[Captainhemo]

Now that I look more closely it looks like the outside verticals are rounded?

On the tineo pair pictured above, yes , the front  outside vertical edges are  rounedover.  Some guys want them this way, some don't,  this particular cutomer wanted  them rounded on the fron, not on the back to match his existing speakers.
If you go back  to page 5, post 86,  there is pair we sent to Ron at New Record Day  which  he finished  in hickory with no roundovers.

jay

[jimbones]

I guess if the amp is flipped horizontally, cooling fins inside and controls close to the rear it might work on W frame.

Mireti, I may building something like yours, W Frame with Amp in drawer on Bottom. I cleared it with Danny and he thinks I will be fine. Vibration and heat are of no concern. Yay! Lol.

[mirekti]

Mireti, I may building something like yours, W Frame with Amp in drawer on Bottom. I cleared it with Danny and he thinks I will be fine. Vibration and heat are of no concern. Yay! Lol.

Thank you Jim, but I was a little bit impatient and ordered two RELs T-Zero on Sunday. They should be delivered today.
I will see if these two will work for me, if not I will get back to you.
Also, I am quite sure there could be others who would like the amp inside, but not so sure about the drawer. I mean, something could rattle. Wouldn't a fixed double/tripple sized and cut out bottom for the amp be a better solution?

[jimbones]

I used the term "drawer" loosely (don't mind the pun) Of course I will have to build it like a Brick S House or such that there are no rattles. I don't think that will be too hard. You are right, it takes time. I happen to be in no rush. I am hoping to get this done by mid summer. That gives me a few  months. I have a local shop that will cut all the wood to spec so it will be delivered as a flat pack. I have a shop and can do it myself but I think it will go faster If I sub that out. I'll do the assembly. REL's are supposed to be good. I don't know how they compare to GR OB's. I was sold on the OB woofers.

[bdp24]

REL has a great reputation amongst advanced audiophiles, but they can't be considered in the same category as the OB/Dipole Sub. REL's, the Rythmik F12G, and other excellent sealed box subs are a completely different animal than the GR Research/Rythmik Open Baffle/Dipole Sub. Completely different in design, sound, and acoustic behavior, in the same way a Dipole speaker is completely different from a box speaker. Their dipole operation and figure-of-8 radiation pattern, where they need to be placed in the room, how they integrate with a loudspeaker, their maximum output capability, their lack of a resonant box, their characteristic sound--- "leaner", cleaner, etc. all different from any and all box subs, whether sealed or ported.

I liken the difference between box subs and the OB/Dipole as the difference between an acoustic/stand-up bass and an electric. The electric is rounder, fuller, fatter, the acoustic quicker, more snap and attack, less overhang and plumpness. The OB/Dipole is THE sub for ESL's, Magnetic-Planars, Ribbons, and other highly transparent loudspeakers.

[Captainhemo]

that sloped set of uals  I posted pics of   a while back is  finally  nearing the finish line.

Here's a couple shots of   them after  a few coats of epoxy and some block sanding




Our painter is busy so they've been in the shop for  quite some time but great results.  Here's one in the booth


Another before final polishing


Picked one up this afternoon and popped the grill in place




Had to use some little knobs  so the grills  could be easilly removed


Some good light to show the finish


Bably blue amp boxes



Now to  box and ship   

jay

[ebag4]

Very nice Jay!  What is the purpose of the epoxy on the raw MDF?  Is it used to seal the edges of the MDF?

Best,
Ed

[mlundy57]

Ed,

It does a very good job of both sealing the MDF so no seams will show through and it strenthens the MDF a lot.

Mike

[Captainhemo]

Ed,  just as Mike  said.  The epixy really  encapsulates the   MDF cabinet.
we rolled this stuff and then blocked it ,  in the futre, it will likely be sprayed  as our painter has been doing some of this.   

jay

[Folsom]

Looking good Captain.

Those amp boxes look like aluminum, at least on my cellphone. Cool idea.

[Captainhemo]

A coule more of the  Apple wood  subs. This is the pair that had some veneer issues   and we ended up keeping for  in home  demos.  They sat in Don's garage all winter, when we pulled them out, the lacquer had all cracked   
Went to work on them ,   sanded them down with a block,  re lacquered with a flat lacquer this time and fitted them out with  drivers, no-rez, and  grills.






jay


jay

[Jonathon Janusz]

For b-stock "demos", those apple wood look really nice!  That might be one of the first of these OB subs that I could easily mistake for being an ordinary boxed speaker with the grills on.  I like the grain on that veneer too, and I think that the satin finish adds to the "natural" look.  It should be really easy to blend those in with the rest of the furniture in a room. 

[bdp24]

A coule more of the  Apple wood  subs. This is the pair that had some veneer issues   and we ended up keeping for  in home  demos.  They sat in Don's garage all winter, when we pulled them out, the lacquer had all cracked   
Went to work on them ,   sanded them down with a block,  re lacquered with a flat lacquer this time and fitted them out with  drivers, no-rez, and  grills.






jay


jay

Fantastic Jay! With the inset grill, it really does look just like a bookshelf speaker from the 60's, such as the AR 3a.

[Captainhemo]

Ok,    some folks have been asking  about 6 stacks, a few  have asked about  singles (for running a single 12 on each side of a small room).....  so weve been working on a modular  design that can   work  out for basically any  number of woofer (singles, duals, triples, quads, or 6 stacks).  We saw something similar a year or so back when Rich built his  6 stacks. 

