OB H-Frame / A370PEQ / HX800 amp Box Flat Packs / Finished Cabs

Danny Richie · « **Reply #280 on:** 20 Nov 2017, 02:45 pm »

Dang David, your setup looks nice. Nice diffusors too.

Delta77 · « **Reply #281 on:** 20 Nov 2017, 04:27 pm »

I like it too.. Really Nice , How long have you been into Home Audio..??

Captainhemo · « **Reply #282 on:** 20 Nov 2017, 04:57 pm »

David !! Was starting to get worried about you !!
So glad to see youi've got the subs up and running . System looks super dude

Enjoy

jay

david45 · « **Reply #283 on:** 20 Nov 2017, 05:32 pm »

Quote from: Danny Richie on 20 Nov 2017, 02:45 pm

Dang David, your setup looks nice. Nice diffusors too.

Thanks Danny! One nice thing is that I can easily move the ones in the middle when occasionally watching movies. I can store them away and the process takes about 30 seconds. I treated the left wall with 4 absorption panels as per your suggestion.

david45 · « **Reply #284 on:** 20 Nov 2017, 05:38 pm »

Quote from: Delta77 on 20 Nov 2017, 04:27 pm

I like it too.. Really Nice , How long have you been into Home Audio..??

Thank you Delta77 I appreciate your comment.

A little over 20 years on and off but the only experience I had with open-baffles in my system was a pair of Magnepan SMGa back in the days. My audio journey all started when I was 16 and decided to buy vintage equipment rather than visiting the usual stores...a nice MC240 tube amp and a pair of Kef 104/2 speakers for the equivalent of US1500$

david45 · « **Reply #285 on:** 20 Nov 2017, 05:46 pm »

Quote from: Captainhemo on 20 Nov 2017, 04:57 pm

David !! Was starting to get worried about you !!
So glad to see youi've got the subs up and running . System looks super dude
Enjoy

jay

Jay!! Thank you so much for bearing with me and investing so much time in my project. I would recommend your flat packs to just about anyone! Especially when fully assembled/finished haha

mlundy57 · « **Reply #286 on:** 20 Nov 2017, 06:18 pm »

David,

Those look great! Glad you got them up and running. Now for the fun

When you are ready to install the No-Rez, if the insides are slick and shiny, be sure to scuff them otherwise the No-Rez won't stay stuck.

Mike

Captainhemo · « **Reply #287 on:** 20 Nov 2017, 06:29 pm »

Quote from: mlundy57 on 20 Nov 2017, 06:18 pm

When you are ready to install the No-Rez, if the insides are slick and shiny, be sure to scuff them otherwise the No-Rez won't stay stuck.

Mike

Mike, that no -rez will not come off that paint... it grabs it unbelievably well As long as it's clean, no dust, it will not come off.

jay

mlundy57 · « **Reply #288 on:** 20 Nov 2017, 08:04 pm »

Jay,

I've had it come unstuck when applied over a smooth topcoat so I scuff sand with 320 or 400 grit.

Mike

Captainhemo · « **Reply #289 on:** 20 Nov 2017, 08:20 pm »

Quote from: mlundy57 on 20 Nov 2017, 08:04 pm

Jay,

I've had it come unstuck when applied over a smooth topcoat so I scuff sand with 320 or 400 grit.

Mike

gotcha, maybe it's the type of finish ? No issues with this high quality automotive clear coat... the self adhesive of the no-rez grabs it and even if you don't press it, it's damned hard to get off. I've stuck no-rez to quite a few different finishes and so far, this clear seems to be what it likes best.

jay

mlundy57 · « **Reply #290 on:** 20 Nov 2017, 08:26 pm »

Quote from: Captainhemo on 20 Nov 2017, 08:20 pm

gotcha, maybe it's the type of finish ? No issues with this high quality automotive clear coat... the self adhesive of the no-rez grabs it and even if you don't press it, it's damned hard to get off. I've stuck no-rez to quite a few different finishes and so far, this clear seems to be what it likes best.

jay

Quite possibly. I use finishes designed for furniture.

Mike

HAL · « **Reply #291 on:** 20 Nov 2017, 09:40 pm »

The modular 2x12 H-Frame flat packs from Jay are here. Danny sent 4 - SW-12-16FR and will be here tomorrow. The HX300's, connectors and cabling are here.

Time for some gluing and installing during the holidays!

Captainhemo · « **Reply #292 on:** 3 Dec 2017, 12:00 am »

Finally got busy and glued up another set of amp boxes. Wrapped them in the leftover Applewood (Tineo)

these will be sprayed in flat lacquer to match another set of Applewood subs we have here..

jay

Captainhemo · « **Reply #293 on:** 14 Dec 2017, 01:00 am »

Here's a few pics after some low sheen lacquer ( I like the look of this on wood) and fitting an amp.

