[mlundy57]

If you increase the height of the H-Frames by 4" they would be too tall to use as stands for OB monitors like the MTM version of the NX-Otica.

If you don't intend to use the H-Frames as monitor stands than you can add another cavity under the bottom woofer for the amp. This is what I'm doing with my current H-Frame build for 8" drivers. With 12" drivers the height of the cavity only needs to match the width of the amp. This way there is no need to bend the amp.

[mirekti]

If you increase the height of the H-Frames by 4" they would be too tall to use as stands for OB monitors like the MTM version of the NX-Otica.

Then it could work for W frame 12" and all 8" options

This is what I'm doing with my current H-Frame build for 8" drivers.

This sounds interesting. Do you have any photos to share at this time?

[jimbones]

I want to build H Frames with the plate amp in a drawer on the bottom. You are saying that it would add too much height. I hate to have it one the floor in another box. How does the W frame compare. I'd like to XO about 300hz. Danny said the H frame goes up to 300hz. Not sure about the W Frame.

[bdp24]

I want to build H Frames with the plate amp in a drawer on the bottom. You are saying that it would add too much height. I hate to have it one the floor in another box. How does the W frame compare. I'd like to XO about 300hz. Danny said the H frame goes up to 300hz. Not sure about the W Frame.

I've done some thinking about this subject, and came up with this idea: attach a couple strips of 3/4" MDF (like maybe 1" to 1-1/2" wide) to run horizontally across the back of the H-frame (or W-frame), spaced so that the top and bottom of the plate amp can be bolted or screwed to the strips. The amp placement would be constrained only by the depth of the amps power transformer, which is about 4" I believe. If so desired, a pair of vertical strips could be glued on and run between the horizontal strips, and the long sides of the amp bolted or screwed to them. Unless the strips and the amp would acoustically "load" the H- or W-frame and/or driver, I don't think the mounting of the plate amp to the frame would create a problem. But Danny may provide the definitive answer to that question.

I believe that 300Hz figure is the same for a W-frame as for an H. The cavity resonant frequency of both W and H frames is about the same.

[Captainhemo]

Can't recall what thread it was but,   I believe  there was  discussion about  the amps and mounting them to the cabinets.... IIRC , although  not a definite "no'no"  (conventional subs  mostly have  the amps mounbted to the enclosure),  I think the concensus was that it was probably wise to  house the amps serparately  away from vibrations
When I built my first pair of dual h-frames,  I had planned to   just have the amps site on top of the cabinets ( little feet on  amp boxes) but after reading that thread,  i decided to   keep them totally separate. 

jay

[bdp24]

Can't recall what thread it was but,   I believe  there was  discussion about  the amps and mounting them to the cabinets.... IIRC , although  not a definite "no'no"  (conventional subs  mostly have  the amps mounbted to the enclosure),  I think the concensus was that it was probably wise to  house the amps serparately  away from vibrations
When I built my first pair of dual h-frames,  I had planned to   just have the amps site on top of the cabinets ( little feet on  amp boxes) but after reading that thread,  i decided to   keep them totally separate. 

jay

Having the amps in separate boxes doesn't create much of a problem---they can sit right behind the frames, out of harms way.

[mirekti]

Having the amps in separate boxes doesn't create much of a problem---they can sit right behind the frames, out of harms way.

This is a personal view. Obviously they do create a problem (to some), otherwise there would be no discussion about it.

[mlundy57]

On the first pair of H-Frames I built I made the plinths long enough to the backside of the H-Frame for the amp boxes to mount to the plinth. This put them far enough away from the drivers so they didn't interfeer with the sound but kept them attached to the cabinets.

As for 8" options, there are no more 8" drivers available and the last I heard from Danny is there won't be any more. They didn't sell well enough to justify the cost.

I also wouldn't expect Rythmik to redesign the amps for a smaller form factor. I can't imagine how much the up front R&D costs would be for something like that.

Mike

[mirekti]

I guess if the amp is flipped horizontally, cooling fins inside and controls close to the rear it might work on W frame.

[bdp24]

This is a personal view. Obviously they do create a problem (to some), otherwise there would be no discussion about it.

