[Odal3]

Need to get a water heater quickly, and hoping to get some pointers where to look.

The water heater is 17+ years and starting to show signs of age so I have been thinking of replacing it before it goes bust. This all of a sudden has become a priority - not because it is broken but...

I mentioned to my wife that I have started to think it's time to update our HT system, and instead of the "hmm - I don't know", I got, "that sounds like a great idea, just make sure that you take care of the water heater first". So I'm sure you'll understand the urgency 

Are the ones you can find at Home Depot good enough or is it better to look elsewhere? Will only stay in the house for a few more years so I don't want to get anything too expensive. The current one is gas with 50 gal tank.

[MtnHam]

Hot water heaters today are expensive-$400-600, regardless where you buy them. HD carries HW heaters made by GE, probably as good or better than most. As a landlord, I have replaced many. Fairly easy to install yourself if you're handy, expensive if you have  hire a plumber over a weekend.

[Odal3]

Thanks for the info. They quoted about $300 for installation plus minus extras. Don't have the skills or time to do it. What takes an installer an hour or two would take me a week 

[macrojack]

It doesn't appear that you have much to think about. Since you aren't interested in the long term or in energy saving options, just get it done as cheaply as possible. For something less than $1000 you make your wife happy, eliminate a nagging concern and open the doorway to audio upgrades. Just do it.

Better safe than sorry.

[JLM]

What do yo mean by "showing signs of age"? 

In 30 years of home ownership I've only had one start to leak (A. O. Smith, right after the 5 year warrantee expired).  If "the signs" aren't pointing towards imminent failure I suggest you do some homework.  Obviously the simplest solution is to replace with in-kind (same size/style).


But do you need a 50 gallon? 

That's the size for a larger family/3+ bathroom 3,000 s.f. house. Faster recovery models (typically natural gas or propane) can provide just as much hot water with smaller tanks that can have a quick payback.  On demand water heaters are becoming more popular due to being much more efficient but are more expensive, can suffer from lime build-up if you have hard water, and would probably require an expensive installation.  Point of use on demand water heaters are the most efficient and provide instant hot water, but rarely seen in the U.S.  In new construction they save the cost of running hot water piping.  Any increase in efficiency could add to the resale value of your home.


Natural gas, propane, or electric?

Making a change would add to the installation cost/time, but consider that propane cost twice as much as natural gas (per BTU) and cost more up front than electric.  Electric has no flue (where a great deal of energy is wasted) so it can be competitive with propane.   Solutions for cutting down on the flue heat loss are troublesome and/or expensive.  Early designs used a bi-metal flap that would flex closed as it cooled, but they rusted (and stopped flexing) either in the open position (becoming useless) or closed position (allowing dangerous carbon monoxide to accumulate in the house).  The next solution was a relay/motor controlled flap, but when that failed the modern water heater will simply not operate (to avoid the carbon monoxide danger).  Either way heat is constantly escaping from around the opening at the top of the heater (note how hot the vent is versus the tank).  Nowadays to go along with high efficiency furnaces vented water heaters can be equipped with an expensive power vent that provides a sealed venting system to minimize waste heat (but requires a fan to operate whenever the heater runs).

[mikeeastman]

What are the signs of aging. If its not leaking it might just need to be flushed out, also if electric you can replace the heating elements fairly easily.

[Odal3]

Some days it's hot and other days not. I beleive it has bad sediment build up, which I guess can be flushed out, but a while back it sounded like someone was throwing golf balls around inside of it. Yes, I thought about flushing it out but don't know how to do it by myself. There also seems to be more ash at the top of heater

[Don_S]

Be very wary of Home Depot (and other flat rate) installation estimates.  My neighbor had an electric water heater installed by an HD contractor.  Quote from HD was $295.  Actual installed price was $195 higher.  This was an electric water heater.  The chance of a gas heater "needing" new parts is higher.

I saw the final bill.  The contractor charged $55 installed for a new shutoff valve.  I priced the valve at just over $5 at HD. That was years ago so the valve price would be much more now. The contractor charged $20 for two short pieces of 2x4 used to space the tank away from the wall when earthquake straps (a required code upgrade) were installed.  I do not remember how much they charged for the straps.

I checked with HD about getting an electric water heater installed and the clerk showed me the contract and said earthquake straps were included.  The contract reads something like "to be supplied by the installer".  The clerk interpreted that as meaning they were included. My interpretation is more correct.  You have to purchase them from the installer at an outrageous price if you do not have straps on the old heater.  If straps are already present then they are moved to new one at no charge.

Not every location requires EQ straps.  I am just using that as an example of how prices get bumped.

I got an estimate from Sears one time for the installation of an electric water heater.  It was around $300.  I asked the salesman if anyone ever got one installed for $300.  He hung his head and shook it in sad conspiracy.
 
Start saying bye-bye to your new HT system.

[Atlplasma]

Some days it's hot and other days not. I beleive it has bad sediment build up, which I guess can be flushed out, but a while back it sounded like someone was throwing golf balls around inside of it. Yes, I thought about flushing it out but don't know how to do it by myself. There also seems to be more ash at the top of heater

Is an expansion tank mounted on the outlet side of your water heater?