Now this pair of Applewood "demo" fianlly have their matching amp boxes

jay

Kazoom · « **Reply #294 on:** 17 Dec 2017, 11:28 pm »

Hi all,

Very inspiring and most impressive work here.

I am a newbie about to pull the trigger on this project but still tying up some loose ends in my head as I formulate my plan.

Regarding the materials:

Now that you are using the 5/4 Medex, do you notice any kind of sonic improvement or degradation over the glued 2 x 3/4 MDF sheets approach in your non modular design?
Anyone have arguments for or against using Richlite for the baffle or even the whole H Frame? Price might be a negative for the whole H Frame, but would it improve sound as a baffle?
Finally I am a 3 sub per cabinet kind of guy on a 2 sub per cabinet budget. Would it make sense to build a cabinet for 3 subs with the intent to add the third sub later, or would this just be adding an extra unused chamber to resonate until it is properly fitted with the 3rd sub?

Thanks,

-Dan

Captainhemo · « **Reply #295 on:** 21 Dec 2017, 08:59 pm »

Quote from: Kazoom on 17 Dec 2017, 11:28 pm

Hi all,

Very inspiring and most impressive work here.

I am a newbie about to pull the trigger on this project but still tying up some loose ends in my head as I formulate my plan.

Regarding the materials:
Now that you are using the 5/4 Medex, do you notice any kind of sonic improvement or degradation over the glued 2 x 3/4 MDF sheets approach in your non modular design?
Anyone have arguments for or against using Richlite for the baffle or even the whole H Frame? Price might be a negative for the whole H Frame, but would it improve sound as a baffle?
Finally I am a 3 sub per cabinet kind of guy on a 2 sub per cabinet budget. Would it make sense to build a cabinet for 3 subs with the intent to add the third sub later, or would this just be adding an extra unused chamber to resonate until it is properly fitted with the 3rd sub?

Thanks,

-Dan

Hey Dan
With our kits (both modular and non-modular) we use a 1" bafle, it's actually a bit over kill but it does eliminate the issue of the screws poking through the rear roundover. ( I like to use the radius on the backside even with subs)
There is such little baffle in each "chamber" that a different material is unlikely to change the sonics... resonense here is not an issue.

Our non-modualr kits use 1.5" MDF not a pair of laminated .75" sheets. I did build a couple pairs early on using the laminated sheets.... pretty hard to say if there is any difference.
I have not noticed any difference in sound between the 1.5" MDF and the 1.25" Medex... but the 1.25" Medex is denser, resists moisture better, and seems to be more durable ( less likely to ding a corner etc). We recently sent Danny some prototypes of a different cabinet, I think he was surprised at the difference between the two matials.

If you built the subs in a modular fashion, you cold build them as duals then add a 3rd section when the time came. If you definitly plan to migrate to triples at some point, be sure you order the SW12-16FR's, the 8 ohm versions will not work for triples.

I also recommend you use the no-rez in your subs... when you are going with a set of subs at this level, just do them right ... right from the beginning.

HTH's

jay

Kazoom · « **Reply #296 on:** 22 Dec 2017, 08:42 pm »

Thanks Jay,

Overkill is AOK in my book.

Sounds like MEDEX is the way to go. All my research said it was very easy to work with and better than standard MDF, so I am glad to hear that it performs better too.

No-Rez was always in the plan. When we are talking about a $2k plus project, doing them right is the only option.

I was not able to find a price on the modular flat packs, is it the same as the non modular prices posted at the beginning of this thread?

Thanks again Jay!

-Dan

Captainhemo · « **Reply #297 on:** 22 Dec 2017, 11:19 pm »

Quote from: Kazoom on 22 Dec 2017, 08:42 pm

Thanks Jay,

Overkill is AOK in my book.

Sounds like MEDEX is the way to go. All my research said it was very easy to work with and better than standard MDF, so I am glad to hear that it performs better too.

No-Rez was always in the plan. When we are talking about a $2k plus project, doing them right is the only option.

I was not able to find a price on the modular flat packs, is it the same as the non modular prices posted at the beginning of this thread?

Thanks again Jay!

-Dan

Dan
Prices for the modular subs wil be $150 / module whichwill include the bases ad tops for each tower (so for example, a set of duals is $600, hardware is included)., . We'll be going to a single sized base/top on the next run.. I do need some lead time on these right now ( I've got 4 modules but no tops/bases for the towers. No grill frames are programmed yet but we may be able to accomade them. amp boxes are as priced on the first page of the thread..

jay

Fernando M · « **Reply #298 on:** 27 Dec 2017, 07:14 pm »

Jay,

I am interested in a pair of open baffle subs. I have a few questions about the flat pack, could you send me a private email?

Thanks,
Fernando

richidoo · « **Reply #299 on:** 27 Dec 2017, 08:36 pm »

Fernando, Welcome to AudioCircle!

I think you need 3 posts before you can use PM system.

You can post in any topic.