[zachary80]

Right now, it would be hooked up to a pimeta then my Sennheiser hd580's, but possibly other things later on.

Right now here are the two things I am thinking of:
New CIAudio VDA1
Used SACDMods Sony DVP NS-500V (with multichannel mods)

Most of my CD's are redbook; only a few are SACD.

I don't have a very good transport for the DAC, but I would rather buy new so I may resell easier and in case it has problems. How long do CD Players normally last?

Which route do you think I should go?

[JLM]

I just scored a slightly used Sony DVP-S7700 CD/DVD player that is supposed to make an excellent transport (on the same level as some Mark Levinson stuff) for about $200.  Original list was $1200, it was Sony's top of the line DVD.  And it can be modded for even better performance.

Regarding DACs,

Several provide significant steps up from ordinary CD players (art DI/O, Ack dAck!, Scott Nixon TubeDac, and Channel Islands Audio).  But it seems that the Benchmark and Perpetual Technology P-3A are a step above.  All but the Benchmark have modifications available.  The DI/O is too strong with a warm sound in stock form, most advise to go to Wayne at Boulder Cable for the full mesna mod with power supply ($650).  dAck! doesn't recommend mods and has low output, but is battery powered and provides a very black background ($525, $1050 modded by Empirical Audio).  TubeDac is the cheapest built, warm sound, not recommended for mods ($600, $900 modded by Empricial Audio).  Channel Island is simple, has approved mods available ($350, $700 fully equipped/Modwright modded).  Benchmark is $975.  P-3A is $800 stock and can be modded by Modwright or Empricial Audio or mated with the P-1A with cost running over $3000.

[Jon L]

"All but the Benchmark have modifications available"

True...  Yet I know that someone we know (wink) is getting a Benchmark to evaluate the mod potential.  Stayed tuned.  

As for the original question, you have a computer, don't you?  I would either buy a used Apogee miniDAC with USB input or a modded E-Mu soundcard and use the computer as transport.  It will likely sound better than any of the options you mentioned.  I've seen some people selling their modded E-Mu cards for like $300 on head-fi.  I've seen the Apogee for like $900 on A-gon.  There's also Mytek pro DAC's, etc, etc.

[zachary80]

I didn't word that very well....I am looking to spend about $350 for either a cd player or dac.

I have a couple problems with computer as a source. For one the fans and hard drives are noisy and I am not willing to put more money in to silence it. Secondly, I don't think it is as easy for a source to sound as good in an environment with so much interference.

[JLM]

C I Audio should be good and endorses mods by Modwright.  I'd look at Scott Nixon DACs and the audiogon market too.  

Dan Wright sells C I Audio and likes it, yet can't seem to improve it much.  That probably says a great deal.

[Hantra]

I'd look at Scott Nixon DACs

Ditto. . .

[zachary80]

The Chibi Saru is the only one in my price range. Any idea how it compares?

Has anyone heard the DAC-AH or DAC-72?

How much should I spend on a digital cable if I get one?

Has anyone heard a modded Toshiba sd3960 or know about their build quality?

Here are the links of things I am looking at:
http://eshop.diyclub.biz/product_info.php?cPath=23_35&products_id=32
or
http://eshop.diyclub.biz/product_info.php?cPath=23_135&products_id=270
or
http://www.scott-nixon.com/dac.htm
or
http://ciaudio.com/vda1.html
or
http://www.asi-audio.com/ToshibaSD-3950.html
or
http://www.sacdmods.com/NS500V.htm

[Zero]

I am much in the same boat.  I am damn near loosing sleep over deciding what to get. So many Dac options, scott nixon and used musetech being at the forefront of my thoughts.  But then again, the Jolida JD-100 with some mods can be had for the same price it would cost me to get a transport along with a dac.  Through in an extra power cord and digital cable into the equasion, and things start adding up - fast.

Good luck in your quest bud! I wish I had suggestions to give, but my experience is ziltch when it comes to top notch sources.

