[Danny Richie]

Thanks to Mike Lundy for sending me a couple of Flat 5 boxes to use for testing.



I set one up last night and used it for testing. It worked out great. This is going to make an excellent center channel. From the bottom of its range to 4kHz it was within about +/-1db. It handles the vocal region really well and was a dead match for the Skinny 6's. 

I also built a make shift wall above and below it and tested it as an in-wall design. This drops the step loss compensation filter, and raises the sensitivity about 2db. It also still maintained the flat response. So for you guys that are looking for something to build into a wall, this might be what you are looking for.

These will have decent power handling, but not high power handling. They are not for high SPL applications. They are for clarity and a very natural and accurate sound. Also really good for small rooms, bed rooms, or rooms with little to no acoustic room treatment as the little 3" driver has a more controlled off axis response, and is not at all bright or hot in the top end.

Also, vertical and horizontal off axis responses look great. They will give a consistent sound regardless of seating position.

The complete kit includes all drivers, crossover parts, tube connectors, wire, solder, screws, heat shrink, and ports. Only $279 per speaker.

[Captainhemo]

Cool ,I bet the skinny 6's  and flat 5 are  going to be  a great start to a HT setup in a small/med sized room 

jay

[Danny Richie]

Cool ,I bet the skinny 6's  and flat 5 are  going to be  a great start to a HT setup in a small/med sized room 

jay

People are typically floored by the sound of the Skinny 6's. They image like crazy. It is a really big sound from a small speaker.

I'm going to be using the skinny 6's in my new theater room with the Flat 5 and that is saying a lot. I could put anything in there.

Wife acceptance factor is really high too.   

[Peter J]

I wondered when this might materialize.

And now no more wondering....

Glad to see it happen Danny and Mike. I may have to build 'em to further my spiral into speaker madness. Is it ready for prime-time Danny, or are you still in process?

[Danny Richie]

I wondered when this might materialize.

And now no more wondering....

Glad to see it happen Danny and Mike. I may have to build 'em to further my spiral into speaker madness. Is it ready for prime-time Danny, or are you still in process?

I have finalized the design. It's solid.

I'll be building out two units for pictures and stuff. Then I just have to get all the information arranged for the website.

[mlundy57]

Time to start gluing again. I cut and milled all the parts for a pair of Skinny 6s and a Flat 5 while building these prototypes.

I'm not sure if I want to pair them with the LGK 1.0 or the A/V-1RS for surround duty. The LGKs would keep the form factor and drivers the same throughout the system but the A/V-1RS is a killer surround speaker.

Mike

[Danny Richie]

Time to start gluing again. I cut and milled all the parts for a pair of Skinny 6s and a Flat 5 while building these prototypes.

I'm not sure if I want to pair them with the LGK 1.0 or the A/V-1RS for surround duty. The LGKs would keep the form factor and drivers the same throughout the system but the A/V-1RS is a killer surround speaker.

Mike

That's a tough question to answer Mike.

[mlundy57]

I'll probably build out a pair of each and see what they sound like.

[cody69]

Great to see these Danny and glad to see you're finding time to get the designs completed.

I am currently using 2 LGKs for improved sound from a flat screen in my exercise room.
They're doing an amazing job -- and the Flat 5 will take this to new levels!

[cody69]

I'm not sure if I want to pair them with the LGK 1.0 or the A/V-1RS for surround duty. The LGKs would keep the form factor and drivers the same throughout the system but the A/V-1RS is a killer surround speaker.

I'll probably build out a pair of each and see what they sound like.

Mike - no wrong answers here. I get your point about using the LGK for surrounds... form factor and consistent drivers... and that's probably what I'd do as well. But I'm also using a pair of AV-1RSs and think the world of them also.

[Nick77]

Photo looks deceiving, what are the measurements of the box?

[Danny Richie]

Photo looks deceiving, what are the measurements of the box?

See drawings:   http://gr-research.com/pdf/Flat%205%20drawings.pdf

[oz_audio_todd]

Just curious, but wouldn't an actual tweeter in the middle there (the 26 or the neo) give you a response +/- 1dB or so across the range, 94 duBs of sensitivity, 100w or so of power handling, still give you your smooth vocal region and as a sealed unit be fairly easy to build fantastic top end built onto the top of a couple (or I guess you could do just the one per side) servo 12's? 

