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I will probably run the woofers in series but still add binding posts to each woofer and then do the series connection via the binding posts. Then I will have the option to change the woofers to 8 ohm drivers in the future, if I wish to do so.
I'm not entirely sure I follow that. I would use temporary wiring rather than bring out every woofer terminal for later wiring. It's OB, it's not like you have to dismantle a box to change wiring On the amp thing, first determine which equipment the noise is from. This does actually expose a potential flaw with active speakers, which is that out-of-band noise is not attenuated (as it is with a passive crossover). If you have a driver with e.g. a large resonant peak at 3-4 kHz, system noise could be magnified by 10-20 dB in the most sensitive hearing range.
The pic you posted looks a little like an infiltration of low voltage DC. If so, this could be a regulator / internal amp repair.
The botton woofer is too hi from the floor.The other image schema is better for bass freq.
Extend the mid and tweeter baffle to fill the entire area and then offset the two drivers so they are not symmetrically mounted. Add some fiber behind the mid and tweeter or trim away the sides and top to eliminate the cavity.
Any alarms ringing with the design below?
If it were me I'd use the small baffle in your earlier rendering but remove the frame around it.
Maybe you can make it so that the top piece holding the midrange and tweeter is removable. Then you can measure different baffles
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