My Harman (JBL M2) Trip

JoshK · « **Reply #460 on:** 9 Dec 2018, 01:13 am »

ok, guess I always associated you with it cause of the photo.

I wouldn't get that sub anyway, I'd do a distributed bass solution for even bass in the room be it 2ch or mch.

jtwrace · « **Reply #461 on:** 9 Dec 2018, 01:22 am »

Quote from: JoshK on 9 Dec 2018, 01:13 am

ok, guess I always associated you with it cause of the photo.

I wouldn't get that sub anyway, I'd do a distributed bass solution for even bass in the room be it 2ch or mch.

Yes, of course.

Molham · « **Reply #462 on:** 4 Jan 2019, 07:44 am »

Quote from: jtwrace on 27 Apr 2017, 12:57 pm

Right. FWIW, the two top engineers at JBL recommended the DCi. The one uses DCi on his personal system with M2's and obviously he can have anything he wants. I'll also add that after my specific amp questions there was no doubt that the DCi was the way to go unless I was into spending more money (which I was more than willing to do) that was unnecessary. Also important to note that JBL wouldn't go through the process of tuning files for different amps if it wasn't sufficient. The way they do it is quite resourceful so they wouldn't waste their time if it didn't meet specs.

Great thanks to you man!!!
I've been having my M2 for over 2 years without being able to listen to them. After buying them, I got some shortage and couldn't put $6K in dual ITECH's
and was still hoping to get that cash soon.
I just came across this DCI and did some research which brought me to this thread.
I just I can't express my happiness to know that I can finally have my M2 to sing for me after long wait...

jtwrace · « **Reply #463 on:** 28 Jul 2020, 02:30 am »

Quote from: Molham on 4 Jan 2019, 07:44 am

Great thanks to you man!!!
I've been having my M2 for over 2 years without being able to listen to them. After buying them, I got some shortage and couldn't put $6K in dual ITECH's
and was still hoping to get that cash soon.
I just came across this DCI and did some research which brought me to this thread.
I just I can't express my happiness to know that I can finally have my M2 to sing for me after long wait...

Great!

jtwrace · « **Reply #464 on:** 28 Jul 2020, 03:16 pm »

My only change is the dac. Now have the Topping D90

kingdeezie · « **Reply #465 on:** 28 Jul 2020, 06:04 pm »

Quote from: jtwrace on 28 Jul 2020, 03:16 pm

My only change is the dac. Now have the Topping D90

Didn’t you have the Mola DAC before?? Is the Topping superior, or do you just find the differences negligible?

jtwrace · « **Reply #466 on:** 28 Jul 2020, 06:32 pm »

Quote from: kingdeezie on 28 Jul 2020, 06:04 pm

Didn’t you have the Mola DAC before?? Is the Topping superior, or do you just find the differences negligible?

Yep I did. Well, at $600 the D90 is shocking and quite frankly I can't justify the extra cost. As you know, digital moves, well, as fast as digital and over the last few years things have really progressed. The only thing missing is the Ethernet input so I use an Allo USBridge which is no biggie. Sonically it's delicious.

jtwrace · « **Reply #467 on:** 26 Aug 2020, 07:11 pm »

New sub build pics coming soon.

jtwrace · « **Reply #468 on:** 28 Aug 2020, 12:47 pm »

Starting assembly

jtwrace · « **Reply #469 on:** 28 Aug 2020, 04:46 pm »

All assembled - flat pack is nice and MDF still sucks

jtwrace · « **Reply #470 on:** 28 Aug 2020, 04:51 pm »

Still looks so tiny (it's not) compared to my other sidewall DIY sub

jtwrace · « **Reply #471 on:** 28 Aug 2020, 05:07 pm »

Had to install the Neutrik connector. Thanks to TomS for the suggestion of the 2" Forstner bit.

jtwrace · « **Reply #472 on:** 28 Aug 2020, 05:16 pm »

Next was some sanding. I chose to use an orbital sander with 80 grit to knock the overhang of the baffle off and really get the MDF smooth. As my previous painting training has taught me the prep work is the dirtiest and certainly the most important for the final finish. I used BIN Primer that I had tinted as a white base with black Duratex going over didn't make any sense to me. I did one coat of BIN then sanded with 120 grit and repeated.

jtwrace · « **Reply #473 on:** 28 Aug 2020, 05:23 pm »

I like to finish the inside. If it was ever sold and someone opened it, I like it to look finished. Also, it really cuts down on the possible MDF dust and just makes it so much nicer to me. How crappy is it to open a speaker and see it raw and cheesy inside? Yuck. Doesn't take much more effort to make it look a bit nicer and an advantage of diy since you're not against the Excel Sheet of the bottom line.

jtwrace · « **Reply #474 on:** 28 Aug 2020, 05:28 pm »

2-3 coats of Duratex provides an excellent finish. I have found that while you put it on heavy, it really takes rolling it in all directions to smooth it out evenly. Then for the final finish, you slowly roll one direction with no pressure with 50% overlap. No zebra stripes and a consistent texture.

jtwrace · « **Reply #475 on:** 28 Aug 2020, 05:31 pm »

jtwrace · « **Reply #476 on:** 28 Aug 2020, 05:36 pm »

Next up was waiting a few days for the Duratex to harden (takes up to 7 days) enough to handle the cabinet. Spent lots of time on the water during this time.

jtwrace · « **Reply #477 on:** 28 Aug 2020, 05:40 pm »

I really dislike drivers being held in with wood screws. If you ever need to remove a driver more than once, the hole is usually buggered up as it's not really made for multiple disassembly. So how does one deal with that? Tee Nuts! This is how I use them...

First you need to purchase some quality tee nuts as these are meant for a permanent installation. I will be using SHCS as my finish bolt to hold the 45 lb 18" driver in.

So you get the Tee Nuts and some basic grade 5 bolts with washers along with PL Adhesive as seen below. See where this is going?

jtwrace · « **Reply #478 on:** 28 Aug 2020, 05:42 pm »

Now this is very important. If you get the PL on the threads of the Tee Nut, you're screwed!

So I put 3 dabs around the side of the Tee Nut like below.

jtwrace · « **Reply #479 on:** 28 Aug 2020, 05:47 pm »

So the little teeth on the Tee Nut are obviously meant to penetrate the substrate - MDF in this case. If you hammer them in, the teeth get bent and mangled and usually cause more harm than good and also put the Tee Nut in crooked which can lead to cross-threaded bolts. That is a nightmare!

So using those grade 5 bolts and washers you "draw" the Tee Nut up into the substrate. DO NOT tighten too tight, just enough to squeeze the extra PL out and hold it. Remember: The PL is really what is holding the Tee Nut, not those goofy teeth. I personally like to leave the bolts in for 48 hrs to make absolute certain the PL has fully cured.