[Danny Richie]

Just curious, but wouldn't an actual tweeter in the middle there (the 26 or the neo) give you a response +/- 1dB or so across the range, 94 duBs of sensitivity, 100w or so of power handling, still give you your smooth vocal region and as a sealed unit be fairly easy to build fantastic top end built onto the top of a couple (or I guess you could do just the one per side) servo 12's?

It sounds like a good idea to me.

But the LGK drivers are just 8 ohm drivers, so a pair of them will drop impedance's down into the 3 ohm range.

I did an MMTMM version with the Wedges to keep sensitivity high and the impedance at 8 ohms. That worked pretty well.

But the Flat 5 is a low cost design that does work really well though, and the 3" driver minimizes the off axis response that tends to be a problem with untreated rooms. It is just not going to provide high SPL levels. It has it's place.

[Danny Richie]

I have been working on getting the cabinets coated with Duratex and painted. So I should have some completed pics shortly.

The complete kit for the Flat 5 includes all drivers, crossover parts, tube connectors, wire, solder, screws, heat shrink, and ports. Only $279 per speaker.

[LittleWoodenBoy]

I have a couple of questions. 
1) I would be sliding this into a built-in base cabinet instead of some drawers.  The opening for the drawers is about 58" wide and 5" tall.  My very limited understanding of how speakers works tell me I cannot change the baffle dimensions in a traditional vertical line of drivers, but for this it might be ok?  Could I expand the baffle to fill that space without causing problems?

2) On the drawings linked above, some dimensions are wonky.  The far right edge of both the "brace placement" and "Front baffle" drawings show the dimension from the outside of the top to the inside of the bottom as 2.25"  That seems both an odd dimension to spec and unless I'm misunderstanding, the number seems off.  Then on the "brace placement" drawing, across the bottom, the first dimension on the right says 5"  I assume that should be a 0.5"?

3) I see the drawings are linked to the GR webpage, but I cannot find the speakers on the page anywhere.  If I wanted to order a kit, how should I go about doing that?

Thanks,
Mike

[Peter J]

I have a couple of questions. 
1) I would be sliding this into a built-in base cabinet instead of some drawers.  The opening for the drawers is about 58" wide and 5" tall.  My very limited understanding of how speakers works tell me I cannot change the baffle dimensions in a traditional vertical line of drivers, but for this it might be ok?  Could I expand the baffle to fill that space without causing problems?

2) On the drawings linked above, some dimensions are wonky.  The far right edge of both the "brace placement" and "Front baffle" drawings show the dimension from the outside of the top to the inside of the bottom as 2.25"  That seems both an odd dimension to spec and unless I'm misunderstanding, the number seems off.  Then on the "brace placement" drawing, across the bottom, the first dimension on the right says 5"  I assume that should be a 0.5"?

3) I see the drawings are linked to the GR webpage, but I cannot find the speakers on the page anywhere.  If I wanted to order a kit, how should I go about doing that?

Thanks,
Mike

1. Cabinet is 4 1/2" high overall, so you'd have 1/2" space? Perhaps split between top and bottom with some feet? Likely to be shadow-y in there anyway and you need some clearance to slide it in. Expanding the baffle side to side with some "wings" probably wouldn't hurt anything, but maybe just build something to fill that space. Or CDs. Or gargoyles...your call.

2. Looks like an error, I'd just disregard it and use the dimension on opposite side. The decimal inches are something you get used to and just require a little calculation. I like to have drivers on hand to double check anyway.

3. You'd call Danny. And you get to experience that relaxed Texas drawl, well worth it!

[Danny Richie]

1) You could add a little air space to each end for the outer woofers and still be okay. I designed them to be a bit on the tight side to conserve space as it is fairly wide. The added space will drop the output just a little on the bottom end but extend it just a little too.

2) Corrections made to the drawings and I will save and re-upload the corrections shortly.

3) Peter is correct. Call us up and order from the Texan and hear a slight drawl.

[Danny Richie]

I have finished a pair of the flat 5's now.



One is going in the theater room that I am building in my new house flanked by a pair of Skinny 6's.

The other is going in my bedroom just under the flat screen that is mounted on the wall.

[cody69]

The other is going in my bedroom just under the flat screen that is mounted on the wall.

Looks great Danny! Are you using this as a sound bar for the bedroom setup? Would the Flat 5 design lend itself to being used as a sound bar?