0 Members and 1 Guest are viewing this topic. Read 5041 times.
+1 Photon. A slightly different example. Manipulating the atomic structure can be done naturally; Chrysler used to, maybe still does, sets their engine blocks out for a year to relieve stresses, before machining.cheerssteve
Yeah, it was something about the rusting acting as case hardening I think.
As to the prior comment about cryo treatment being inadvisable for springs, many in the automotive industry believe otherwise. Engine valve springs are routinely cryogenically treated in pretty much every type of high performance engine building these days; F1, NASCAR, etc. Longevity increases of several hundred percent are reported depending on the metallurgy of the springs.
OK so I got the GTX D Rhodium NCF’s.More on the downside, the treble has become "silvery" with a bit of hardness and brightness. There is more extension but the sound doesn’t seem like it has opened up yet and still sounds etched and shut in.I do hope the treble hardness and brightness goes away. How long does this take?
It does go away. it takes a long time to go away. (in relation to 5 hours.)Actually it can go away and then come back. then go away again. As others have reported.Once the Rhodium is broken in, the majority of folks say it is the best.I agree. And have actually swapped more Rhodium in, taking out gold.
I'm curious as some time has gone by... any updates?
I was amazed several years back when I upgraded outlets to the GTX-D rhodiums one at a time. the benefits are real.
If you are hesitant about trying them out, all I can say is that in my system, the Rhodium NCF balances out quite nicely after burn in. It is not as warm sounding as the Gold but is smooth, with an extended yet non fatiguing treble. I can say I prefer it to the Gold. What you have read here in this posts by others are pretty true to form. You just need to put up with the painful burn in process, knowing that you will be rewarded in the end, if your system is similar to mine.I have my power strip with preamp and all sources going to the Rhodium NCF. I still prefer the power amp to the Maestro for the added body and fullness that imparts.
(All of my powercords are Pangea, with gold plated plug parts, aside from the (now) Furutech '28' Rhodium plugs at the wall for my extension cords. The Rhodium take longer to sound good. But when they are broken in, they are better than the Gold in many areas. (the main not broken in effect is lean sounding with the Rhodium, alternating from normal, then lean, then way too much bass, back and forth, Until the Rhodium settles down, Others did say this roller coaster happens, but I had to experience it to believe it.)
I laugh my tail off when i hear about some of the nuts o things folks think improves soundBUT WAIT A MINUTEReally wall out lets are doomed from the start because of the snap off options tap between each out let on the unit, these little break away tabs are the only conductor between wire in and wire out, WHAT NOT TO DO, IF YOU CAN NOT TURN OFF BREAKER, OR/AND YOU HAVE NO ELECTRICIANS TAPEDON'T ATTEMPT THISWHAT TO DOon left and right sides of outlet, wrap some THIN OFC wire in a figure 8 between each top and bottom screw, solder lightly then put in and out inner wall " run" wires in screws, THEN COVER IT WELL WITH ELECTRICIANS TAPE,,,REAL WELL OR DO NOT MESS WITH IT.I know this needs a picture but i am way to drunk to use a camera.
I wonder why manufacturers that choose Rhodium simply send you their product and leave you to wonder.
I tried some Rhodium connectors some time back. Hard Pass. In fact when I think about it, I don't really see any actual advantages to using Rhodium other than the much touted but kind of useless (for audio purposes) attribute of being super durable and wear-resistant. Conductivity is lower than copper and about on par with Brass IIRC.
I don't really see any actual advantages to using Rhodium other than the much touted but kind of useless (for audio purposes) attribute of being super durable and wear-resistant. Conductivity is lower than copper and about on par with Brass IIRC.
Keep in mind that you're talking about contacts, not wire. Contact resistance is a function of more than just the bulk conductivity of the contact metal, including at least harness, surface cleanliness, and contact force. (I've seen various equations/definitions over the years, and I'm going from memory.) The hardness and oxidation resistance of rhodium allows for much higher contact force and a surface that will stay clean and stable over time, both of which help reduce the contact resistance.For the wire itself, protected inside insulation and not subject to oxidation or external forces, absolutely, bulk resistivity be the driving parameter, and as you state, copper wins handily over rhodium in that scenario.
Page created in 0.053 seconds with 27 queries.