[rosconey]

the toshiba 3950-60 when modded is considered quite good-
posts ran for months over  at aa about the modded units, only cost about half what you want to spend-can you solder and swap parts?
if you can scrape up a few more bucks the shengya s10 is a very nice unit-sound and build

[zachary80]

the toshiba 3950-60 when modded is considered quite good-
posts ran for months over  at aa about the modded units, only cost about half what you want to spend-can you solder and swap parts?
if you can scrape up a few more bucks the shengya s10 is a very nice unit-sound and build

Do you mean the player and parts to do DIY modding on the toshiba is about half my price range? Have you read anything about it's reliability and build quality? I assume it is not so good because it costs so little. If I

I have never soldered before but it seems like it might be a useful skill to learn. Is the difficulty in the practice? I read through a couple guides and by looking it seems my parts (to get started) for DIY would be about $80
http://tangentsoft.net/audio/new-diyer.html#starter-kit

I found a S10 in my price range, until you add in the $150 shipping

I am looking to spend $350. I could spend more, but I have decided not to (maybe some extra if it is for DIY things)

[rosconey]

http://johnswenson1.home.comcast.net/3950_mod/Toshiba_3950_3960_mods.html

http://home.nc.rr.com/keihin/toshiba3950/vinniemods.htm


also a member here did a mod to the new toshiba multi player-i cant find it though-

you can get a modded new 3960 unit at agon for $325 i think-its a bit cheaper diy thing

[IanVan]

...
How much should I spend on a digital cable if I get one?

...

Several pro audio cable manufactureres make digital interconnects that use Canare LV-61S 75 ohm coax, with Canare RCAP connectors. (Digiflex is one maker.)

The connectors are precisely imedance matched for high quality 75 ohm coax. They sound exceptional.

$20 for a 3 ft length at a pro audio store.

[zachary80]

Thanks for the help so far

Any opinions on the Cambridge Audio 640C?
Sound Odyssey seems to have a good deal:
http://www.soundodyssey.com/Cambridge/640C.html

[lcrim]

Some months ago I was wondering what to do about a digital player for both my systems.  I also wanted to be able to play DVD video as well.  I couldn't afford a separate input pair of RCA's to either preamp so I neede solutions that covered me for CD and DVD playback.

I got a modded Toshiba 3950 for one of my systems.  Doug Jesse @ Reference Audio Mods did the mods.  It is in a system with a Decware Select SET amp which is very revealing of upstream equipment and it matches the performance of much more expensive one box solutions.  It is not the equal of really good high end PC based playback but then again a Lynx sound card lists around a thousand, last I looked.  The Tosh even w/ the mods and a decent pair of interconnects should be less than $400.  The player is quite smooth but has a bit of sibilence on some voices and because of the buffer does make a little noise but you must be very close or in a very quiet room to be bothered by it.
in my other system I bought a refurb Denon 2200 for under $300 and it has been a huge bargain.  I believe w/ a little shopping you can find its big brother the 2900 as a refurb  for around $550 since Denon came out w/ its new line.  If you can spring for it, thats a very nice player at that price.  That's what I would do right now.

[Jon L]

Some months ago I was wondering what to do about a digital player for both my systems.  I also wanted to be able to play DVD video as well.  I couldn't afford a separate input pair of RCA's to either preamp so I neede solutions that covered me for CD and DVD playback.

I got a modded Toshiba 3950 for one of my systems.  Doug Jesse @ Reference Audio Mods did the mods.  It is in a system with a Decware Select SET amp which is very revealing of upstream equipment and it matches the performance of much more e ...

Off topic, but are you using the stock breakout cable for Lynx 2 card?  If not, what's your solution?  

I"m trying to figure out which output on the DB25 correlates with L and R channels, but no response from Lynx people yet..

[Hantra]

Off topic, but are you using the stock breakout cable for Lynx 2 card?  If not, what's your solution?  

I"m trying to figure out which output on the DB25 correlates with L and R channels, but no response from Lynx people yet..

Jon:

The PM I sent you last week has the pinouts.  Near the back in the appendix.  Each pin has a number from 1 to 25, and those would correlate to where you need to go on XLR's.

[Jon L]

Off topic, but are you using the stock breakout cable for Lynx 2 card?  If not, what's your solution?  

I"m trying to figure out which output on the DB25 correlates with L and R channels, but no response from Lynx people yet..

Jon:

The PM I sent you last week has the pinouts.  Near the back in the appendix.  Each pin has a number from 1 to 25, and those would correlate to where you need to go on XLR's.

Thanks for the previous link.  I bought the Supra DB25 plug and am going to make, for now, one set of output.  I just can't figure out which of the 3 sets of output to use and L and R info.  Could it be it doesn't matter b/c I can assign one set of main L and R to any one of those DB25 pins from Lynx software?  (PC arrives tomorrow)

[Hantra]

Thanks for the previous link.  I bought the Supra DB25 plug and am going to make, for now, one set of output.  I just can't figure out which of the 3 sets of output to use and L and R info.  Could it be it doesn't matter b/c I can assign one set of main L and R to any one of those DB25 pins from Lynx software?  (PC arrives tomorrow)

I didn't have a choice since I only have 2 outputs.  1 is left, 2 is right.  

I am so anxious to read your commentary on it!