[Rocket_Ronny]

Tyson. I have not followed the cap talk. What would you call bliss. Are these caps a significant increase in sound? Thanks

Rocket Ronny

[Tyson]

Tyson. I have not followed the cap talk. What would you call bliss. Are these caps a significant increase in sound? Thanks

Rocket Ronny

They are as good as the Jupiter Copper/Wax/Paper/Foil caps for a lot less money.  Maybe even better than the Jupiters. 

For example the Jupither 10uF cap is $500, the MiFlex is $350. 

Only thing I like better about the Jupiters is they offer 12uF, 13uF and 15uF values while the Miflex top out at 10.  So personally I'd use the Miflex for anything up to 10uF and the Jupiters only for stuff over 10uF. 

BUT, I should also add, that if you don't have the $$ for these ridiculous caps, that using Sonicap Gen 1 for your 10uf and 15uf caps and bypassing them with 0.1uF Jupiter or MiFlex caps will get you 85% of the way there, from an ultimate quality standpoint. 

[jeffreybehr]

It will take about 500 hours for those caps to fully burn in.  But once they do, bliss!

More like an hour in my experience.

[Tyson]

More like an hour in my experience.

Yes, what's remarkable about the Super 7's is how they just get better and better and better as you put better parts in them, or use better upstream equipment with them.  So far, the 7's have never been the bottleneck in my system.  Looking around at what else is out there, I'm guessing they never will be.

[jeffreybehr]

Have had over a dozen fellow audiofools, most from our audio club, to my house over many days the last couple weeks, in small groups. 


The sounds of the system was universally praised, with many calling it the best of mine they've ever heard and some the best they've ever heard.

Have installed this week a PS Audio P20 2000VA power regenerator.


The system sounds even better now.                   

Still haven't installed the Miflex KPCU copper-foil caps in the crossovers.   

[emailtim]

....  Still haven't installed the Miflex KPCU copper-foil caps in the crossovers.   

[jeffreybehr]

Well, been sort of busy with a bunch of audio-club visitors over four days and then installing and siting a new PS Audio P20 power regenerator.

[bernardo]

Here is something that Super-7 owners may want to check - tightness of the mounting screws on the Neo-10 and Neo-3 drivers. I found that all of them needed to be tightened to some degree. I did not torque them beyond barely finger tight. In my case it was obvious that the screws were not tight enough – I would have stopped if they were snug when initially checked. The impact on image focus and overall detail and clarity is amazing. I checked the woofer mounting screws also but found most were already snug.

It may be something just applicable to my pair – they were shipped to Wisconsin to the first owner; then to me in North Carolina. I have spent a lot of time working with speaker position so they have been moved around quite a bit.

Anyway just wanted to share this in case you hadn’t thought of checking this – may take your speakers to another level if the screws are not snug.

[jeffreybehr]

Here is something that Super-7 owners may want to check - tightness of the mounting screws on the Neo-10 and Neo-3 drivers. I found that all of them needed to be tightened to some degree. I did not torque them beyond barely finger tight. In my case it was obvious that the screws were not tight enough – I would have stopped if they were snug when initially checked. The impact on image focus and overall detail and clarity is amazing. I checked the woofer mounting screws also but found most were already snug.

It may be something just applicable to my pair – they were shipped to Wisconsin to the first owner; then to me in North Carolina. I have spent a lot of time working with speaker position so they have been moved around quite a bit.

Anyway just wanted to share this in case you hadn’t thought of checking this – may take your speakers to another level if the screws are not snug.

Well, thank you very much Bernardo!  I'll check mine today.

[SoCalWJS]

Here is something that Super-7 owners may want to check - tightness of the mounting screws on the Neo-10 and Neo-3 drivers. I found that all of them needed to be tightened to some degree. I did not torque them beyond barely finger tight. In my case it was obvious that the screws were not tight enough – I would have stopped if they were snug when initially checked. The impact on image focus and overall detail and clarity is amazing. I checked the woofer mounting screws also but found most were already snug.

It may be something just applicable to my pair – they were shipped to Wisconsin to the first owner; then to me in North Carolina. I have spent a lot of time working with speaker position so they have been moved around quite a bit.

Anyway just wanted to share this in case you hadn’t thought of checking this – may take your speakers to another level if the screws are not snug.

Thanks for the reminder!

When I first got mine, I checked all of them and found several were loose, but I haven't re-checked since then. Probably a good idea to look at them again.

[mikeeastman]

I had the same thing happen ,I thought it was  do to the shipping.

[jeffreybehr]

Well, thank you very much Bernardo!  I'll check mine today.

I finally checked mine and found the '10s' screws required about one full turn and the '3's maybe a quarter turn.. I turned each screw NOT tight, fearing I'd strip the 'threads' in the MDF panel.