These are cut from  Medex,  1.25" side panels, 1" baffles, and .625"  top/bottom modle plates.  The  actual cabinet top/base will also be 1.25"  Medex.   Medex is a water/moisture resistant composite, it's classified as an MDF   but is slightly denser ,  approx 770 kg  m/3 vs 720 kg m/3 with standard MDF.  It is formaldahyde free 

I've got a couple modules cut as prototypes.   We went kind of  crazy with the dowels, there will not be  as many  with production   pieces.  Final units will have  2 dowels  for each joint vs the 4 we drilled  ( I only used 2 per joint in the pics below)

Baffles are 1"  thick.  They are pre-drilled for  woofer screws, have wiring pass thorough holes in  each corner to eliminate going up and down with wiring, ( forward facing baffles will not have the pass through holes),  and a .5"  roundover on the rear side .





Top/bottom module panels  are .625"  thick.  They've got   4  8mm bolt holes (one in each corner) for bolting modules together  (these are skinned over so the plates can be reversed at the very top/very bottom of a stack, no hole will be visible  at the very top/very bottom. The necessary ones will be  drilled out for bolts before shipping. 
There are  wiring pass throughs on the rear side of the baffle.
These plates inset .75" from front and rear edge of  side panels so  grills can be inset (options yet to be determined).. There's a  .125  reveal cut onthe  front/rear edge  to correspond with  next module..



Side panels are  1.25"  thick.  Each will   have  .5" roundovers on outer vertical  edges,  a  .125"  rouindover (reveal) on inner vertical edges and outer horzontal edges  to correspond with next modules.. Two dowels  will match each  top/bottom plate and  also  baffle edges.





Here's a sinle module from the rear side with the  .125"   reveal/rouindover cut around the top. Next module has   the same cut on bottom. There will also be  two vertical dowels in each  side panel (both top and bottom) for  locating subsequent modules and a base and top   on  each stack.



A pair with a mock  base and top (some left overs I had  lying around).   Actual  base/top will have   .5" rounded corners and  .5" round overs on  top  of base , the top.bottom of cabinet top.
NOTE: If  you're thinking of veneering a set of these, we can disucss  eliminating the ro's



A better look at the  reveal between  modules



Bolt holes were positoned so that after no rez is installed,  they'll disappear



As mentioned, pricing is not finalized, hopefully soon. We've got to determine yeilds,  source some fastners and there a couple little details we need to  finalize as well.  Likely these will ship  2 modules per box, maybe 1  when it includes a  cabinet top and base.
So , for those who have asked, they are coming soon

jay   (now to go through and fix all my   typos   )

[HAL]

Jay,
Looking good.

Never put the NoRez in mine as they are still raw MDF.  Will be cool to see a pair of 6x12's with finish on them when the modules are done.

Rich

[Captainhemo]

Hopefully soon Rich   

[Captainhemo]

After making a few  revisions to the  modular prototypes,  we cut a  run to build  a pair of 6 x 12 cabs..  a bit time consuming to asemble all these modules as I glued each up in  2  stages.

First I glue the top and bottom plate to the baffle. Each plate is  positioned with  2 dowels in the baffle/plate. You have to pay attention to the  wiring pass through holes in the plates.....  they need to be on the rear side of the baffle so  roundover side with forward facing woofers,  driver mouinting side with  rearward facing  woofers.
Forward facing  woofers use baffles with no wiring  pass through holes


Rearward  facing woofers use baffles with  wiring pass through holes


Apply  a nice layer of glue to the baffle, tap  in your  2 dowels until they lightly seat,  then  postion the  baffle on the  plate.


Do the same with the  opposite plate


Then you can fit the side panels (dry) for alignment, and clamp  the top  / bottom plates to  the baffle and let sit for a few hours. I use a clamp on  each side of the baffle (over the dowel holes in the plates) and add a an extra from side to side just to hold things  in place. You don't need  a ton of preasure, just tighten the claps until  everything  seats.... you'll feel it in the clamp when this  occurs.


Once  it's dry, yo ucan  remove the camps.  Lay the  module on one side, remove the  side panle, pull the dowels  and scrape off any  glue  that may have squised  out of the baffle / plate joints.   check the side  plate to make sure there is no glue there either.   Add  a layer of glue  to the  exposed edge of the bafle and  top/bottom plate. Tap in your  6 dowels until they are lightly seated.


Add your  side panel and flip the module over,  repeat the above for the opposite side panel. Again, clamp uo the  nmodule   from side to to side to squeeze the  side panels to the edges of the baffle and plates.   A clamp in  each of the 4 corners works well..   Thought i had snapped a picture of the clamp up but apprarently not 
I let the module sit over night all clamped up before moving on..
If you get  system going, you can have  a couple modules in  different stages glued up and sitting at the same time.

Each of the modlues is located onthe  previous one   with  4 dowels in the side panels and secured together with 4 bolts



I knew from Rich's (HAL's) pics that the 6 x 12 cabinets were but  once I assembled a set, I realized the pics did ot really portray just how big they are , oh my


Here's one with the  NX-Tremes these will be paired with


jay

[ebag4]

  WOW Jay, that a heck of a speaker system!!  Cool setup for the massive sub systems. 

Best,
Ed

[HAL]

Looking good Jay!   

[jimbones]

theyre so small