[vfrpilot]

I am having system upgrade fever and instead of spending thousands of dollars I would like to only spend hundreds.

I currently am running 1801a xovers with Theta caps. Although Dave is pretty adamant that the Theta's sound good (they do), I would like to hear what is possible from these speakers. I am soliciting input as to what would give the best upgrade for the money:

1. replace all caps with Sonicaps - keeping the existing 1801a xover topology with the exact sizes currently in the speaker.

2. replace tweeter cap with Sonicap and bypass the woofer Theta with a small Sonicap.

3. replace tweeter cap with something more exotic like Mundorf Supreme Oil Caps and bypass the woofer with Mundorf Supreme

4. Purchase the 1801b upgrade xover which includes Sonicaps, new resistors, Inductors and modifies topology for more lower midrange? *

5. any of the above + black hole 5

Thanks for any feedback or advice,

Aaron

*side note, when I have measured my in-room response, I do see a -6db dip in response from 60hz - 150hz. I have an apparent rise in response from 25hz-60hz. This topology change may help out this dip? Has anyone else had measured response of +5-10db at 25-30hz? This seemed unusual. Rives audio disc with RS meter measured in my 9 x 11 room with some treatments.

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Modded DVD transport | Ack Dack or Mensa DiO | Unico | TG audio cable | Ellis 1801a

[awm]

Not even close -- upgrade the xover to the "b" version.  Use BH5, too, but this is nowhere near as important.  I found the two versions, "a" vs "b", quite different and the "b" much more to my liking.  Better bass, better integration, and less strident tweet.

HTH,
Andy

[Al Garay]

I agree with Andy. Get the 1801b upgrade kit. The improvements are significant. You won't be reaching for the remote as often to turn down the volume, more friendly towards wide range of recordings.  Later, you can sell the Thetas and recover enough money to buy the BH5.

Andy, do you have any BH5 left that I can buy?

Al

[David Ellis]

*side note, when I have measured my in-room response, I do see a -6db dip in response from 60hz - 150hz. I have an apparent rise in response from 25hz-60hz. This topology change may help out this dip? Has anyone else had measured response of +5-10db at 25-30hz? This seemed unusual. Rives audio disc with RS meter measured in my 9 x 11 room with some treatments.

All rooms just get whacky below 300hz.  Probably the biggest indicator of this is running a sine wave through your speakers then walking around your room with the spl meter.  The meter will move without changing your volume control.  

I suggest you purchase the Master Handbook of Acoustics by Everest.  You will find very solid information therein.  And, it's a very pleasant read.

Get the 1801b upgrade kit. The improvements are significant. You won't be reaching for the remote as often to turn down the volume,

Yup me too.

I currently am running 1801a xovers with Theta caps.

These are expensive, and very good.  Gimme a call about this on... Saturday morning.  We can chat about the matter.  I think it'll be best for you to use the Theta's with some bypass caps to achieve the desired value.  I believe this is theoretically the best approach, but should explain all of the issues before you order a partial upgrade kit.

[awm]

Hi, Al -- no more BH5   .  Actually, I haven't had any since I built my 1801's a few years ago.  It's in both my Eton 11.2's and the Ellis'.  

I would go with one of the cheaper alternatives, anyway, though.  

Andy

[David Ellis]

I would go with one of the cheaper alternatives, anyway, though.

I am pretty sure the cheaper alternatives don't have the heavy layer of "stuff" that sticks to the cabinet wall.  I am not sure of the impact for this heavier layer directly against the cabinet wall, but this is worth mentioning.

As mentioned in previous posts & commentary, while I can hear the BH5 impact, I don't think it's a "value oriented option".  The stuff seems a bit expensive given it's impact.  Then, recently a few gents have expressed a great appreciation for BH5.  Following this commentary, maybe BH5 offers more personal impact than I personnal assess. In this regard, I am very thankful for the feedback of others on this forum  

[jackman]

The change from "A" crossover to the "B" version was very significant.  I would highly suggest making the move.  Dave beat me to the punch but I'd try to salvage as many components from the original (through the use of bypass caps) as possible.  Especially since you have some very high quality components in your original.  

The B version enabled me to pull the speakers out into the room without sounding thin.  I also really like the resistor options because they allow you to dial in your tweeter to your system and room.  As far as BH5, I can't help you.  I've used it on cabinets that were not as solid as Dave's and thought it made a difference.  The 1801 cabinets built by Dave Ellis are extremely well braced and very solid.  I don't know if it would be possible to make them any more solid.  

Good luck!  Post pictures!

Jack