Computer audio - cheap tweaks

Lol999 · « **on:** 15 Dec 2017, 10:28 pm »

Like it says, what cheap tweaks are there for computer audio users, particularly those of us who use usb dacs?

FullRangeMan · « **Reply #1 on:** 15 Dec 2017, 10:43 pm »

On 4 yeas all my female CPU usb outputs corroded also two PS2, I have only 2 in working conditions that iam using for mouse and keyboard, so my tip is no use sino usb port connectors.

zoom25 · « **Reply #2 on:** 15 Dec 2017, 10:57 pm »

Good tips + a script for mac to disable/enable lot of things: http://www.sonicstudio.com/amarra/howtobuildaserver.php

I also like Audirvana Plus on Mac which also allows for optimization.

Audioquest Jitterbug on the iMac's USB port. $50

Belkin Gold USB (double shielded) is well priced. $10-$20.

The best thing for computer audio is to have the computer in another room and circuit far away from the audio system. Send audio stream over ethernet or wifi to a nearby renderer in the audio system. Electrical and EMI isolation is a good thing. This can get pricy though.

Tubeburner · « **Reply #3 on:** 16 Dec 2017, 05:02 am »

Quote

The best thing for computer audio is to have the computer in another room and circuit far away from the audio system. Send audio stream over ethernet or wifi to a nearby renderer in the audio system. Electrical and EMI isolation is a good thing. This can get pricy though.

I agree. A cheap way to try this out is with a Raspberry Pi 3 as a DLNA renderer with Rune Music Server.

maty · « **Reply #4 on:** 16 Dec 2017, 08:30 am »

You need:

1. Silent PC with a clean and silent PSU with low ripple.

2. You need to optimize the S.O.

3. And with USB DAC the problem is if USB powered from computer. Then you need to clean like me with my ODAC.

Würth 150 kHz ferrite in the USB cable (mine is the original cheap printer). Old picture:

[IMG] http://maty.galeon.com/WP-imagenes/hard/ODAC-with_rear_RCA_outputs-Wurth-ferrite-150Khz.jpg

Two Würth 150 kHz ferrites in RCA cable at the end that connects to the amplifier / preamp.

[IMG] http://maty.galeon.com/WP-imagenes/hard/RCA-cables-Wurth-150-khz-ferrites.jpg

and.... do not waste money with jitterbug and others.

maty · « **Reply #5 on:** 16 Dec 2017, 08:36 am »

Somewhere over the rainbow I posted:

Quote

https://audiosciencereview.com/forum/index.php?threads/topping-d30-dac-measurement-and-review.2016/page-2#post-58108

[ I tested the jitterbug before forming ASR Forum. It came free with my iFi iDAC. As you can imagine, it does nothing. ]

There are two graphs more.

WGH · « **Reply #6 on:** 16 Dec 2017, 04:06 pm »

What type of computer and operating system? There are more options if your computer is in a box that can be opened, a laptop doesn't have too many tweaks, it will always be a noisy, jitter generating music player. Like maty, I am not a fan of the Jitterbug or UpTone Audio USB Regen if you have a dedicated silent pc with a low ripple power supply with an audio grade USB card like the V2 Paul Pang card then those add-ons do more harm than good. But if you are using a laptop then the Jitterbug or UpTone Audio USB Regen probably will make an improvement. Used Jitterbugs come up for sale often so with a little patience you can pick one up for cheap. Someone on AudioCircle probably has one sitting unused in their parts drawer right now.

Wayne

Lol999 · « **Reply #7 on:** 16 Dec 2017, 04:24 pm »

Forgot to add I use a Lenovo laptop i7 running windows 10. No chance of a separate pc etc it's just the laptop, my dac and me!
Maty I'm interested in your usb cables - are they a specific brand or wire gauge?

maty · « **Reply #8 on:** 16 Dec 2017, 04:50 pm »

You do not need any audiophile USB cable. Modern dacs use the ASC protocol, which avoids jitter during data sending on the cable.

