[witchdoctor]

My L-R-C speakers are Paradigm Active Reference. The L and R are sitting on mapleshade stands and they are a little close to the wall. My sub is a little to the left of my R speaker in the photo. Anything I can place on the wall behind them and my sub to tame the bass?

[gregfisk]

Your'e a witch doctor,

Just make it sound better

Edit: one more thing, make your picture in focus.

[JLM]

Need more information:  Room size; Layout; and Room finishes/furnishings.  Is this part of a HT system? 

If you have active speakers (I loved the active Paradigms), what is all that gear for?

[witchdoctor]

Your'e a witch doctor,

Just make it sound better

Edit: one more thing, make your picture in focus.

[witchdoctor]

Need more information:  Room size; Layout; and Room finishes/furnishings.  Is this part of a HT system? 

If you have active speakers (I loved the active Paradigms), what is all that gear for?

I will get the details. As for the gear in my Auro 3D HT:

HTPC>Asus Xonar U7 soundcard>Marantz 7702 Processor on rack 1 on the left

Monster HTPS 7000 PLC and Carver AV 505 amp used to biamp my Paradigm Reference 20 wide channels on the second rack. The wide channels are the passive version of my other active speakers.

Paradigm Active 40 L-R-SS-RS
Paradigm Active CC
Paradigm Active 20 FH- RH
Paradigm Reference 20 wides
Paradigm Shift A2 VOG or top surround
Sunfire TSEQ 10 subwoofer
Mapleshade stands and platforms

[witchdoctor]

Having an all active home theater really saves $$$ when you use this many speakers plus you get the benefits of an active crossover. Each speaker is biamped with 150 watts for the mid woofers and 50 watts for the tweeter. I have a total of 12 active speakers and would have needed 24 channels of amplification to do this. Look at the space I needed just for one amp to biamp my wide channels!
It is true the flip side of the coin is each speaker needs a power cable but that is why they make power conditioners.

[JLM]

What's your acoustic issues?

I use GIK panels and find them highly effective (except in my room that follows the Cardas Golden Cuboid ratios and I listen near-field). 

[witchdoctor]

I find the bass sometimes to be a little boomy. I can control it by switching the crossover point with my processor but I think it is because my front channels are a little close to the wall. I was hoping there were panels I could place behind them sice I can't move them out from the wall. thanks

[JLM]

I use GIK 244 panels (originally called full range, now called bass absorbers) and DSPeaker Anti-Mode 2.0 Dual Core (to tweak).  Both/either should be effective to cut bass boom.

[witchdoctor]

I use GIK 244 panels (originally called full range, now called bass absorbers) and DSPeaker Anti-Mode 2.0 Dual Core (to tweak).  Both/either should be effective to cut bass boom.

Thanks, I'll get those panels, appreciate it!

[JWL.GIK]

Yes, you definitely want a bass trapping strategy in that room. Often, subwoofers benefit from a bass trap placed between them and nearby walls, but bass trapping is really about the room as a whole.

This will help you get started:

http://gikacoustics.com/the-basics-bass-traps-diffusion-panels/

[witchdoctor]

Yes, you definitely want a bass trapping strategy in that room. Often, subwoofers benefit from a bass trap placed between them and nearby walls, but bass trapping is really about the room as a whole.

This will help you get started:

http://gikacoustics.com/the-basics-bass-traps-diffusion-panels/

Thanks, I look forward to trying them.