[mikeeastman]

To flush it out you just need a garden hose, there should be a spigot on the bottom front of the heater, connect hose to spigot, run hose out side, turn heater and cold water in off, open spigot, after tank is empty turn cold in on for minute to flush the rest out. The ash on top of the heater indicates the burner is not burning clean, after you drain heater and its cooled down take the cover on the bottom front off ( should be right above the spigot) and vacuum out the burner area with is probably full of dust and a few dead insect.

[richidoo]

This site teaches how to maintain a water heater. I found it very informative.
http://www.waterheaterrescue.com/index.html

You did well to get 17 years out of it!

The sacrificial anode size determines the lifespan of WH. Once the anode dissolved away, the tank starts corroding and rusting. Most WHs come with small anodes and short warranty, but can be easily upgraded with larger anode, which is the only difference vs 20yr warranty tank. I got a huge 5/8" thick 4 foot long zinc anode from amazon for $60. My old tank and the new tank both came with 2 foot long 1/2" aluminum anodes, with 6yr warranties. I found that the calcium deposition is high when the anode is spent, but it is completely stopped with a large fresh, well grounded anode. ymmv

If you have no leaks and no rust then you might be able to just replace the anode, flush it and keep it going. If there is a lot of calcium when you flush, then, imo, your anode is spent and the steel is corroding, but doesn't mean it's about to fail.

Another upgrade I did to my new tank was install a bronze ballcock valve with hose thread outlet to replace the stock plastic drain valve. It lets faster flow of water for better flush and it won't break. Can stick a screw driver all the way through it if necessary, to clear any calcium blockage. Hopefully won't need that.

I bought new WH from Lowes and it's great quality. American Water Heater company, I think. They make many other brands too. Good value. My two teenage sons and I installed it in one long day. We saved about $600. Enough to replace the old dishwasher a couple months later... 
Rich

[MtnHam]

I should have asked in my previous post if it was gas or electric. My estimate for the cost was based on the  assumption it was natural gas. Electric HWH's are usually less. And yes, the suggestion about anodes is correct.

[jtwrace]

Never knew about the anode rod.  Something else to dick around with.      Ignorance is bliss sometimes.   

[mcgsxr]

I'd bet that one "surprise" added expense in replacing an older WH will be bringing the exit vent piping up to code for a gas unit.

I bet you can guess how I know!   

We replaced ours (I rent, don't shoot me!) and had to pay only to have the plastic vent pipes brought up to current code.

[Wind Chaser]

That's interesting Mark, when did the building code change?

[mcgsxr]

Unsure when the code changed.  My original unit was 17 years old.  I replaced it 2 years ago.  Current code specifies 636 PVC pipe.  I think the previous unit used black ABS to vent.  Might just have been a shoddy job with the original install, but when my furnace was replaced 3 years ago, the used the same white 636 PVC.

[Don_S]

Unsure when the code changed.  My original unit was 17 years old.  I replaced it 2 years ago.  Current code specifies 636 PVC pipe.  I think the previous unit used black ABS to vent.  Might just have been a shoddy job with the original install, but when my furnace was replaced 3 years ago, the used the same white 636 PVC.

Are you talking about the burner flue for the furnace?  I always installed double-walled galvanized pipe.  But that was in a different era--like Jurassic. 

[avta]

I ran into a similar problem about 5 yrs ago. We lived in Central California. I bought a new gas water heater and was told by the installer that current code required a larger exhaust vent. This meant that the opening in the ceiling that led to the exhaust exit pipe had to be enlarged and the surrounding insulating plate had to be replaced as well. Since the exhaust was not directly above the water heater the connecting vent that ran about 5 ft required different support since it was larger in diameter and heavier. Well all that hit the budget pretty hard!

[Quiet Earth]

The water heater is 17+ years
The current one is gas with 50 gal tank.

That water heater is not worth flushing out or fixing IMO. You got your money's worth out of it. If you are not sure about installing a new one yourself, or don't know the latest code, safety measures with gas, etc., you will save money in the long run by hiring a qualified plumber to put one in for you. Make sure your installation professional understands that you have to fill out a permit and get it inspected when it is done. You said that you are moving in five years right? You will be glad that you did it right when it is time to sell your house.

I just went through all of this myself about 6 months ago. I was lucky to be standing in the garage when the bottom of the water heater cracked open. I spent about 4 or 5 hundred more dollars than my DIY neighbors but my new water heater looks very clean, safe, and has a signed permit to boot. I didn't have to pick up or haul off anything. It took two guys about 6 hours to get the job done and they do it all the time. I felt like it was money well spent.

Just my 2cents. Good luck and don't wait too long. That's a time bomb waiting to go off. (Better safe than sorry.)

[avta]

I agree with QuietEarth. Money well spent. The additional point about having it pass an inspection if requested when you sell is also important. That's exactly what happened when we sold our house. One less thing to worry about.