If you do not have DAC, avoid buying one that only allows USB power.

But there are other problem, BIG PROBLEM: jitter generated by the HDD, memory and the CPU. Once that jitter is generated we can not eliminate, we have to prevent it before.

For months I have been using a specific defragmenter for music (and soft players too) that ensures that it reduces jitter. The only thing I know is that I notice much improvement. The sound is more analog, natural.

Rewrite Data, inside the soft player Bug head:

https://www.google.com/search?q=bug+head+rewrite+data

My usual soft player, with W10 Pro: JRiver Media Center 23, well configurared/optimized too like windows. From version 22 the sound was clearly better than with foobar2000 (optimized too).

In my Linux I have never achieved the same sound quality as in my superoptimized windows to play multimedia.

PS: analog sound, natural, credible when you listen good records, without electronic instruments and...

This afternoon (weekend: clean power) sounds very beautiful:

* Michel Camilo & Tomatito - Spain Again (2006) [FLAC]

https://www.discogs.com/es/Michel-Camilo-Tomatito-Spain-again/release/7932814

* Michel Petrucciani - So What (Best Of) (2004) [FLAC]

https://www.discogs.com/es/Michel-Petrucciani-So-What-Best-Of-/release/5490236

WGH · « **Reply #9 on:** 16 Dec 2017, 05:24 pm »

I started out my computer audio journey with a new 2008 Toshiba laptop running Windows Vista, a HagUSB SPDIF converter and a used Scott Nixon tube DAC with generic cables and was more than happy. The Jitterbug wasn't invented yet.

You have to work with what you got. Modern DAC's may avoid jitter but USB cables do sound different. An improvement over the generic USB cable is the $20 Schiit Pyst USB cable which is exactly the same as the $42 Straightwire USB-Link. I used one for years, best bang for the buck USB cable available. But don't just take my word for it, read the review by a trusted AudioCircle member: http://www.audiocircle.com/index.php?topic=135255.0

A free tweak is try different USB ports on your laptop, depending on how they are wired they can sound different. Then get a Pyst cable and a Jitterbug and you are done tweaking.

Doublej · « **Reply #10 on:** 16 Dec 2017, 05:28 pm »

I believe there is a post somewhere on AC regarding which USB port to plug your DAC into to optimize SQ.

WC · « **Reply #11 on:** 16 Dec 2017, 05:36 pm »

Quote from: Tubeburner on 16 Dec 2017, 05:02 am

I agree. A cheap way to try this out is with a Raspberry Pi 3 as a DLNA renderer with Rune Music Server.

+1, really like using the Raspberry Pi as a renderer. I am using Volumino as an airplay destination currently. Files stored on a network connected computer and stream to the Raspberry Pi via Ethernet. Have the Raspberry Pi connected to a Schitt Modi DAC.

wushuliu · « **Reply #12 on:** 16 Dec 2017, 05:40 pm »

Quote from: Lol999 on 16 Dec 2017, 04:24 pm

Forgot to add I use a Lenovo laptop i7 running windows 10. No chance of a separate pc etc it's just the laptop, my dac and me!
Maty I'm interested in your usb cables - are they a specific brand or wire gauge?

I'm sure Maty will have lots to say, but I'll just say I disagree with some it. First off, ask yourself if you need a usb cable at all if a couple of adapters will work instead (USB A to C adapter, etc). So instead of a meter of cable you've got just a couple inches. That way you have a very short signal path that no amount of $$$ on usb cables can compensate for.

Power supply quality cannot be overstated. You've got a limited budget I'm sure and limited options with the laptop so my recommendation to at least get an IFI iDefender. If you can shell out for the iPower supply as well, even better. iPurifier on top of that, even better still.

I do a lot of diy as well, so if you have even minimal skills option up even more like replacing the ipower with an LT3045 power supply.

It's all about power supply and in your case, the more you can separate signal/power between the dac and laptop the better.