-------------------------------------------------

FWIW, I've decided to keep my 135-Watts-into-4 Atma-Sphere MA-1s and sell the 45-Watts-into-4 M60s*.. The M60s are current versions (3.3s) while the MA-1s are 'only' 3.1s, but I feel the MA-1s are more flexible with that higher power..  And since A-S OTL amps can operate well on fewer output tubes (OTs), in pairs of course, I removed all the Chinese OTs and then (for at least summers in the desert) installed and balanced each amp with only three pairs of Russian Winged-Cs.. Got to use all the stainless-steel damping blocks I've ordered for various amps.   



Am still using Tung-Sol oval-plate 'N7s in the V1 pair and BRIMAR CV-1988/6SN7GTY curved-plates in the other three positions.. The amps again sound glorious with the Super-7s.

BTW, the 3.3 versions of the MA-1** with the MOSFET-based Constant-Current Source adds that no-longer-used-as-a-CCS tube V3 to the pairs of V1s to make three 'N7s in parallel for the first Voltage-gain stage.

* As much as I LOVE the Super-7s, I still fantazize about having a pair of Revel Ultima2 Salon2s.. That fantasy was renewed by my reading Larry Greenhill's rereview of them in the current issue of 'Stereophile'.. Oh well...I suppose if my pairs of Quad 2905s, Atma-Sphere M60s, and Vienna Acoustics Mahlers, and a Butler TDB 5150 poweramp and BPT balanced-power p-con were SOLD, I could afford them.                

** and any other A-S OTL amps with five frontend tubes, I suppose, but I'm not familiar with the MA-2 and -3.
.

[Tyson]

Now that there's more Super 7 kits being sold/built, I'm surprised we don't have more activity on this thread.

[mlundy57]

Now that there's more Super 7 kits being sold/built, I'm surprised we don't have more activity on this thread.

Some of us are still saving up for the drivers and crossover. I may get my monitors done in time to be a Christmas present to myself. 

Mike

[Captainhemo]

Hopefully  soon Tyson,   have shipped out    a number  of  pairs    and then built one here.  I know some are close to being     reday  to play tunes.
I've  got  some  comments  coming   soon,   trying to get  my  grills done before  I post  final   pics/impressions  etc but   always seem to be working on something  else.. not  complaining,  just    saying  why   I've been delayed.

I  am  enjoying them  though  !!

jay

[AKLegal]

I'm slowly building mine out.  I haven't decided if I am going to paint the sides before gluing them up or paint them afterwards.  Right now I am just making sure I don't make any silly mistakes like failing to install the magnets before gluing everything up. lol  Also, I do most of my work outside and the weather in Georgia has not been particularly cooperative over the past 2 weeks or so.

Part of my problem is that I have a pair of the NX-Ottica monitors so I am not in a big rush to get the Super 7s done.  These things sound amazing.

[Early B.]

I'm slowly building mine out.

We demand build pics!

[titaniumheads]

I just had mine painted. Not sure when I will get to assembling them.

[Tyson]

I just had mine painted. Not sure when I will get to assembling them.

Beautiful!  Trust me, assembly is a snap.  Just make sure to install your woofers before you put on the NoRez.  And you might want to drill some holes in the top platform to route your hookup wire through, from the bottom of the speaker up to the top platform.  Use short screws for the midpanels, if they are too long they can punch through the back of the baffle which you don't want. 

Other than that, they just sort of snap together, super easy. 

[Captainhemo]

I just had mine painted. Not sure when I will get to assembling them.

Looks great  man   

I've been asked this a couple times so  here's a heads up for others assembling these,   use the gaskets behind the Neo10's,.  The recesses were cut  to accomadate them.  You'll need to trim a little rectangle out of each gasket  to fit around the terminals as there is only  room for a thin strip of the gasket to get by them not the   full gasket width.  I just used  a  razor blade to make 2 little  cuts then  bent the piece up and sliced it off .

Also, use the pre-installed gaskets on the front face of the  GR Neo3's.  finally, don't forget   to install the  yarn/wool in the 2 outer  rows on the front of the  Neo3

Like Tyson  says, a small hole in the top of the sub section right near the  rear of the baffle is great for passing c/o wiring up.  I was going to pre-drillthese for everyone but  wasn't sure  everyone would  want to   go that  route so   we omited them.  I actually  placed mine  right in spot where they come up through the c/o board.
for the Neo10 mounting screws .5 to .625"   will be fine.  I actually  threaded  each  of the  Neo10 mounting  screw holes  (think I used  M4 machine screws) so  I was able to get  some nice  allen / hex drive  screws
jay