[gregfisk]

Are any of these companies still in business?  Just curious, for the record.

lowtech... more like lowlife

[RDavidson]

Most people have absolutely zero clue as to how hard it is to successfully bring a product of virtually any kind to market, let alone maintain long term success.

Unfortunately, people who are ignorant also tend to lack respect.

[jcotner]

I have no plans to do any more completed speakers though. It's too much to stock and warehouse for me. And right now I just don't have the space for it. I already have six containers full of product that I pull orders from every day. That's enough for now. And completed speakers take up a lot more room.

Yeah guess I should of said something along the line of "kit with flat pack".
That might be significant now that Christie has killed the BG drivers and it
seems the N1 (at this price point) is not a viable speaker at the moment.
Does this make any sense, or is the modified B6 maybe a N1 replacement.

[Danny Richie]

Yeah guess I should of said something along the line of "kit with flat pack".
That might be significant now that Christie has killed the BG drivers and it
seems the N1 (at this price point) is not a viable speaker at the moment.
Does this make any sense, or is the modified B6 maybe a N1 replacement.

I still have a lot of high end kits available. Visit our website.

[drewm]

Yeah guess I should of said something along the line of "kit with flat pack".
That might be significant now that Christie has killed the BG drivers and it
seems the N1 (at this price point) is not a viable speaker at the moment.
Does this make any sense, or is the modified B6 maybe a N1 replacement.

I know Danny doesn't want to come out and say it because it's probably rude to directly compare one's own products against a competitor, but I'd imagine it's okay if someone like myself does. Having heard the x-ls encore, owning the x-statik/x-voce, and an Elac B5 I've been playing with for the last week, I'd probably guess that the modified B6 is closer to a stock x-ls encore, or possibly even the x-ls. Any of the N-series are significantly higher end.

I can say in stock form, the Elac B5 is a bit disappointing as the treble rolloff is pretty noticeable. I know Tyson from this site also mentioned the treble rolloff in his RMAF review of that room. I do know design-wise they probably aimed for that to keep untreated rooms from becoming too treble fatiguing, so in the end it's what you're looking for.

I know from the impressive re-design work done by Danny in this thread, I've definitely been following the right speaker designer for the past 6 years.

[gregfisk]

I know Danny doesn't want to come out and say it because it's probably rude to directly compare one's own products against a competitor, but I'd imagine it's okay if someone like myself does. Having heard the x-ls encore, owning the x-statik/x-voce, and an Elac B5 I've been playing with for the last week, I'd probably guess that the modified B6 is closer to a stock x-ls encore, or possibly even the x-ls. Any of the N-series are significantly higher end.

I can say in stock form, the Elac B5 is a bit disappointing as the treble rolloff is pretty noticeable. I know Tyson from this site also mentioned the treble rolloff in his RMAF review of that room. I do know design-wise they probably aimed for that to keep untreated rooms from becoming too treble fatiguing, so in the end it's what you're looking for.

I know from the impressive re-design work done by Danny in this thread, I've definitely been following the right speaker designer for the past 6 years.

While I'm sure Danny appreciates the praise and it is well deserved, I don't think you can compare a DIY speaker (which is what they ended up having to be) to a mass produced one designed for a much larger market and for a profit margin written in stone. Nor should you imply somehow that one designer is better than the other which you seem to be doing. I own a pair of Danny's Super V's and they are fantastic to my ears so this isn't my point. Andrew obviously has gotten to where he is today because he is at the top of the game in his field. These speakers we are talking about are at the bottom of the market in price and an incredible value for the money spent. Andrew is also a first class human being from what I have heard and read from him and it is a real treat to have him participate in another speaker designers forum in such a humble and dignified manner. I for one have the utmost respect for Andrew as you don't get to where he is without being good at all aspects of the industry not just a good speaker designer. Thank you Andrew for participating in this forum, it has been extremely informative so far and you have explained your reasons for what you have done very well. I look forward to more informative dialogue and hearing your current and future creations in the near future, keep up the good work.

 Greg

[cliffy]

Thank you Andrew for participating in this forum, it has been extremely informative so far and you have explained your reasons for what you have done very well. I look forward to more informative dialogue and hearing your current and future creations in the near future, keep up the good work.

 Greg

+1

[mlundy57]

+1

+2

Mike

[JLG440]

I agree totally with you Greg.

[DaveC113]

Thanks for commenting AndrewJ, and I also appreciate answering questions about my new Pioneer S-1EX at RMAF. They are amazing. 

[Panelhead]

  After reading Andrew's comment on the mods it is clear why he is successful. The Debut line was designed to match the electronics of the targeted buyer.
  I purchased a pair of B6 to support Elac. And will watch for the next line. They will be marketed and designed for a higher price point.

