[hansdejong]

Hello,

I just recently bought a Well Tempered Classic in fairly good condition. The three slabs of the plinth are somewhat misaligned, which I understand is a relatively common issue with this type of spinner, but technically it seems to be working ok. The tonearm on the other hand seems to have been dismantled as some stage, since the metal rod which runs through the two sliding bars in the arm attachment, is missing. This rod holds the sliding bars level in the horizontal plane, while allowing the bars to slide closer to, of further away from each other to alter the anti skating compensation. The threaded wire that operates the sliding motion of the bars is still there, luckily. Can anyone tell me if this specific item is still available as spare part, or can I using something as a substitute? If so, I would like to know the exact dimensions of the piece.

Furthermore, I need to mount the cartridge, which doesn't look like an easy job for starters, but is made even more difficult since I cannot detect any kind of color coding on the tonearm leads....is there a (simple) way to figure out which leg on the cartridge matches which tonearm lead?

Hints and tips are very welcome, any help is much appreciated. Really looking forward to using this wonderful player!
Thanks, Hans

[mgsboedmisodpc2]

HANS look at the diagram and indicate the missing part number on the arm as shown on the diagram

[hansdejong]

Hi,
thanks, the diagram does make things a little easier to explain. The missing part number should be 36.

[mgsboedmisodpc2]

Post some pictures if you can HANS of your turntable.

[hansdejong]

I'll try to post some pictures later today. Thanks.

[sunnydaze]

Furthermore, I need to mount the cartridge, which doesn't look like an easy job for starters, but is made even more difficult since I cannot detect any kind of color coding on the tonearm leads....is there a (simple) way to figure out which leg on the cartridge matches which tonearm lead?

I don't know your table that well, but doesn't it have female RCA connectors (R and L) on the plinth rear for output to the preamp? 

If so, it's pretty easy....
Run a continuity check with your voltmeter:

(1)    on the R output, put one probe inside the hole.  This is the positive.  With the other probe, touch all the tiny wires that attach to cart pins.  When you get continuity (usually a beep on the voltmeter), that lead is the R pos.

(2)    on R output, put one probe on round outside edge.  This is the negative.  With the other probe, touch all the tiny wires that attach to cart pins.  When you get continuity, that lead is the R neg.

(3)  do same two steps on L output.

Now all 4 leads are known.  Attach them to cartridge pins, which are usually color coded, or labelled as R+, R-, L+, L-

traditional color coding is:

red = R+
green = R-
white = L+
blue = L-

[hansdejong]

Below are some images of my WT. You can clearly see the hole in the grey aluminum(?) bar through which the supporting rod should run.

[hansdejong]

I don't know your table that well, but doesn't it have female RCA connectors (R and L) on the plinth rear for output to the preamp? 

Correct, it has RCA connectors on the plinth. Thanks, very useful! I will give it a try!

[sunnydaze]

About the voltmeter,  I forgot to mention........

If continuous,  the display will flash some numbers, and beep.

If discontinuous, the display will show "OL"  (open line), and no beeping.

[mgsboedmisodpc2]

clean looking hansdejong and you can align the three layers of the plinth with your fingers lying the table sideways and pushing down.  Did you bubble level the table yet?  The missing piece might not be critical.  And zoom in on those wire leads showing the condition.

[mgsboedmisodpc2]

Do I see fluid in the cup and what fluid did you use for the bearing?

[hansdejong]

Thanks, I will post a detailed picture of the tonearm leads later. Yes, the cup has fluid in it, I believe this is the standard fluid that was used by WT. I didn't fill the bearing and cup myself - both were filled when I bought the player.

The missing piece might not be critical.

Hmmm, I'm afraid it does have a crucial purpose - the grey aluminum bars to which the arm/paddle construction is connected with the fishing line, keeps lowering (with the threaded wire for anti-skating corrrection as a pivot point), allowing the paddle to sink way to deep in the damping fluid and altering the tonearm height.

[SteveFord]

You're probably going to want those two aluminum bars pushed all the way together, not separated. 
You should be able to go to a hardware store and get a metal dowel of the correct diameter and cut it to fit.

[mgsboedmisodpc2]

hansdejong if you are in need of another WT arm here is one on ebay and it has the missing part you showed your arm is missing
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Well-Tempered-Labs-Turntable-Tonearm-/231756833560?hash=item35f5c8a318:g:RZgAAOSwstxVWkVP