[airmax89bg]

Can you please share the modified crossover schematic? I have CX50 and would like to upgrade it.

Thanks!

[OSIB16]

Can you please share the modified crossover schematic? I have CX50 and would like to upgrade it.

Thanks!

Sorry I didn’t draw a modded schematic. The best I can do for you is provide the following photo shown here...

[OSIB16]

PURPLE = 18 GAUGE TWEETER
WHITE = 18 GAUGE TWEETER
ORANGE = 16 GAUGE BASS/MID
YELLOW = 16 GAUGE BASS/MID



((ALL SOLID CORE WIRE. NOT STRANDED)))

((DON’T USE THINNER THAN 18 GAUGE WIRE FOR TWEETER, OTHERWISE TREBLE IS TOO BRIGHT))

[airmax89bg]

Thank you very much for the reply. So the original x-over design for your project remained the same as stock design?

I have some Van Den Hul CS-18 from other project and Jantzen Standard Cap so will tackle it soon. One of my concerns is that silver plated wire will be to bright sounding for tweeter.

I might as well post some pictures after its done.

[OSIB16]

Thank you very much for the reply. So the original x-over design for your project remained the same as stock design?

I have some Van Den Hul CS-18 from other project and Jantzen Standard Cap so will tackle it soon. One of my concerns is that silver plated wire will be to bright sounding for tweeter.

I might as well post some pictures after its done.

I have stuck with original circuit board layout. The worst thing you can do is to use silver for the tweeter. As it stands the tweeter suffers with excessive brightness. The best thing is to use 18 Gauge copper (solid core). The fatter you go with copper, the more you can reduce the treble.

[airmax89bg]

Thanks, will test it with VDH wire and see the result. The issue I am facing is how to solder the wire to tweeter terminal as the factory jack was not intended to be changed. Its quite narrow space for manipulating the soldering iron.

[OSIB16]

Thanks, will test it with VDH wire and see the result. The issue I am facing is how to solder the wire to tweeter terminal as the factory jack was not intended to be changed. Its quite narrow space for manipulating the soldering iron.

Just buy some female spade terminals from EBay. Very cheap and do the job. Link below...

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Insulated-Female-Spade-Terminals-Crimp-Connector-Electrical-Terminal-Wiring-Wire/132076481575?hash=item1ec05f2c27:g:aLkAAOSwc1FXYlm~

The other option is to reuse the original spade terminals. Use a thin flat screwdriver and a small pair of pliers to carefully prise them off the existing wires.

[marks-sf]

ALL INTERNAL WALLS OF CABINET LINED WITH 4.5MM THICK WOOL (ADHESIVE BACKED)...







WOODEN BISCUITS GLUED AND SCREWED INTO EACH CORNER. THE REAR SPEAKER PANEL SCREWS ONTO THESE TO SECURE IT TO THE BACK OF THE SPEAKER...

Jeff, just stumbled across this and it brought back memories as I used to sell these speakers. A couple of comment if I may...

Instead of damaging the cabinets with external screws for your biscuits, I would have recommended exposing an threaded .5-1" hex spacers in each corner which would also allow you to use machine screws. It is not clear that you did this but I would also use a gasket between the back panel and the enclosure. Hope you are enjoying them!

Mark

[Jeff]

They are not mine.  Agreed, I'd have done somethings different, but my advice there is not all that helpful post completion 

(OT) Making any headway on those SC3s?

[marks-sf]

Sorry, Jeff, I misattributed the post . RE:SC-3As, Awaiting on some pick tools.
 

[OSIB16]

Sorry, Jeff, I misattributed the post . RE:SC-3As, Awaiting on some pick tools.
 

Hi Marks, this was my CX-50 speaker, project. Thanks for the tip for attaching the rear metal panels. I’ll bear it in mind for the future. Luckily I only paid approx £50 for the speakers on EBay which is pretty cheap. Anyway; I cut the protruding screws off, and filled any small dents with a decent filler. Then I painted the cabinets. Below is the finished product which works great and are a vast improvement over the originals. By the way I also used a gasket tape equivalent between the rear metal panels and the cabinets, which stops any vibrations.

[OSIB16]

[xschop]

Great write-up. I found this thread searching for upgrade ideas to the CX100's.
I will be following suit on adding billet rear panels to them.

[xschop]

Wish the early C30's had a simpler x-over design like the 50's. However, got them rebuilt to factory specs/components. They sound excellent. Thanks for the input/advice again.

https://forum.polkaudio.com/discussion/199034/b-o-c30-rebuild#latest