Honda/Toyota of Mountain Bikes?

Doublej · « **on:** 12 Jul 2016, 12:19 pm »

Which mountain bikes brands would you consider to be the Honda/Toyota of mountain bikes? e.g. highly reliable and good value.

Giant, Trek, Specialized, Diamondback, other?

I need a new bike. My 1991? Bridgestone MB5 is getting long in the tooth and it's time for wider tires and front suspension. I am getting too old for New England surfaces on a rigid frame.

I ride a mix of road and gravel with an occasional trail thrown in for good measure.

FullRangeMan · « **Reply #1 on:** 12 Jul 2016, 12:33 pm »

None of these brands. Try Mt.Shasta Pachanga Comp $89 used, or old Klein or Ti Merlin.

syzygy · « **Reply #2 on:** 12 Jul 2016, 02:54 pm »

I still ride my '93 MB-2, but picked up a full sus bike a few years ago for the rough stuff. Keep checking CL, I have found bikes for friends and family that were basically as new and great values versus new. So many people apparently buy bikes and never use them. You have to be patient, however.

DaveC113 · « **Reply #3 on:** 12 Jul 2016, 04:00 pm »

Top brands right now are Giant, Trek, Yeti and Santa Cruz but lots of other good choices too.

Mt bikes today are amazing, you really can't go wrong with any of the major brands. I'd consider spending a bit more for full suspension, it's much easier on the body if you're on rough surfaces. Try both 27.5" and 29" wheel sizes, and maybe even the 27.5"+ wheel size.

DaveC113 · « **Reply #4 on:** 12 Jul 2016, 04:01 pm »

Quote from: FullRangeMan on 12 Jul 2016, 12:33 pm

None of these brands. Try Mt.Shasta Pachanga Comp $89 used, or old Klein or Ti Merlin.

Lol, aging yourself....

Mt bike technology has moved WAY past these kinds of bikes!

coke · « **Reply #5 on:** 12 Jul 2016, 04:14 pm »

What's your budget?

If you're buying new, just pick one of the brands your local shop carries so that you can quickly resolve any warranty issues.

For reliability, you probably want Deore or better level of shimano or x7 or better level for sram. Spending more provides slightly better performance, but mostly just saves weight.

Mechanical and hydraulic disc brakes can both be very reliable. Mechanical require slightly more maintenance since you have to adjust the cables as the pads wear. If you get a good bleed on hydraulic brakes, they can go for years without any maintenance other than pad changes.

For reliability and ease of maintenance, I prefer wheels with cartridge bearings.

Frame material isn't too important for reliability from the riding style you described. I own steel, aluminum, and carbon bikes, and rarely have any issues with the frames.

Cheap forks may be fine if you're mostly on the road or gravel. If you ride real singletrack though with roots and rocks, something like a rockshox Reba for example should work fine and be reliable without being too expensive.

Warning! Mountain biking can be just as addictive and expensive as audio equipment

I.Greyhound Fan · « **Reply #6 on:** 12 Jul 2016, 04:29 pm »

I agree with the previous poster. Go with what your local bike shop carries. You will want at minimum Shimano Acera derailleurs with Alivio and Deore just above that. Stay away from any bike with Shimano Tourney and Altus. If you don't really go off road, then consider a Hybrid bike (no suspension fork) which will have better gearing, be lighter weight and faster with less effort.

By the way, suspension forks do not increase comfort that much. Lower pressure tires will help more and get a nice seat, with a carbon fiber seat post ( about $40 from Bike Nashbar) or suspension seat post. Carbon fiber handlebars will also soak up some vibration (again about $30-45 online)

http://www.nashbar.com/bikes/SearchDisplay?catalogId=10052&storeId=10053&langId=-1&facet=mfName_ntk_cs%253ANashbar&metaData=&pageSize=&orderBy=&searchTerm=seatpost

https://www.amazon.com/s/?ie=UTF8&keywords=carbon+handlebar+mtb&tag=googhydr-20&index=sporting&hvadid=84880713758&hvpos=1o1&hvexid=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=761526438324937493&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=e&hvdev=c&ref=pd_sl_1mkgubpp1k_e

Steel frame bikes may offer a slightly more comfortable ride over stiff Aluminum but they will be heavier. I am not so sure (the material) it makes a difference in a MTN bike though.