That's why I above shared the idea I came up with of mounting the plate amp to the back of the frame. The OP hasn't yet built a pair of W-frames, and his concern about the amps may be more in anticipation of a problem than a realized one at this point. I didn't think my reassuring him it wouldn't create much of a problem for him in actual use would require defending; I was obviously mistaken!

[jimbones]

Here we go, 6 coats of  satin lacquer  and  they really do pop












That Tineo is georgeous!! A bit pricey. But I really Like it. Wonderful Job. I can only hope that mine will come out half as nice.


Just need to glue the magnets in the grill frames,  pack them  up ,    and ship them off

jay

[jimbones]

This is a personal view. Obviously they do create a problem (to some), otherwise there would be no discussion about it.

I like my listening room to be neat and clear of wires and tripping hazards. Just a personal thing. Not a big problem but it's not good for my OCD 

[mlundy57]

Since the OB subs have to be at least 3ft off the front wall and you want to meep the wires from the amp to the speaker as short as possible you can literaly set the amp boxes directly behind the speaker cabinet. That way the only wire you have is the one from your preamp or AVR, just like you would have if the amp was physicall built into the cabinet.

Since the amp would be sitting directly behind the cabinet you wouldn't see it from the front.

[bdp24]

Since the OB subs have to be at least 3ft off the front wall and you want to meep the wires from the amp to the speaker as short as possible you can literaly set the amp boxes directly behind the speaker cabinet. That way the only wire you have is the one from your preamp or AVR, just like you would have if the amp was physicall built into the cabinet.

Since the amp would be sitting directly behind the cabinet you wouldn't see it from the front.

Exactly my point as well. I wouldn't be surprised if everyone reading this has OCD to some degree; that's what lead us here !

[Captainhemo]

Thanks jimbones,   I  like it to and  was really happy at how close the match  withthe customers existing  speakers came out. It's not too badly priced when you compare it ot  other  veneers, yeah you can get   some stuff realitively cheap,  I'd  say the Tineo is moderately priced. One full book matched sheet with do a pair of dual H-frames  and a pair of  amp boxe.  Pretty much just trimmings left over.
Another thing worth noting  and  I belive this has been discussed previously as well,   there is a fairly large unbraced area in the  "v" of the  w-frame,  I think  guys have   glued a horzonatl brace  in this area to help . I'd think a piece of 1" dowel would  work breat but remember to be aware of psitioning, you have to be able to get the woofer in !!

Mike,   as I'm sure most do,  that  is exactly what  the fellow is doing withthese.  The amps will set directly behind the cabinets  with only a short lead out/in wire   The amp boxes are just shy of 13"  long so really  a guy could turn them sideways behing the  cabinet to save a bit more room  ( c couple inches) and they'd still be  hidden by the cabinets.  I personally  like keepingt them separate, don't   like introducing them to   more vibration than necessary.  That being said, I liked what you did  with that original pair yo ubuilt with the extended bases  for the amp boxes to sit on 

Eric, welcome to OCDC !  (ocd circle  )

jay

[jimbones]

I priced a 4x8 sheet of 3/4" rosewood veneered plywood. It was $700 from my local retailer. Can you recommend a source for Tineo? I would really like to do Reconstituted but they only have a few varieties available,  mostly boring stuff ha ha.

[mlundy57]

Oakwood Veneer Company out of Troy, MI

[Captainhemo]

Oakwood Veneer Company out of Troy, MI

Yup, that's where the stuff pictured above came from..
'm probably pointing out the obvious but you'll want to make your side panels at least  1.25" thick (personally I'd go with 1.5" ).   Even though the cabinets are  open,those woofers put a lot of preasure  on them.  Use No-Rez as well

jay

[jimbones]

Yup, that's where the stuff pictured above came from..
'm probably pointing out the obvious but you'll want to make your side panels at least  1.25" thick (personally I'd go with 1.5" ).   Even though the cabinets are  open,those woofers put a lot of preasure  on them.  Use No-Rez as well

jay

Yes I plan to do 1 1/2 with no rez. Plywood with veneer outside wall and MDF wall inside.

[jimbones]

Now that I look more closely it looks like the outside verticals are rounded?