[titaniumheads]

I will try a few things tonight. I dont have REW but I have omni-mic. I have 2 traps on the front wall, one on the back corner and one corner is open to a closet. They are GIK tri-traps with diffuser plates. The reason I am thinking its the room is before I had the VMPS/RMX speakers and 2 additional HSU 15" subs and still had little bass.

[mlundy57]

I will try a few things tonight. I dont have REW but I have omni-mic. I have 2 traps on the front wall, one on the back corner and one corner is open to a closet. They are GIK tri-traps with diffuser plates. The reason I am thinking its the room is before I had the VMPS/RMX speakers and 2 additional HSU 15" subs and still had little bass.

That and the fact you had a lot of bass in the garage.

[Captainhemo]

You could try removing some , or  all, of the traps  and see what happens.
You  could also try  moving the speakers around  to see if makes any diference.  furniture can also    cause issues.... it all  becomes part of the  equation


jay

[Captainhemo]

I posted some final pics of the  finished Super 7's over   here:
https://www.audiocircle.com/index.php?topic=159096.msg1751308#msg1751308

This  is the original prototype  pair so  wanted  to keep   them in that  thread  for people interested in   building a  paor  can see the results.

jay

[SteveKi]

Bringing things back on topic.  In my quest to remove ALL non-copper parts from the signal path and replace them with better quality copper parts, I've gotten one of the last major pieces removed and replaced - the RESISTORS in the crossover. 

Buh-bye Mills M-Resist Supreme (a nice resistor, actually) and HELLO Path Audio copper resistor:

Tyson,
Can you post a close up of your crossover and list all of your upgrades.
TIA,
Steve

[Tyson]

Tyson,
Can you post a close up of your crossover and list all of your upgrades.
TIA,
Steve

Sure thing - here's a recent pic of the now-crazy amount of copper I have in the Super 7s:




Wiring is all VH Audio UP-OCC foamed teflon hookup wire.  My previous reference wire was the Neotech UP-OCC w/solid teflon.  The VH stuff is decisively better, IME.

Tweeter 10uf cap is Jupiter copper now, midrange 15uf is Jupiter copper now, the inductors are all Jantzen copper film and wax dielectric, the resistor is a copper Path Audio. 

The only non-copper parts are the film caps I used to replace the 56uF Erse cap that was originally in there.  I would love to put copper there to but that's horribly expensive and I'm not sure it would be a huge improvement since it's not directly in the signal path.  Maybe if I win the lottery one day, we'll find out....

[titaniumheads]

I would like to thank Tyson for being the one that convinced me to purchase the super 7 kit. After reading his RMAF reports over the years and saying he didnt  hear anything he could replace his Super 7s with I was a bit skeptical.  Who knows if this will get me off the speaker merry go round but these are by far the best speakers I have owned. It took me a while with an audio buddy to get them set up properly but now they are simply amazing to me. Too be able to hear textured bass is a luxury I didnt have before. Everything Tyson has said about the speakers is true.

[RoadTripper]

Any observations about a break-in period? How many hours do you have on them?

[titaniumheads]

I only have about 3 hours on them so I cant say much about break in period. Did you get yours finished?

[Captainhemo]

Any observations about a break-in period? How many hours do you have on them?

That's really  going to depend upon the components used in  your  networks.   Typically,  you'll notice the biggest  changes  during the  first  100 or so  hours.  some caps  are  going to take  signifigantly  longer  to fully  settle in  but  changes will get  more  and more subtle  as  time    adds up.

jay

[Tyson]

I would like to thank Tyson for being the one that convinced me to purchase the super 7 kit. After reading his RMAF reports over the years and saying he didnt  hear anything he could replace his Super 7s with I was a bit skeptical.  Who knows if this will get me off the speaker merry go round but these are by far the best speakers I have owned. It took me a while with an audio buddy to get them set up properly but now they are simply amazing to me. Too be able to hear textured bass is a luxury I didnt have before. Everything Tyson has said about the speakers is true.

I'm glad I didn't oversell them, lol!!  But seriously it's hard to grok just how good these speakers are until you have them in your room and you sit there, mouth agape, going through recording after recording and the clarity, beauty, detail and musical engagement is just off the charts. 

[Wind Chaser]

Sure thing - here's a recent pic of the now-crazy amount of copper I have in the Super 7s:

Do you have any more pictures? Front and side views in the room would be nice. 

[RoadTripper]

Mine are done also. I have probably 10 hours on them. So my statement system is complete (for now). They are très bien. I am open for others' plate amp dials. I am using Jay's phase setting of 17 clicks back from 180.

[Danny Richie]

Someone earlier inquired about removing the LCR network from the Neo 10's.

I was building out Mike Lee's center channel and while testing it I decided to drop out the LCR network to show what happens.



Yeah, removing that circuit would hump up the response in the vocal region and make them very forward and in your face. Not recommended.

But with it in there that baby sure is smooth.

[Tyson]

Hey Danny, I noticed someone earlier in the thread had replaced their Erse 56uf caps with 2 smaller 27uf caps in parallel.  Will that cause problems?  Cause 27x2 =  54 uf not 56uf.  Should they add an extra 2uf cap in parallel in order to get to the full 56 uf value?

[Danny Richie]

Hey Danny, I noticed someone earlier in the thread had replaced their Erse 56uf caps with 2 smaller 27uf caps in parallel.  Will that cause problems?  Cause 27x2 =  54 uf not 56uf.  Should they add an extra 2uf cap in parallel in order to get to the full 56 uf value?

In a notch filter like that it isn't going to shift things around too much.

[Tyson]

In a notch filter like that it isn't going to shift things around too much.

What about having 2 of the 27 uF caps and bypassing them with a .47uf cap?  That would get closer to the 56uf value, or is .47 too large for a bypass in this position?

Or, put another way - what's the rule of thumb for bypass caps?  No more than 10% of the main cap value?  Or 5%?  Or 1%?  I know at a certain point you run into phase issues if you make them too big, but I'm not sure that point is.

[Danny Richie]

What about having 2 of the 27 uF caps and bypassing them with a .47uf cap?  That would get closer to the 56uf value, or is .47 too large for a bypass in this position?

Or, put another way - what's the rule of thumb for bypass caps?  No more than 10% of the main cap value?  Or 5%?  Or 1%?  I know at a certain point you run into phase issues if you make them too big, but I'm not sure that point is.

I really don't think you'd notice that much between the 56 and a 54 value in that position.

Rule of thumb in by-passing (for me) is that about a .1uF or smaller moves the phase shift that it creates to at or above 20kHz. Even a .22uF value pushes it up pretty high. At some point it may become audible for some people if it starts getting bigger. Even still, you probably couldn't put your finger on the difference you hear without an A/B comparison.

[Tyson]

That helps a lot, thanks Danny!

[Captainhemo]

Holy crap,,  the  rest of my household is gone  for  a  few days so...  it is  official    S7   "through their paces"  night....    wow.  New  gear   ( portotypes)   but    lots of  fun and  pretty  dam  loud....  will try  and post  some  pics    later 

jay