Not going to debate software except for Rewrite Data and Bughead: They are not user-friendly and involve endless constant tweaking. Avoid.

wushuliu · « **Reply #13 on:** 16 Dec 2017, 05:44 pm »

Quote from: WC on 16 Dec 2017, 05:36 pm

+1, really like using the Raspberry Pi as a renderer. I am using Volumino as an airplay destination currently. Files stored on a network connected computer and stream to the Raspberry Pi via Ethernet. Have the Raspberry Pi connected to a Schitt Modi DAC.

The Pi situation is definitely on the cusp of serious audiophile consideration for me. I'm gonna give it another year as it sounds like some good stuff from Allo is about to break through...

maty · « **Reply #14 on:** 16 Dec 2017, 05:47 pm »

The real problem with power and interconnection cables is the RF/EMI atmospheric. You can build a cable that works like a low pass filter or use pro technology, proved, much better and cheaper like Würth 150 kHz ferrites, Schaffner RF/EMI filters... and star quad cables too.

Some audiophile USB cables do not meet the standard and cause more problems than a cheap one.

If we avoid powering via USB we will do better.

Lol999 · « **Reply #15 on:** 16 Dec 2017, 06:14 pm »

Well I've just bought the Sabaj Da2, but I do like the look of a raspberry Pi rig which is available here for a bargain price: https://www.amazon.co.uk/Vilros-Raspberry-Pi-Complete-Starter/dp/B01D0BKLZY/ref=sr_1_10?ie=UTF8&qid=1513447196&sr=8-10&keywords=raspberry+pi+uk

Lol999 · « **Reply #16 on:** 16 Dec 2017, 06:33 pm »

Well I took the advice and bought the Raspberry Pi kit. At £55 it strikes me as a no-brainer cost wise. It comes Wednesday, I'll give an update when it's done and running.
Cheers, Lol

HAL · « **Reply #17 on:** 16 Dec 2017, 06:38 pm »

The iFi iUSB worked very well for minimizing power and ground noise from my netbook to my DAC. The ground isolation function cleaned it up well. Easily heard with my setup and the Super-V speakers as they are higher sensitivity design.

The USB Regent did not work in that case.

brother love · « **Reply #18 on:** 16 Dec 2017, 06:52 pm »

Quote from: zoom25 on 15 Dec 2017, 10:57 pm

The best thing for computer audio is to have the computer in another room and circuit far away from the audio system. Send audio stream over ethernet or wifi to a nearby renderer in the audio system. Electrical and EMI isolation is a good thing. This can get pricy though.

Agree 100% with zoom25 & others re: this.

I went the Win 10 mini PC route for a network audio adapter/ player for a whopping $87: https://www.gearbest.com/tv-box-mini-pc/pp_562950.html?wid=21 I also added an iFi iPower power supply for $49.

Coupled with HQPlayer $145, you can upsample all your 16 bit music to whatever your DAC & computer power allows (in my case DSD256).

Add some cheap ethernet cables, & it really takes music to a whole new level for less than $300.

I.Greyhound Fan · « **Reply #19 on:** 16 Dec 2017, 07:06 pm »

The AQ Jitterbug is a nice tweak for $48. I bought one for my son to use with his Emotiva Big Ego DAC and it took that DAC to another level as far as sound quality is concerned. Blacker background, cleaner sound, more detail, tighter bass. An Uptone Regen also can markedly improve the sound but both of these are system dependent. I think that they will tend to help more with a budget DAC. Investing in a good USB cable can make a nice difference but again, usb cables are system dependent. The Cableco will allow you to rent 5 cables at a time and apply the cost to a purchase.

Also, turning off all unnecessary programs running in the background can help. I turn off my antivirus on my audio computers unless I am downloading. Fidalyzer is a program that may help although I have not found it to make a difference in my system. There is a free version that you can try.

I recently switched from a dedicated high end laptop for audio to a high end desktop that I built and the sound is markedly better. I used a great power supply with low ripple along with a good motherboard with quality caps. I was stunned at the improvement in sound- blacker background, more detail, resolution and musicality.

Larry