Here is some illustrations for you guys to show how easy the Level 1 Mod really is.
You have to un-solder the tweeter cap and pull it off the board. It's the small yellow one that is a 1.5uF value. One side is easy to get to. Un-solder it first. Then use a box cutting knife or an exact-o knife to cut through a little of the adhesive holding it down. Put it up and stand it up on its end and then you can get the other side un-soldered pretty easily.
Next, un-solder the the leads on the 22 ohm resistor and just fold them to the side so that they are out of the way. Don't bother pulling it off the board. It is glued on too well and it doesn't hurt anything to just leave it there.
Now take a very small drill bit and drill out the solder holes so that you have a fresh hole to slide the new parts in through.
Now twist the new .47uF Sonicap onto the new Mills 20 ohm resister as seen here. Solder them together and solder them into the spot where the old resistor was mounted.
Then flip it over and solder in the new 1.5uF Sonicap into the same spot as the old 1.5uF cap. Be careful not to let your soldering gun touch the small inductor next to it.
It should now look like this:
Lastly, run a little line of hot glue across the parts to help hold them all down.
This will lift the tweeter level just a little bit, it will lift up the rolled off top end, and improve clarity all across the tweeters range.
It is a pretty simple upgrade for the average hobbyist. If you are not a hobbyist and aren't interested in un-soldering and soldering on new parts then send me your crossover and I'll put the new parts on for you and send them back ready to go. $10 plus the shipping cost is the least I can charge for dong this. It really doesn't cover my time very well, but I am making a little on the parts cost.
The rest of this mod is installing the No Rez in the cabinets. This will do away with the cabinet resonances, tighten up the bass response, and clean up the vocal region.
Again the level 1 mod is only $76.