[drewm]

While I'm sure Danny appreciates the praise and it is well deserved, I don't think you can compare a DIY speaker (which is what they ended up having to be) to a mass produced one designed for a much larger market and for a profit margin written in stone. Nor should you imply somehow that one designer is better than the other which you seem to be doing. I own a pair of Danny's Super V's and they are fantastic to my ears so this isn't my point. Andrew obviously has gotten to where he is today because he is at the top of the game in his field. These speakers we are talking about are at the bottom of the market in price and an incredible value for the money spent. Andrew is also a first class human being from what I have heard and read from him and it is a real treat to have him participate in another speaker designers forum in such a humble and dignified manner. I for one have the utmost respect for Andrew as you don't get to where he is without being good at all aspects of the industry not just a good speaker designer. Thank you Andrew for participating in this forum, it has been extremely informative so far and you have explained your reasons for what you have done very well. I look forward to more informative dialogue and hearing your current and future creations in the near future, keep up the good work.

 Greg

The x-ls wasn't a DIY speaker until AV123 folded. I was referring to the AV123 x-ls completed speaker which sold for $219 a pair MSRP back when AV123 was around. They AV123 x-ls encore completed speaker pair sold for $329 a pair MSRP.

[Danny Richie]

Here is some illustrations for you guys to show how easy the Level 1 Mod really is.

You have to un-solder the tweeter cap and pull it off the board. It's the small yellow one that is a 1.5uF value. One side is easy to get to. Un-solder it first. Then use a box cutting knife or an exact-o knife to cut through a little of the adhesive holding it down. Put it up and stand it up on its end and then you can get the other side un-soldered pretty easily.

Next, un-solder the the leads on the 22 ohm resistor and just fold them to the side so that they are out of the way. Don't bother pulling it off the board. It is glued on too well and it doesn't hurt anything to just leave it there.



Now take a very small drill bit and drill out the solder holes so that you have a fresh hole to slide the new parts in through.

Now twist the new .47uF Sonicap onto the new Mills 20 ohm resister as seen here. Solder them together and solder them into the spot where the old resistor was mounted.



Then flip it over and solder in the new 1.5uF Sonicap into the same spot as the old 1.5uF cap. Be careful not to let your soldering gun touch the small inductor next to it.



It should now look like this:



Lastly, run a little line of hot glue across the parts to help hold them all down.



This will lift the tweeter level just a little bit, it will lift up the rolled off top end, and improve clarity all across the tweeters range.

It is a pretty simple upgrade for the average hobbyist. If you are not a hobbyist and aren't interested in un-soldering and soldering on new parts then send me your crossover and I'll put the new parts on for you and send them back ready to go. $10 plus the shipping cost   is the least I can charge for dong this. It really doesn't cover my time very well, but I am making a little on the parts cost.

The rest of this mod is installing the No Rez in the cabinets. This will do away with the cabinet resonances, tighten up the bass response, and clean up the vocal region.

Again the level 1 mod is only $76.

[Kishore]

Hi Danny,

A suggestion- you should make this above post come below your first post. Great offering for 'modders' 

regards,
Kishore

[Danny Richie]

Hi Danny,

A suggestion- you should make this above post come below your first post. Great offering for 'modders' 

regards,
Kishore

That's a pretty good idea. I think I'll copy it into the top post.

Thanks,

[Danny Richie]

I just finished up the level 2 mod and figured I'd post some pics of it.

Here is the all new crossover.



For those of you that ordered this upgrade please see the way the parts are laid out.





The tube connectors installed easily. I also added a jumper from the tube connectors down to the old binding posts so that either or can be used. What I like about this is that it allows you to A/B the difference between the connectors so that you can hear how much difference the tube connectors make.



And here is how it looks with them installed.



And here is a shot of the crossovers installed and the cabinets lined with No Rez.



I also laid in just a little bit of fiberglass insulation on the back wall and over the crossover.



They are now together and burning in. I'll give listening impressions in a few days.

[Oscillate]

I was thinking that some black (or whatever matches the baffle color) construction
paper cut out in a figure '8' to match the driver cutouts on the inside and the old
plastic beauty ring cutouts on the outside might help with the aesthetics? If air
leaks because of this would be of concern, then perhaps some rubber cement
between the paper and the baffle could be used to form a good seal ...and easily
removable. Just thinking outloud

[S Clark]

I was thinking that some black (or whatever matches the baffle color) construction
paper cut out in a figure '8' to match the driver cutouts on the inside and the old
plastic beauty ring cutouts on the outside might help with the aesthetics? If air
leaks because of this would be of concern, then perhaps some rubber cement
between the paper and the baffle could be used to form a good seal ...and easily
removable. Just thinking outloud

I could see a cutout of a contrasting color of leather looking really good.   Felt would work.. sonically probably better and definitely cheaper.

[JLG440]

Hello Danny, I have a question, to be able to execute this upgrade I have to measure the drivers by myself?

[Panelhead1]

  The level 2 mod looks very professional. The tube connectors finish it off.