If you do go with a MTN bike and want smoother tires for the road and light off road, consider getting these Serfas Drifter Tires that come in 1.5" and 2" diameter x26". I put them on my kids bikes and they have much less rolling resistance, require less pedal effort, are more comfortable and are fairly fast. They do ok in packed dirt. They have held up well with no flats.

http://www.google.com/shopping/product/11789186897740746156?lsf=seller:1209243,store:10221921161101348430&prds=oid:16665575052181120304&q=serfas+drifter&hl=en&ei=zBmFV97-M8fwjwOMrpFA&lsft=cm_mmc:cse_PLA_GOOG&lsft=gclid:CJPrjrCr7s0CFQ2QaQoddxEJfg

Folsom · « **Reply #7 on:** 12 Jul 2016, 04:58 pm »

To answer your question, there's no such thing. They all use Shimano or Sram parts. All the big names are pretty reptuble. The only thing I'd do is read reviews of particular frames if you're looking at scandium. There might be some bad rims out there. And you can choose more reliable spoke patterns.

You can choose better clip less pedals, but that's not a bike brand. That said, use Time pedals that aren't the cheap aluminium version. They don't break like egg beaters, and you can't pull out like with SPDs.

You could convert your air shocks to high grade Springs for reliability too. High grade springs are better performance than RoxShocks air system. I know it's ironic because low grade springs are crap, but the downside is that they aren't adjustable; which hasn't stopped serious users.

If you were talking reliability with specific parts for a single speed then there weeps be more to say; or fixed great road bike stuff.

charmerci · « **Reply #8 on:** 12 Jul 2016, 05:14 pm »

There's been a consolidation in the biking industry - outside of big box retailers' bikes, e.g. $99 Next, Huffy brands, etc. - it's pretty hard to buy a new, bad bike.

FullRangeMan · « **Reply #9 on:** 12 Jul 2016, 09:24 pm »

Quote from: DaveC113 on 12 Jul 2016, 04:01 pm

Lol, aging yourself.... Mt bike technology has moved WAY past these kinds of bikes!

Certainly they update but not Deore XT for $89.

Folsom · « **Reply #10 on:** 12 Jul 2016, 09:42 pm »

Quote from: FullRangeMan on 12 Jul 2016, 09:24 pm

Certainly they update but not Deore XT for $89.

Sorry but aside certain old frames, everything else feels sluggish on them. The cantilever brakes (in order of strength: V brakes are strongest, disc are best for all weather, and cantilevers only useful for clearing huge fenders), derailleur (correct sir), hubs (generally), crappy old free wheels on poorly located bearings, crappy bottom brackets (external or BB30 are the only thing that are worth a damn outside of track BB's), weak headsets, and such...

I've updated a few old MTB bikes that had worthy frames, turning them into an around town bike. For example a Trek 930 with the high grade platinum tubing, converted to single speed with a rigid fork. It was fine for around town but severally dated for about MTB use. Besides I wouldn't touch anything but a 29er unless I was doing full suspension then I'd go 650b. Well this is assuming my height, if I was like 5'6" or less I would be fine with 26er.

*Scotty* · « **Reply #11 on:** 12 Jul 2016, 10:03 pm »

Speaking as someone who moved on from a steel framed Diamond Back Accent EX MTB to a Klein Palomino V full susension bike with 100mm of travel, I can tell you that I find riding a full suspension bike much more enjoyable experience.
Having test ridden bikes with 150mm to 180mm of travel I now wish I sprung for a bike with at least 150mm of travel as the first 10 or 20mm of travel absorb the vibrations and small bumps found on rough roads much more effectively than a bike with only 100mm of suspension travel.
Scotty

DaveC113 · « **Reply #12 on:** 12 Jul 2016, 10:07 pm »

