.amazon.com/Snow-River-7V03012-Hardwood-Butcher/dp/B00280MY22

[Bobu]

Added: went to local IKEA, (what a chore wandering giant space, round and round!) Anyway, I knew enter the Exit! closer to the butcher block stuff. Bought one thick 17 x 14 bamboo, two thin 17 x 11 bamboo and a 17 x 11 wood,
Stuck one thin with wrapping still on (in case wanted to return it) between top of Marantz SA-10 which had Threshold FET TEN sitting in top of it. So stuck the IKEA board between with rubber at very ends to lift 1/8"
DANG! sweeter ... suddenly Joni Mitchel's voice is a slight bit better.. tiny, but ...(I did it while playing music, since it was easy to slide it under..)
All this is so subtle.. Will take awhile to say yeah or nay.. (plus I really am waiting on some small ebony footers on the way.

I found the bamboo blocks to be a great positive. But the blocks that have long strands off bamboo sounded much better than the scooped off shorter strands.
I also found that purring some springs underneath also helped - a little like the Isoaccoustic Gaia footers.

[Elizabeth]

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[mresseguie]

I have a slightly OT question for you folks.

I've been tinkering with the idea of buying a couple 1.75" thick live edge slabs and mounting them on 4" wide welded steel arms (not sure how to describe it) for support. I could add sorbothane between the slab and the steel arms and bolt the slabs to the steel arms. My hope is that the thickness, the sorbothane, the bolts, and the steel arms would kill most (all?) resonance.

What do you think of this idea? Am I better off with butcher blocks? [I'm trying to avoid spending $3k on a rack for my equipment.]

If this is too OT, I'll remove my post and begin a new thread.

Thanks for your thoughts.

Michael