Quote from: *Scotty* on 12 Jul 2016, 10:03 pm

Speaking as someone who moved on from a steel framed Diamond Back Accent EX MTB to a Klein Palomino V full susension bike with 100mm of travel, I can tell you that I find riding a full suspension bike much more enjoyable experience.
Having test ridden bikes with 150mm to 180mm of travel I now wish I sprung for a bike with at least 150mm of travel as the first 10 or 20mm of travel absorb the vibrations and small bumps found on rough roads much more effectively than a bike with only 100mm of suspension travel.
Scotty

Yup... IMO Enduro race bikes are the pinnacle of mtb right now. Trek Slash, Santa Cruz Nomad, Yeti SB6C, Giant Reign, etc... 30 lb bikes with 160mm travel that pedal/climb well and can still rail a world cup DH course.

charmerci · « **Reply #13 on:** 12 Jul 2016, 10:11 pm »

Quote from: Folsom on 12 Jul 2016, 09:42 pm

I've updated a few old MTB bikes that had worthy frames, turning them into an around town bike. For example a Trek 930 with the high grade platinum tubing, converted to single speed with a rigid fork.

Platinum tubing? The world's most expensive bike perhaps?

Folsom · « **Reply #14 on:** 12 Jul 2016, 10:29 pm »

http://www.rodbikes.com/articles/platinum.html

charmerci · « **Reply #15 on:** 12 Jul 2016, 10:43 pm »

Hmm - news to me! I only took a quick peek at the site - I assume the standard 3-4% mix. 6% would seem to be a bit more pricey.

drphoto · « **Reply #16 on:** 12 Jul 2016, 11:12 pm »

i used to ride a Cannonade Mt bike and liked it a lot. Trek is quite good too for sorta mass market I had a Trek road bike than I put thousands of miles on. If I were made of money, I always wanted a Lightspeed road bike.

I always wanted a Yeti Mt bike, but damn are they pricey.

I went and got old and don't ride anymore. :(0

Last time I was in a bike shop I was blown away by how good stuff is these days. But expensive. However, I spent a ton of money on after market bits back in the day, so I guess it all evens out.

I rented an early full suspension bike when I went to CA and rode Mt. Tam. and also at Kilington VT. I hit maybe 50 on the downhill. I dunno how the pro racers go 70 or so. I was bouncing around so much I could barely see.

My 'dale was originally full rigid but I put a Manitou front fork on it. Yeah.....back in the day it had a whopping 1/2" of travel. They're like what, 3" or so now??

I dunno if they're still made but I eventually put Ritchey clipless pedals on the 'dale. Outstanding. Way better than the Looks I had at first. The Ritcheys were super easy to clip in, and more important, easy to disengage.

Among other upgrades I got a super narrow racing saddle. Way easier to slide back when going down steep slopes.

Best of luck.

srb · « **Reply #17 on:** 12 Jul 2016, 11:16 pm »

I don't think there's actually any platinum metal in True Temper OX Platinum (?), I think it's just the name they gave to that series of premium heat-treated air-hardened tubing (like Reynolds 853).

True Temper announced earlier this year that they would be discontinuing manufacturing of bicycle tubing to concentrate on their golf club shaft core business (despite relative success and praise).

Steve

Folsom · « **Reply #18 on:** 12 Jul 2016, 11:39 pm »

Steve are you trying to tell me they're giving the cycling community the shaft?

DaveC113 · « **Reply #19 on:** 12 Jul 2016, 11:54 pm »

Quote from: srb on 12 Jul 2016, 11:16 pm

I don't think there's actually any platinum metal in True Temper OX Platinum (?), I think it's just the name they gave to that series of premium heat-treated air-hardened tubing (like Reynolds 853).

True Temper announced earlier this year that they would be discontinuing manufacturing of bicycle tubing to concentrate on their golf club shaft core business (despite relative success and praise).

Steve

TT has fallen way behind the times anyways... Alum bikes all have hydroformed tubing these days and frames are moving towards carbon fiber, in fact some bikes are not even available in aluminum anymore at all. The quality of CF has been improving by leaps and bounds and is now about the same cost to manufacture vs aluminum.

drphoto, downhill bikes have 8-10" of travel.

I don't think most pro dh courses allow speeds of 70 mph by design, 50 is close to tops maybe a bit more here or there... and 50 mph on a mt bike on rough/rocky terrain is scary!